BMW Z4 M Brake Cooling Kit

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by dre99gsx

How is that plastic going to survive the front rotor heat? I melt bushings up there... Will this handle enduro races or just 2 lap time attack sprints?

Side note - I have brake cooling on my z4 and ended up blocking the cooling due to overcooling on long straightaways. Perhaps you should incorporate some sort of blocking adapter especially for the front.

Otherwise, cool project.

If you're melting bushings I'm sure you're not overcooling the brakes, if the brakes don't bite enough with brake cooling maybe you're running the wrong compound for your setup? The plastic on the backing plates are PC (Polycarbonate) and they handle the heat just fine on my heavy M2 as well during 20 minute sessions. I've sold these kinds of kits to many platforms during the years and it works fine,. There's been some hiccups naturally but I've learnt, improved and replaced free of charge in those cases. The restriction in the front is the hose itself, even if the duct in the front bumper is big.

Thanks!

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by F360C

I would be interested in this... I was actually just looking at this last night after I finished the install of your front brake cooling ducts. I would imagine the rears would only need a 2 inch line since they dont seem to get as hot as the fronts.

The other part I was looking at 3D printing is some sort of side roundel replacement that could be used as a duct to draw hot air out of the engine bay. I know a guy made a one off set of these back in the day. This could be a really cool part and applies to all Z4's... not specific to M's or none M's.

Funny enough I was thinking of the same exact thing when looking at my recent aero upgrades. My only concern is that it would look rather unfinished to have a giant hole on the side of the car. I recall v3.2mc doing something similar and it didn't look bad because he was able to retrofit the X5 M side marker.

I dislike 99% of ACS products, especially this one. But I think color matching the sills (or better yet a version without the sills) would make it way less of an eyesore. Then add ducting and you're good to go.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

Funny enough I was thinking of the same exact thing when looking at my recent aero upgrades. My only concern is that it would look rather unfinished to have a giant hole on the side of the car. I recall v3.2mc doing something similar and it didn't look bad because he was able to retrofit the X5 M side marker.

I dislike 99% of ACS products, especially this one. But I think color matching the sills (or better yet a version without the sills) would make it way less of an eyesore. Then add ducting and you're good to go.

That looks like a tough nut to crack! But I like the idea.

[dre99gsx]

Originally Posted by Westersund

If you're melting bushings I'm sure you're not overcooling the brakes, if the brakes don't bite enough with brake cooling maybe you're running the wrong compound for your setup? The plastic on the backing plates are PC (Polycarbonate) and they handle the heat just fine on my heavy M2 as well during 20 minute sessions. I've sold these kinds of kits to many platforms during the years and it works fine,. There's been some hiccups naturally but I've learnt, improved and replaced free of charge in those cases. The restriction in the front is the hose itself, even if the duct in the front bumper is big.

Thanks!

I was melting front arm bushings (the passenger side) due to the hot exhaust. That's been resolved by going uni-balls. That had nothing to do with brakes.

I did extensive testing on braking, pad selection, temperature measurement, and my pads are correctly getting to temperature, and not any hotter than the pad temperature curves from the MFG recommended. In my case, I have hard evidence where blocking the cooling ducts improved brake feel and consistency. I went from having poor braking after long high speed straights to more consistent braking by blocking them.

Still, I don't see how those will hold up mounted right onto the back of the front rotor covers. PC's glass point is 147C ? I would probably consider some newer materials like carbon PC to reduce warpage.

I don't know of any serious racer running anything but metal ducting (or carbon fiber?) in those areas. That stuff melts or warps and it could ruin your race.

I have an entire thread on here on my brake issues and conclusions regarding knockback and such.

Attached an image of my current setup. 3" hose, simple 3" pipe adapter behind the caliper shield, rivited. Was a $5 affair, and has held up to abuse.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by dre99gsx

I was melting front arm bushings (the passenger side) due to the hot exhaust. That's been resolved by going uni-balls. That had nothing to do with brakes.

I did extensive testing on braking, pad selection, temperature measurement, and my pads are correctly getting to temperature, and not any hotter than the pad temperature curves from the MFG recommended. In my case, I have hard evidence where blocking the cooling ducts improved brake feel and consistency. I went from having poor braking after long high speed straights to more consistent braking by blocking them.

Still, I don't see how those will hold up mounted right onto the back of the front rotor covers. PC's glass point is 147C ? I would probably consider some newer materials like carbon PC to reduce warpage.

I don't know of any serious racer running anything but metal ducting (or carbon fiber?) in those areas. That stuff melts or warps and it could ruin your race.

I have an entire thread on here on my brake issues and conclusions regarding knockback and such.

Attached an image of my current setup. 3" hose, simple 3" pipe adapter behind the caliper shield, rivited. Was a $5 affair, and has held up to abuse.

It comes down to design and material thickness not only glass transition temperature, but for those willing to pay extra I've printed parts in PA6-CF/GF to get even greater heat resistance. I've done a lot of R&D and I know it works or I wouldn't be selling anything. And I'd have quite a bit of refunding to do.

If blocking your brake cooling ducts have helped with consistency I'd say you're running a pad that's very high in the temperature range and reaches below it's range at the end of a straight. It's not uncommon for racecars to have variable sized intakes for the brake cooling depending on track and conditions to not over cool the brakes and get inconsistent brake modulation.

[dre99gsx]

Originally Posted by Westersund

It comes down to design and material thickness not only glass transition temperature, but for those willing to pay extra I've printed parts in PA6-CF/GF to get even greater heat resistance. I've done a lot of R&D and I know it works or I wouldn't be selling anything. And I'd have quite a bit of refunding to do.

If blocking your brake cooling ducts have helped with consistency I'd say you're running a pad that's very high in the temperature range and reaches below it's range at the end of a straight. It's not uncommon for racecars to have variable sized intakes for the brake cooling depending on track and conditions to not over cool the brakes and get inconsistent brake modulation.

Well unfortunately I can't change pads for each different track I visit, so the easier option is to block cooling as needed. I have some technical tracks where I do unblock the inlets. I reach almost 175mph on some of these straights btw! This is why having an easy way to block with your inlets would be cool. It's easy for me to add tape on what I run, but since you're designing it out right, that would be a neat feature.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by dre99gsx

Well unfortunately I can't change pads for each different track I visit, so the easier option is to block cooling as needed. I have some technical tracks where I do unblock the inlets. I reach almost 175mph on some of these straights btw! This is why having an easy way to block with your inlets would be cool. It's easy for me to add tape on what I run, but since you're designing it out right, that would be a neat feature.

I'll give it some thought. Not many sold kits for the Z4 M the last year so I'm not sure it's worth investing time in re-doing the design. Forgot to mention that all my parts are 100% "solid" (as solid as 3D-printed parts can be) so that adds to the sturdiness.

[Westersund]

I will be developing a new rear kit shortly that will be easier to install and it will be Z4 M specific. Only 3D-printed parts, no metal parts.

[Westersund]

As promised I have updated the rear kit now that I have a 3D-scanner. This kit is bespoke to the Z4 M/E46 M3 (the only difference is the V-brace air intake). The old rear kit will still be available is someone prefer that. The new air intake on the V-brace only extends 26 mm from the bottom of the V-brace. This kit will cost the same as the older kit, 250$, and everything but hose and hose clamps are included. As always, if you buy a front and rear kit at the same time you will get 50$ discount on the rear kit. An installation guide will be available shortly.

As I mentioned the V-brace air intake only build 26 mm below the underside of the V-brace. The intake are printed in PETG and the backing plate ducts are printed in glasfiber re-inforced nylon (PA6-GF).










Included in the kit is a cutting template to make a (near) perfect window in the OE backing plate.


Installed with OE droop of the suspension which compresses the hose a lot, but it works.




Clearance between the duct/hose and the wheel (18x10" ET27) is about 20 mm so it is possible to run a wider wheel.




Here you can see that the ducts/hose is inside the contours of the rear trailing arm.


This is with the car on the ground, my car is about 25 mm lower in the rear than stock.

[Westersund]

At the bottom of the first post you can now find the installation guide for the new rear brake cooling kit.

[phibonez]

Hello. Im interested to get this kit. Front and rear.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by phibonez

Hello. Im interested to get this kit. Front and rear.

Sent you a PM.

[Westersund]

Perfect time to order your winter upgrades!

[Westersund]

The new Race version is now done with a single 3" inlet and protection for the ABS-sensor and ball joints. Another version with dual inlets/outlets (2x2.5") will be done both for the backing plate and front bumper.

[Westersund]

Some more pictures of the new Race backing plate with a few duct options.

The previously posted single 3" duct.


The same duct but in 2,5" which could be used with my universal caliper cooling bracket/duct along with the upcoming front bumper duct with dual 2,5" outlets.


A picture of my universal 2,5" caliper cooling bracket/duct.


And a picture of it installed (installs with the same bolts as the caliper = red arrows).


This a duct with dual 2,5" inlets which preferably should be paired with the upcoming front bumper duct with dual 2,5" outlets.


Lastly a picture of the ABS-sensor cover in relation to the hub/wheel bearing.

[3002 tii]

How much for the newer design front kit, backing plates + funnel only?

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by 3002 tii

How much for the newer design front kit, backing plates + funnel only?

The Race backing plates only (funnels included) will be 200$ and with the universal caliper cooling ducts 270$, just like I've done on the F-series.

[Westersund]

Here's the new front Race backing plates. Will be available in single 2,5", dual 2,5" and single 3".











And here's the new front Race kit. Will be available in single 2,5", dual 2,5" and single 3".

[Westersund]

Track season is around the corner!