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      09-05-2012, 08:43 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Caddyshk View Post
Inspection I has fluids too. Plugs Inspection II. Valve inspection and adjustment both.

I stand corrected. I'm sure I have an earlier schedule where Transmission and Diff fluids are changed in Inspection I. I'll check when I get home...
The transmission are Inspection II, at least that's what the the 8/07 BMW schedule indicates. But it will be interesting to see if the earlier schedule says otherwise!

If your earlier version says Inspection I includes diff/transmission fluids, then I'd suspect the later schedule has some "cost cutting measures" included as a way to reduce BMW's costs associated with the service plan that came with the US cars. Same way as the annual oil change was changed during the life of the service plan, and the way brake rotors could be out of spec but as long as pads were over X% left they wouldn't swap out rotors.

Of Course there's been a whole lot of discussion over change intervals for fluids. Personally, I'm in for 30K changes on diff and transmission, with more frequent intervals if you take the car to the track (same applies to oil, and obviously brake fluid). IMO "recommended" isn't the same as "optimal", especially if you want to keep the car trouble free as long as possible. But, intervals are always a subject of much debate.
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      09-06-2012, 12:16 AM   #24
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Just got the Inspection I done at around 40k. The advisor told me that valve adjustments are done every 30k to go along with Inspection I and II. To be honest I'm not even quite sure what Inspection I and II consist of anymore.
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      09-06-2012, 12:39 AM   #25
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AFIK:

Inspection 1:
1) Change oil
2) Adjust valves

Inspection 2:
1) Change oil
2) Adjust valves
3) Change everything else

Where everything else includes, but is not limited to:
1) Diff oil
2) Trans oil
3) Brake fluid
4) Plugs
5) Belts as needed

But:
1) I choose to change plugs every time I do a valve adjustment. What the heck, I already have them out.
2) BMW says to change the brake fluid, but can Motul 600 really go bad in 60k if you don't track it? I'll drain a little next time, and if it's the same color as the stuff in the bottle, I may not mess with it.
3) BMW says nothing about coolant flush & fill, which I would think is a better idea than changing the brake fluid, so I do that, too.
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      09-06-2012, 02:02 AM   #26
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Brake fluid is time based, not mileage based. Since brake fluid tends to absorb moisture, it should be flushed every 2 years if you don't track it.
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      09-06-2012, 10:06 AM   #27
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can't rely on the Service Indicator for Inspection notification as it can be accidentally reset. I did my Inspectio I at 28,000 miles eventhought the Indicator still have over 12k miles on it. My lifetime MPG is about 19.5MGP and Inspection 1 should be done earlier than that. Sure, i don't drive my car really hard or track it but i believe it is based on some source of fuel consumption.
Anyhow, i did the following all by myself:
-Valve Adjustment (total of 6 replacement)
-Complete Coolant flushed with BMW Fluid
-Brake Fluid flushed with Motul
-Tranny Fluid replaced with BMW Fluid
-Rear Diff Fluid flushed with AMSOIL
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      09-06-2012, 11:13 AM   #28
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Thanks Pheonix.

I'll do it at 27,000 - 28,000 just to be safe.

It can't hurt to have it done early.
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      09-09-2012, 10:51 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
The transmission are Inspection II, at least that's what the the 8/07 BMW schedule indicates. But it will be interesting to see if the earlier schedule says otherwise!

If your earlier version says Inspection I includes diff/transmission fluids, then I'd suspect the later schedule has some "cost cutting measures" included as a way to reduce BMW's costs associated with the service plan that came with the US cars. Same way as the annual oil change was changed during the life of the service plan, and the way brake rotors could be out of spec but as long as pads were over X% left they wouldn't swap out rotors.

Of Course there's been a whole lot of discussion over change intervals for fluids. Personally, I'm in for 30K changes on diff and transmission, with more frequent intervals if you take the car to the track (same applies to oil, and obviously brake fluid). IMO "recommended" isn't the same as "optimal", especially if you want to keep the car trouble free as long as possible. But, intervals are always a subject of much debate.
Schedule is the same. The one I have is the 2006 3 series (E46), Z4 checklist. Ron posted it years back and I printed it. I must have done all the fluids based on the recommendations of the many that track their cars.
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      09-09-2012, 11:45 AM   #30
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Thanks! Looks like I won't be going off on any "conspiracy theory" tangents then.
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      09-09-2012, 12:26 PM   #31
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      12-20-2012, 06:50 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GP20 View Post
...

When you turn on the ignition and when your service indictor appears, next to the 12,525 miles, does it show "oil service" or does it show "inspection"?
When I turn on the ignition I always get the "OIL SERVICE" mileage, is there a way to find what my "INSPECTION" remaining mileage is?

thanks
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      12-21-2012, 06:44 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puciorek View Post
When I turn on the ignition I always get the "OIL SERVICE" mileage, is there a way to find what my "INSPECTION" remaining mileage is?

thanks
Remaining Oil Service mileage + 15,000 miles +/- 2,000
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      01-03-2013, 08:06 PM   #34
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What's the purpose of valve adjustment? I'm about to do my maintainence and I plan on doing belts, diff, transmission, spark plugs, brake flush, air and cabin filter. Is that enough?
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      01-03-2013, 08:30 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamreal View Post
What's the purpose of valve adjustment? I'm about to do my maintainence and I plan on doing belts, diff, transmission, spark plugs, brake flush, air and cabin filter. Is that enough?
First, congratulations on the purchase! Second, if you can do those things above, you should be able to do the valves. Several DIYs can be found here if you search. It's not that difficult. Second, here is a great link on step-by-step DIYs (not the only one, there are many available for the S54). Here's another. Or use Search, and look for "Valve" in the title and have results shown as thread.

"Why?" Because the S54 uses shims to set the amount of lift for valves. Over time, shims wear, as other parts of the valve train. This means the valves may not open optimally (loss of power) or close properly (worst case, "burned valve" which you don't want to have). It's a high-performance engine, and needs this adjustment done every 15K - 28K miles (depending on use). The car keeps general track of use based on amount of gasoline used, and will note when the next inspection is due. If you don't know the history of the car, I'd advise doing the valves. Worst case, you'll find little to adjust, best case you will have saved yourself a big headache.
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