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      08-01-2012, 03:23 PM   #1
nobrakese28
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Source for male M14X1.5 EGT bungs found

Gentlemen/Ladies,

After days and countless hours of searching I found a reliable source for EGT bungs. I called AEM in Torrance asking if they would sell the EGT bung out of there EGT sensor kit alone, turns out they have a have a part number for it.

The part number is 35-2055 and is available from Summit Racing, when ordering from Summit Racing give them the part number: AVM-352055. The bung cost about $25 plus shipping.

The bung is M14x1.5 SS piece, my piece should arrive tomorrow. Hopefully we can compare dimensions to a bung on a stock USA header to confirm the bung is long enough.

-Marco
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      08-01-2012, 03:39 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nobrakese28 View Post
Gentlemen/Ladies,

After days and countless hours of searching I found a reliable source for EGT bungs. I called AEM in Torrance asking if they would sell the EGT bung out of there EGT sensor kit alone, turns out they have a have a part number for it.

The part number is 35-2055 and is available from Summit Racing, when ordering from Summit Racing give them the part number: AVM-352055. The bung cost about $25 plus shipping.

The bung is M14x1.5 SS piece, my piece should arrive tomorrow. Hopefully we can compare dimensions to a bung on a stock USA header to confirm the bung is long enough.

-Marco
Did I say how much I love you?

I had given up on finding the piece
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      08-01-2012, 04:59 PM   #3
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All I saw was " SOURCE FOR MALE BUNGS FOUND"

and then I saw this...
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Did I say how much I love you?

I had given up on finding the piece
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      08-01-2012, 06:50 PM   #4
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lol You can be funny sometimes Villa.

OP...Great source thanks!
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      08-01-2012, 07:36 PM   #5
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The length of the thread is 7/16, or .4375".


Last edited by nobrakese28; 08-01-2012 at 10:55 PM.
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      08-03-2012, 03:17 PM   #6
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The length of the thread is 7/16, or .4375".

so is it a match? can it be used?
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      08-04-2012, 11:53 PM   #7
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We need someone to remove there EGT or measure their US header bung to confirm.
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      08-20-2012, 09:02 PM   #8
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...any update?
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      08-21-2012, 08:41 AM   #9
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I compared the AEM bung to the bung on my Supersprint headers and it looks like it will work. I just pulled the EGT of my car yesterday, I will thread it in when I get home tonight to confirm.
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      08-21-2012, 11:28 AM   #10
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sounds good.
With the EGT off, did you get a height measurement on the OE bung?

I don't think the height is too critical, but it would be nice to have the sensor penetration close to OE.
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      08-21-2012, 11:42 AM   #11
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Can you stick the EGT into the bung and take a picture? You don't need to screw it on (there is a lip that stops it), then you can see how much it sticks out, that's how you'll know if it's too long or not long enough.
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      08-23-2012, 08:44 PM   #12
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Sorry for the late reply guys! But it is a go!
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      02-04-2014, 06:19 PM   #13
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Thanks OP! I just ordered one and will be doing an my Euro headers / Section 1 mod install shortly. Any further feedback on real world fitment test on this topic?
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      02-05-2014, 11:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Ring_Monster View Post
Thanks OP! I just ordered one and will be doing an my Euro headers / Section 1 mod install shortly. Any further feedback on real world fitment test on this topic?

Monster If I were you, I would get a tune and put the put the O2 bungs and EGT on the new headers. leave the section 1 alone.... that will make things a lot easier. Believe me, bringing your section 1 to shop to get those 3 things welded and then running the O2s all the way to the back of the cats and putting everything together is a mayor pain below the lower back.

Think about it, let's say one of your post O2 sensors goes bad... now you have remove sec1 plus loosen up or remove sect 2 off the mufflers....etc etc.

If you have money to pay a shop to do all of these.... then ignore what I wrote. If you are planning to do it in your garage.... then make it easier on you.

PS, I was told by ESS that I cold run the car with no cats what so ever - so technically it doesn't matter if the post O2s are after the cats from sec 1 or next to the pre cat O2s.

I've been getting error code p2096 for the past 8 months and it looks like I have a small air leak coming from my bank 1 sensor 2. I had a shop do a smoke test on the car and they couldn't find any leaks around the engine. So now we have to bring everything down to check and weld around the post O2s again.... feel my pain?


Good luck
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      02-06-2014, 08:06 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffchaPz View Post
Monster If I were you, I would get a tune and put the put the O2 bungs and EGT on the new headers. leave the section 1 alone.... that will make things a lot easier. Believe me, bringing your section 1 to shop to get those 3 things welded and then running the O2s all the way to the back of the cats and putting everything together is a mayor pain below the lower back.

Think about it, let's say one of your post O2 sensors goes bad... now you have remove sec1 plus loosen up or remove sect 2 off the mufflers....etc etc.

If you have money to pay a shop to do all of these.... then ignore what I wrote. If you are planning to do it in your garage.... then make it easier on you.

PS, I was told by ESS that I cold run the car with no cats what so ever - so technically it doesn't matter if the post O2s are after the cats from sec 1 or next to the pre cat O2s.

I've been getting error code p2096 for the past 8 months and it looks like I have a small air leak coming from my bank 1 sensor 2. I had a shop do a smoke test on the car and they couldn't find any leaks around the engine. So now we have to bring everything down to check and weld around the post O2s again.... feel my pain?


Good luck
Isn't it true that if he mods section 1 and puts the O2 after the cat that he can then skip on the tune and run the car without errors and be 100% smog compliant? This is useful if he or any future owner has to pass smog and/or doesn't want to run a tune. I thought I read that even with the tune it may not be smog compliant if the rear sensors aren't after a cat.

I don't see possible future O2 sensor failure being that likely to happen and if they do the difference in the two repairs being that big of a deal.
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      02-11-2014, 01:11 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Isn't it true that if he mods section 1 and puts the O2 after the cat that he can then skip on the tune and run the car without errors and be 100% smog compliant? This is useful if he or any future owner has to pass smog and/or doesn't want to run a tune. I thought I read that even with the tune it may not be smog compliant if the rear sensors aren't after a cat.

I don't see possible future O2 sensor failure being that likely to happen and if they do the difference in the two repairs being that big of a deal.

-------------------------------------

I'm 99% sure that what you mentioned is correct. However, if you are not planning to get a tune then why bother replacing the headers and extending the O2s to the back etc etc. At that point, spend a bit more and get the extra few ponies from a tune. A tune is not going to make a huge impact on torque or HP, but you should get an extra 10 or 20 hp depending on the rest of your exhaust system. If you want serious power - then save your $$ and probably look at american muscle cars. I got to the point where I just can't spend any more money to make the car faster without making it stupid loud or getting all technical with a SC kit... no matter how much HP you have under the hood, sooner or later you are going to feel or think - that is not fast enough. Enjoy the car for what it is.

Good luck.
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      02-11-2014, 02:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David70
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffchaPz View Post
Monster If I were you, I would get a tune and put the put the O2 bungs and EGT on the new headers. leave the section 1 alone.... that will make things a lot easier. Believe me, bringing your section 1 to shop to get those 3 things welded and then running the O2s all the way to the back of the cats and putting everything together is a mayor pain below the lower back.

Think about it, let's say one of your post O2 sensors goes bad... now you have remove sec1 plus loosen up or remove sect 2 off the mufflers....etc etc.

If you have money to pay a shop to do all of these.... then ignore what I wrote. If you are planning to do it in your garage.... then make it easier on you.

PS, I was told by ESS that I cold run the car with no cats what so ever - so technically it doesn't matter if the post O2s are after the cats from sec 1 or next to the pre cat O2s.

I've been getting error code p2096 for the past 8 months and it looks like I have a small air leak coming from my bank 1 sensor 2. I had a shop do a smoke test on the car and they couldn't find any leaks around the engine. So now we have to bring everything down to check and weld around the post O2s again.... feel my pain?


Good luck
Isn't it true that if he mods section 1 and puts the O2 after the cat that he can then skip on the tune and run the car without errors and be 100% smog compliant? This is useful if he or any future owner has to pass smog and/or doesn't want to run a tune. I thought I read that even with the tune it may not be smog compliant if the rear sensors aren't after a cat.

I don't see possible future O2 sensor failure being that likely to happen and if they do the difference in the two repairs being that big of a deal.
You're correct. You can run all day error-free with no tune. However, why not optimize your mods? That's the no-brainier approach IMO anyways.
I just imported my car (made it Canadian), and had to revert to my stock tune for coding purposes. I was left unimpressed and will be changing back to my 94oct tune ASAP. The difference is day/night. G/L with your decision.
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      02-11-2014, 06:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
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You're correct. You can run all day error-free with no tune. However, why not optimize your mods? That's the no-brainier approach IMO anyways.
I just imported my car (made it Canadian), and had to revert to my stock tune for coding purposes. I was left unimpressed and will be changing back to my 94oct tune ASAP. The difference is day/night. G/L with your decision.
I am not debating the benefit of the tune (may add it) but more that I think it is worth the trouble to put the O2's after the cats & be 100% emission compliant regardless of the test, without check engine lights & needing a tune to get rid of the light. I prefer to be capable of passing emissions testing regardless of where I live & be able to sell it without going back to stock or telling the new owner that it may not pass emissions tests & that it has a tune that needs to remain or he will get a check engine light.

I also hope that when I buy my next car that if the current owner has made changes to it like this (possible non compliant emissions, with tune) that they tell me. When I see the "not CARB compliant" car ads I am less interested.
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      02-11-2014, 06:34 PM   #19
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Just to be clear, the tune I have does not get rid of the CEL. In fact, if it fails readiness ESS won't touch it. So not sure what your point is. I'm agreeing with you that relocating things is beneficial for your testing, and the tune only adds punch to what you already have. Both won't compromise your future plans. Anyhow my $0.02
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      02-11-2014, 11:14 PM   #20
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Quote:
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Just to be clear, the tune I have does not get rid of the CEL. In fact, if it fails readiness ESS won't touch it. So not sure what your point is. I'm agreeing with you that relocating things is beneficial for your testing, and the tune only adds punch to what you already have. Both won't compromise your future plans. Anyhow my $0.02
Johannes is correct, except ESS touched mine knowing my SES light was on and I told them why the light was on ( I cut and tried to extend the post O2 cables... that's a no no) With the tune in my hand, I replaced my broken O2s and passed TX inspection - the next day I uploaded my tune and the car was a bit smoother plus it had a bit more mid range torque.

Now, I'm getting the SES because it looks like I have a small air leak somewhere but it is not related to the tune or unhappy O2s - the problem is probably due to a bad welding job in my section 1

I was told I could run the car catless if I wanted - which was probably my plan back then. With that said - feel you can put the post O2s anywhere you like after the pre O2s.

Good luck!
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