N52 valve gasket Q

[rsutoratosu]

Working on the valve cover gasket. Every bolt comes out easily, low torque.
#18 specifically I'm having hard time backing out. I was able to back it out a little and I end up spraying penetrating oil over it. It loosen a bit and I spray a it more, then the rain came.. likely tomorrow to continue.

I thought it was like the other one in a sleeve like #16 but after looking up realoem, its a long bolt. So like to confirm if that's correct. I thought there was only 2 long bolt on the side.

Below the valvetronic, pool of oil. that whole area is soaked. I haven't driven the car much in last 3 years.

Photo doesn't seem to link. I put the url on bottom




real oem
Puddle

[vt100]

Originally Posted by rsutoratosu

#18 specifically I'm having hard time backing out.

Not sure I'm following... Is it stuck in the head or you're trying to remove it from the valve cover?

As far as I remember these bolts are not supposed to be removed from the cover.

PS: I'd highly recommend to replace the entire valve cover - after so many years PCV valve (which is integrated into the cover and not serviceable separately) is clogged and not functional any more.

[rsutoratosu]

Stuck in head.. its 9nm, all the bolts comes out with 0 force, this one I can feel its in upper 20s. going to add some more penetrating oil to make it easier.

I check other videos.. its has the sleeve on it.. wonder why realoem shows a straight bolt without sleeve

I have a new cover coming from fcp.. I figure I take it apart this weekend and put it back next weekend when it comes mid week.

If im able to back that out, Ill have to see what condition the threads are in.. hope I dont need to repair

[rsutoratosu]

Couldn't see last night in the dark.. but it has bolt in sleeve. Been shooing penetrating oil down. Likely need to a repair

stuck
Not stuck

[rsutoratosu]

After lubing a lot, nearly every turn.. finally out. Stripped.. seems my gasket was okay. It leaked out of the valvetronic down, cylinder 3 & 6 had the most oil sitting on top, 5 and 2 had a lot too but not as much.

new cover coming next week, will put it back next weekend. now to find the correct size thread tap to clean that hole up

Out

left striped, right good
strip

[belcom]

Originally Posted by rsutoratosu

It leaked out of the valvetronic down, cylinder 3 & 6 had the most oil sitting on top, 5 and 2 had a lot too but not as much.

Looks like you need the valvetronic motor gasket as well. Common failure item.

[vt100]

Originally Posted by rsutoratosu

left striped, right good
strip

looks like the bolt is OK'ish but the hole in the head is stripped (aluminum vs steel cannot win ). Get a heli-coil kit

[rsutoratosu]

Originally Posted by belcom

Looks like you need the valvetronic motor gasket as well. Common failure item.

I bought a new cover with everything from fcp. Extra valvetronic gasket so I can swap if it leaks again without waiting for the lifetime rma process

[rsutoratosu]

Originally Posted by vt100

looks like the bolt is OK'ish but the hole in the head is stripped (aluminum vs steel cannot win ). Get a heli-coil kit

I got a time sert set. Heard it was better

[belcom]

Originally Posted by rsutoratosu

I got a time sert set. Heard it was better

Oh yeah, used it on the oil pan drain bolt threads (while the oil pan was out of the car) and its great. Definitely fixed the issue and leaves you confident that the threads are made of steel now instead of aluminum and no chance of stripping again.

[rsutoratosu]

Originally Posted by belcom

Oh yeah, used it on the oil pan drain bolt threads (while the oil pan was out of the car) and its great. Definitely fixed the issue and leaves you confident that the threads are made of steel now instead of aluminum and no chance of stripping again.

I order it but they haven't shipped, I also ask time sert if the steel with react with aluminum, i do have a lot of rust from salt/winter mix.

They also sell aluminum inserts but I can't find it anywhere to buy. If they think its okay, Ill just keep my order in, else Ill switch to the aluminum insert if they let me know where to buy it

[belcom]

Originally Posted by rsutoratosu

I order it but they haven't shipped, I also ask time sert if the steel with react with aluminum, i do have a lot of rust from salt/winter mix.

They also sell aluminum inserts but I can't find it anywhere to buy. If they think its okay, Ill just keep my order in, else Ill switch to the aluminum insert if they let me know where to buy it

Pretty sure it'll be fine. Threadlock between the sleeve and base material will cut off all oxygen and moisture getting in there.

When you do drill the hole out make 100% sure to cover/close off the engine so that no shavings can get into it accidentally

[rsutoratosu]

I ordered a pack of aluminum inserts, wasnt expensive.. might need it in the future.. never know.

Their response:

Not sure on this because BMW has been saying they need aluminum inserts.
We sell the black steel inserts for every other aluminum block in the
world but BMW seems to only want to use aluminum inserts not sure why.

[Steeler]

N52 cylinder head is manufactured from Alusil, an Aluminum Silicone combination.

Likely the reaction between carbon steel and that blend is the reason BMW want you to use aluminum inserts.

FYI, the bolts are apparently Aluminum.

[rsutoratosu]

I thought only 2006 had the magnesium cover that uses aluminum bolt. Later on changed to steel ?

Either way, I have the aluminum inserts coming, to match the aluminum block.

[vt100]

Originally Posted by Steeler

FYI, the bolts are apparently Aluminum.

Bolts on my wife's 128i (same engine) are steel.

[Steeler]

Originally Posted by vt100

Bolts on my wife's 128i (same engine) are steel.

Just going by the website man.

Your's is obviously different.

[belcom]

Put a magnet on the bolts and see what it is but generally you can tell by weight

[rsutoratosu]

Going to be fun weekend

New valve cover tested with insert

timesert aluminum insert

timesert m7 kit

[rsutoratosu]

Time sert was very easy to use.. first thing I did this AM, insert with loctite requires 24 hours to cure. Spark plugs swapped. Rain every few min.. jacking car up for rtab tomorrow.

[belcom]

Originally Posted by rsutoratosu

Time sert was very easy to use.. first thing I did this AM, insert with loctite requires 24 hours to cure. Spark plugs swapped. Rain every few min.. jacking car up for rtab tomorrow.

The RTAB replacement is not the easiest. Even though I enjoy spending time tinkering with the Zs I really did not enjoy this job. Had to do it twice!

Better have a good rtab specific press tool. This is the hardest part. I had borrowed a used tool which was from schwab but has seen better days. The whole thing bent to shit and barely moved the bushing. The rod was bending, the fork was deforming etc. Felt like it was going to snap and kill me with shrapnel that's how much pressure I had to exert on it to make any kind of progress. Ultimately failed and the rod kind of fused itself to the press as well

Ended up having a friend of a friend fabricate a thick walled steel cup like press using the original threaded rod, nuts and the press insert from the schwab tool. This way the rod was pulling straight instead of bending which allows to create uniform pressure around the bushing and finally start moving it.

Tips:
1. make sure to oil whichever tool you're using every time you press (rod threads and nuts/washers)
2. Mark the position of the bracket in relation to the body with a marker and tighten it same way during re-assembly (it will sort of kind of help to put the alignment somewhat close to what it was before but not really. see point 7)
2. position the tool properly on the trailing arm. when you really start pushing watch if the rod starts to bend. if it does, its not pressing straight. back off and re-adjust.
3. spray the bushing with penetrating oil ahead of time
4. you're not supposed to use an air gun with these tools
5. when tightening the bracket back up make sure its aligned with center of the wheel hub (attached diagram for reference). if you don't it will create permanent stress on the bushing and it will wear out much faster.
6. worth considering to install the delrin RTAB limiters. These reduce RTAB flex under load (heavy cornering) which helps to improve handling a bit and prolong the RTAB bushing life is my understanding.
7. 100% you will need an alignment after this is done. Don't even doubt it.
8. have a 24" bar handy for pressing
9. use Lemforder bushings over Meyle HD. Lemforder is the closest you will get to bmw quality. Unless you buy the original of course.

If you talk about rain, suppose you're working outside. Wait for a nicer weekend when weather is better. If you get stuck its better if the sun is out. Call a friend to "help", have some beers and shoot the shit together while doing it. Might help to reduce stress

[rsutoratosu]

Yeah unfortunately I need to get the car done asap. New job needs car. Lol. I got the powerflex rtab that doesn’t need to do the preload alignment and comes with limiter. I did buy a new schwaban tool or what ever it’s call. Hopefully it’ll work well

Trying to get everything done within 2 weeks. I saw rain wed and Thursday here. I schedule alignment Friday as I put in coils last year and have not driven the car for over a year.