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03-29-2012, 01:22 PM | #1 |
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Brake , ABS and DSC lights intermittently turns on while driving
Anybody else experience this problem with their car?
While driving and around 2k and above rpm the all three lights (brake, ABS and DSC) will come on for a second or two and go back off, at the same time the radio and display screen shuts off and tuns back on again. The same thing will happen with the car stationary and just by revving the engine at around 2k to 3k rpm. There is also a lost of engine power whenever the lights come on. Does anybody has an idea of what might be causing these glitches? |
03-29-2012, 01:25 PM | #2 |
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i was getting some funny business like this too..... battery was dying..... a new battery sorted my shit, infact i even had a CEL a few times...
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03-29-2012, 01:59 PM | #4 |
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Correct, get a new battery ASAP before the Alternator goes bad. while you at it, hook up a line for a battery tender (especially if it is not your DD or only drive short distances)
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03-29-2012, 04:10 PM | #5 |
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I really hope my alternator hasnt gone bad! Ive been driving the car about 6 or 8 times with this problem... already having the new battery installed.
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03-29-2012, 04:15 PM | #6 |
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Battery
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03-29-2012, 04:45 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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03-29-2012, 07:07 PM | #9 |
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04-02-2012, 11:23 AM | #10 |
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sad to say isn't the battery....im still getting all three lghts turn on randomly with the new battery installed... and also got a fault code 5DF7 (Wiring supply voltage > 18 Volt)
looks like the altenador is having problem regulating the correct voltage... |
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04-02-2012, 11:38 AM | #11 |
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04-02-2012, 01:24 PM | #13 |
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A quick google search given these steps to quickly diagnos the charging system.
When your charging system is having issues test it with these steps to isolate the problem. "Check the battery. Ensure that the connections are very sound and that the clamps and terminals are clean to insure a good connection. With the engine running and headlights and accessories off, measure the voltage across the battery terminals. If the charging system is performing properly, the voltage should be between 13.3 volts (DC) and 14.7 volts. If you measure this voltage within this range the charging system is should be working properly. A shorted diode in the alternator can still allow a charging voltage of up to 13.3 volts, and can be detected by the battery going dead within several hours.* If this happens, charge the battery out of the car to confirm it is still good.* If you are still experiencing charging system issues, then the battery is suspect. If the voltage measured in step one is outside the range, check the voltage across the alternator output terminals. On the alternator, the top large terminal is the positive and the lower large terminal is negative.* The voltage across these terminals should be between 0 and 0.4 volts higher than the voltage across the battery." |
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04-04-2012, 03:16 PM | #14 |
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This morning I had the brake, ABS, and traction control triangle flash on and off at a frequency of about 1-2 Hz, three times, and then a few second pause, repeat.
On...off On...off On...off Pause On...off On...off On...off Pause The road was wet and sandy after a big storm last night, and it was still raining heavily, possibly confusing DSC. The process stopped when I tapped the brakes after about 5 iterations. I momentarily lost torque each time the lights illuminated.
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04-04-2012, 08:24 PM | #15 |
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This happen to me the first time but it just keep getting worse.... you get all three lights more frequently and they stay on for at least until your rpms drop down to 2,000 and under....
Seached the web and although this is not a common problem on the z4m, it has happen more on the e46 m3s. My problem seems to be the voltage regulator but unfortunately this part comes integrated into our alternador, whereas in the m3's its a separate part that can be change. (Im not 100% sure of this .... just from info i've found on diferent forums) |
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08-06-2012, 05:14 PM | #16 |
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Did anyone end up changing their alternator? If so, did that solve the problem?
I am having the same problem and it is pissing me off. Checked the battery (Fairly new OEM battery from Feb. 2012) and the connections and they are great. I was thinking of just buying the alternator and swapping it without testing the one I have in the car already... Hope it is the solution |
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08-07-2012, 01:42 PM | #17 |
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Just fixed my issue today....same issues....as most have indicated...it IS your battery. http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726145
Had mine at the Stealership....code read low battery. Changed out to fresh battery and all is well.
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08-07-2012, 10:49 PM | #18 |
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unfortunately for me was the alternator.... specifically the voltage regulator... tried looking for a replacement just for the voltage regulator, but its integrated into with the alternator and cant be bought separately. =(
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09-08-2012, 02:56 PM | #20 |
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So after testing my battery (like i previously mentioned) I decided to not even test the alternator and just replace it instead (seemed like the solution). Turns out it was indeed the solution to my problem. Cheapest one I found (remanufactured) was at partgeeks.com My car has been working like a charm for a week now. I have been driving nonstop with the ac & radio blasting, navi on, and all the lights on, all with no hiccups. Super happy!!
Thanks for your help guys. I appreciate it |
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12-04-2013, 10:52 AM | #21 |
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Hi Guys. I drive a 2006 Z4M and have the same problem.
Here are my voltage test results. With Engine off, the battery is measuring at 12.5V. With the car on it's shows a reading of 14.2 at idle and jumps to 15.5 (max) if rev-ed up to 3K. I believe this to be within normal limits. Not sure what to do next to figure out if it's the battery or the alternator. Also, am thinking of getting this, if the alternator is the issue, unless you can suggest something else. Last edited by GMSZ4M; 12-04-2013 at 10:57 AM.. |
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