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01-03-2013, 09:00 PM | #89 |
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Same here. There was a noticeable improvement when replaced, so it's a proven mod in my books. Stock tranny mounts are soft squishy little marshmallows.
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01-04-2013, 10:02 AM | #90 |
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Today the postman delivered two sets of mounts :-)
2x road mounts 2X Competition mounts they really are quite a thing to have in your hand..... very nicely made :-) will aim to get the competition mounts in asap.... which ever mounts i end up NOT using i will sell on for cheap in the spirit of the forum :-) pics later :-)
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01-04-2013, 01:14 PM | #91 |
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Just tracked mine, shipped on the 2nd and it show out for delivery today??? How is that possible?
I am excited, and may get cracking on them this weekend. As promised, I'll take pictures for a DIY install. |
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01-04-2013, 01:24 PM | #92 | |
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One thing i will say, the comp ones are no joke, they rubber is SOLID. im PRAYING that are ok or at least something i can live with, for the extra track use-age i get i really want the added control of these substantially stiffer units.... i wont hold my breath however.
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01-04-2013, 02:26 PM | #93 | |
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J/K, can't wait to hear your report! |
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01-04-2013, 02:33 PM | #94 | |
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also the comp ones have big ass beefy nylocks.... they are also heavier. Phil has no idea how these will behave on a road car.... so, lets see... he reckons with the balance of the s54 they may be liveable..... lol MAY!! he said on 4 cylinders they are horrific!! lol!!
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01-04-2013, 04:51 PM | #96 | |
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Lift the motor or drop the subframe??
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01-04-2013, 05:30 PM | #97 |
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Mine just arrived
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01-04-2013, 07:06 PM | #98 |
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Got my tracking #
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01-04-2013, 07:34 PM | #100 | |
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01-05-2013, 11:01 AM | #101 |
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Got mine yesterday. Had my wife pick them up at the fedex office on her way home.
Just finished the install. 2 hours without haste, it's pretty easy. I have CSL headers, and I don't think the passenger side could be done without removing stock headers, the cats will be in the way very much. If you are doing a header swap or motor mount bolt replacement, now would be a good time... Remove the aluminum brace / pan from under the engine. Drivers side is done from above (except for lower mount nut). Remove intake boot / filter cover, disconnect wires/hoses. Move reservoir on mount bracket toward the front of the car. Remove motor mount top nut, break the 4 motor mount bracket bolts loose, remove the top 2 bolts - leave the lower 2 in for now - just break them loose. Get under and break the lower mount nut loose and remove. Place a piece of wood under the engine (watch the hoses / sensors) and raise with a jack until there is looseness in the mount / bracket, doesn't take much. Take the 2 lower motor mount bracket bolts out. Wiggle the bracket and mount and remove mount only. Install new mount, install nut on bottom of mount, install 4 motor mount bracket bolts and torque. Drop the engine off of the jack and put all the stuff back together. Passenger side was easier. All done from under the car. Move pressure reservoir from mount bracket, loosen mount bracket bolts from engine, remove bottom nut from mount, jack up engine slightly again until mount is slack, remove ground from frame to bracket, take the bracket out. Install new mount to bracket loosely (need to align when in the car) and wiggle the assembly back into place. Install all hardware, and drop the jack. Install pan / brace, and clean up. It's raining here, haven't started the car yet... |
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01-05-2013, 02:48 PM | #102 |
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nice first to get these installed on a z4m :-) well ill have a go all being well tomorow.
i got confused however as my passenger side is your drivers so i was thinking,,, what the hell.... lol!!!! slightly nervous about lifting the motor on my car due to all the s/c pipes ect ect just to confirm, ia access pretty easy and how far are we lifting the motor?? so the key is to work on the mount frame and tilt this to get further access without lifting the motor to much?? Also when Tq specs are you using for the mounts and the mount frame bolts. im still considering dropping the subframe :-/
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01-05-2013, 03:48 PM | #103 |
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Access is very good, lift the motor about 1/8" - just enough to take the weight off the mount (jack a little, wiggle mount, repeat). You will be fine, even with all the piping. The engine moves more than this under load...
Correct, you will unbolt the mount frames, and it will give you plenty of room - I actually took out the mount and the frame on the EXHAUST side. - intake side, just took the bolts out of the frame, and pulled the mount out from up top. Mount frame / engine torque spec is 16ftlbs, 21 nm. Mount spec? Tight... You are wasting your time dropping the subframe. It's easier than I thought. |
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01-05-2013, 04:24 PM | #104 |
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where where you jacking the motor?? guessing you used a piece of 2x4 somewhere.
huh..... your making this sound almost rather..... easy??? lol!! lastly are these motor mount bolts one time use??? i.e maybe we should replace at this point?? so frame bolts are 21nm, the mount nut tq is something im still trying to find..... im going to have to potentially do this twice!!! lol!!! i think im the only person to stick in the comp mounts..... hmmmm nervous about this... lol
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01-05-2013, 04:42 PM | #105 |
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Yes, actually a short piece of 4x4, just got a corner of the oil pan, you aren't putting much weight on it.
I don't think the higher grade bolts I put in were one time use, and the nordlocks I have are reusable. I upgraded per common bolt loosening bulletin. You should too if you haven't. |
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01-05-2013, 05:04 PM | #106 |
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Wow I thought this is going to be pita but it looks like it might not be as bad as I thought! Thanks Geauxkart! Beedub, you're next!
If I have time later I'll check TIS. But if the SIB says 16ft lbs, and no torque plus angle torque, it's a good bet you can reuse them. But definitely should upgrade the bolts while we're in there if not already done. |
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01-05-2013, 05:33 PM | #107 | |
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Where can I get the part numbers for the upgraded units??? My car is an 07, were they supplied with the upgraded bolts maybe as I remember supplying my dealer with that bulletin and was told it doesn't apply to euro cars. But if I'm actually backing these out then I may as well replace at this point.
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01-05-2013, 05:41 PM | #108 | |
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01-05-2013, 05:43 PM | #109 | |
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http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=635649
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01-05-2013, 06:03 PM | #110 |
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Took the car for a spin, no noticeable NVH, and a nice sharper shift, doesn't feel rubbery any more - also less clunk when shifting in 1st/2nd at low rpm.
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