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      01-14-2012, 01:09 PM   #1
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BMW Motorsport Engine Mount Bolts

I'm about to order these BMW Motorsport Engine Mount Bolts, but are not sure on the quantity needed. For those that have already done this, could you please confirm how many of each type of bolts that I will need? Thanks.

M8x25 10.9: 07119913653
M8x35 10.9: 07119913673
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      01-14-2012, 01:39 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
I'm about to order these BMW Motorsport Engine Mount Bolts, but are not sure on the quantity needed. For those that have already done this, could you please confirm how many of each type of bolts that I will need? Thanks.

M8x25 10.9: 07119913653
M8x35 10.9: 07119913673
http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsR...iagram=22_0064

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...9&postcount=39
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      01-14-2012, 02:30 PM   #3
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Awesome...Thanks Ron!

Looks like I needed:

6 pieces - M8x25 10.9: 07119913653
2 pieces - M8x35 10.9: 07119913673
8 pieces - Washers: 07119903078
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      01-14-2012, 02:39 PM   #4
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norlock make a really good washer for this application. http://www.nord-lock.com/
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      01-14-2012, 04:58 PM   #5
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Definitely get some nord locks while you're in there. You can buy them at mcmaster-carr. Install with some high quality anti-seize if using nord-locks (not loctite).
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      01-14-2012, 05:52 PM   #6
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I am running McMaster Carr grade 10.9 bolts on the passenger side mount with the OE washers.
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      01-14-2012, 07:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pal View Post
I am running McMaster Carr grade 10.9 bolts on the passenger side mount with the OE washers.
You did it right.
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      01-14-2012, 07:15 PM   #8
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good call. my engine mount bolts stripped or something when i hit a pothole under load.
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      01-14-2012, 11:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
You did it right.
Agreed. I'll be using the OEM washers as well. The Nord-lock washer looked a bit undersized (smaller clamping area).
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      01-15-2012, 08:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
Awesome...Thanks Ron!

Looks like I needed:

6 pieces - M8x25 10.9: 07119913653
2 pieces - M8x35 10.9: 07119913673
8 pieces - Washers: 07119903078
You need (6) M8x25 and (2) M8x35 bolts. The M8x25 go on all except the vanos accumulator bracket holes and the M8x35 go there.
To get access to the rear passenger bolts, you're going to have to remove the front axle reinforcement plate that requires replacement of the one time use bolts. There are (8) of them and they also need angle torqued. The part number should be 31106772199.

My front two on the passenger side were missing/loose. So far those are the only two I've replaced. I'm waiting until I have everything to do the CDV delete before doing the other two on the passenger side.

The rear lower mount hole on the driver's side is accessible without removing anything. It looks like you need to remove intake parts to get to the other mount bolts.

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthre...=624333&page=2

Post #30 shows what I saw after I installed the lower front passenger bolt. You need to move the Vanos accumulator out of the way to get to the top bolt.

I used nordlock washers and installed the bolts dry (no lock tite or thread lube).

Last edited by bignosejim; 07-29-2012 at 09:39 PM..
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      01-15-2012, 02:14 PM   #11
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What's the total cost on the parts for this project (not that it's going to affect whether or not I do it, eventually).

I'm just trying to map out my maintenance plans. I'd like to do the CDV delete, Rouge transmission mounts and engine bolts in one project while I have access to a lift this spring/summer.
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      01-16-2012, 01:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msh441 View Post
What's the total cost on the parts for this project (not that it's going to affect whether or not I do it, eventually).

I'm just trying to map out my maintenance plans. I'd like to do the CDV delete, Rouge transmission mounts and engine bolts in one project while I have access to a lift this spring/summer.
P/N 07 11 9 913 653, MSRP $0.75 each
P/N 07 11 9 913 673, MSRP $0.56 each.
Order SS Nord-Lock washers here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=fu0krm
Package of five will run you about $8.00.
I've got some bolts if you need them.
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      01-25-2012, 06:40 PM   #13
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what is the best way to do this install?

lock tight? thread lube?

since im going to be under the car anyhow, im going to do this at the same time as the headers.
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      01-25-2012, 07:21 PM   #14
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Loctite if using OEM washers. Anti-seize if using nord-locks.
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      01-25-2012, 07:58 PM   #15
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I installed my 10.9 bolts with Nordlock washers sans anything. Didn't want anti-seize to give me a false torque reading. I thought that the main issue was they were never tightened at the factory, since most E46 M3's don't have this issue.

At any rate, I'm sure I'll be keeping an eye on them in the future.
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      01-25-2012, 08:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim View Post
Didn't want anti-seize to give me a false torque reading. I thought that the main issue was they were never tightened at the factory, since most E46 M3's don't have this issue.
I agree. I wouldn't use the loctite either.

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      01-26-2012, 12:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim View Post
I installed my 10.9 bolts with Nordlock washers sans anything. Didn't want anti-seize to give me a false torque reading.
I think it's best to follow what nord-lock recommends. They have lots of white papers and information on their website.

Why lubricate

Minimize torsional stress

During tightening, bolts are subjected to both tensile and torsional stress. The desired tensile stress (clamp load) is achieved when the bolt is stretched. Unwanted torsional stress (twisting) in bolts arises during tightening due to friction between the contact surfaces in the threads. High thread friction increases twisting of the bolts and causes yielding at lower clamp load levels than normal.

Applying an adhesive significantly increases thread friction during tightening. The graph to the right shows that when tightening bolts with adhesives on the threads, only half as much clamp load was obtained before reaching the yield points compared to when tightening similar lubricated bolts. Since NORD-LOCK’s unique wedge-locking technique is not affected by lubrication, the thread friction, and thereby also the torsional stress, can be minimized.
In addition, the diagram shows that at any given torque value the clamp load deviation for lubricated bolts is very low. Using NORD-LOCK washers together with a lubricant ensures that bolted joints will be safely locked at the highest possible clamp load level.

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      01-26-2012, 01:43 AM   #18
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worth noting, you can easily feel all of the engine mount bolts on the passenger side by sticking your arm down there with a COLD ENGINE. It wont really tell you how loose or tight the bolts are, but it will tell you if they are there or if they have backed out.
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      01-26-2012, 07:49 AM   #19
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Does using the BMW Motorsport bolts change any of the torque or angle values spec'd for the standard bolts? Also, just to make sure I'm clear on the angle torque process, you torque the bolt to the specified torque rating and then turn the bolt the specified number of degrees from that point, correct?

For what it's worth, my SA thinks I'm overly paranoid for replacing these bolts as he says he's never seen one break. Based on what I've seen on this board, I'll feel better after replacing them. Thanks for the input.
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      01-27-2012, 01:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim View Post
No. You need (4) M8x25 and (4) M8x35 bolts. The M8x25 go in the motor mount bracket holes closest to the firewall and the M8x35 go in the front holes. Just looking at realoem again, maybe I'm wrong! Looks like the vanos pressure accumulator bracket holes gets the 35mm and the rest are 25mm! (Maybe time to order 2 more 25mm bolts)

To get access to the rear passenger bolts, you're going to have to remove the front axle reinforcement plate that requires replacement of the one time use bolts. There are (8) of them and they also need angle torqued. The part number should be 31106772199. My front two on the passenger side were missing/loose. So far those are the only two I've replaced. I'm waiting until I have everything to do the CDV delete before doing the other two on the passenger side.

The rear lower mount hole on the driver's side is accessible without removing anything. It looks like you need to remove intake parts to get to the other mount bolts.

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthre...=624333&page=2

Post #30 shows what I saw after I installed the lower front passenger bolt. You need to move the Vanos accumulator out of the way to get to the top bolt.

I used nordlock washers and installed the bolts dry (no lock tite or thread lube).
Do these really need to be replaced? Despite the fact there are 8 of them and the only hold the stiffner plate in place, they are VERY large bolts and list for nearly $3.00 each? Has everyone else that has done this procedure replaced all 8 of these bolts too?
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      05-08-2012, 08:02 PM   #21
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The right side were replaced 3 years ago. Should i look at the left side ? Anybody have seen replaced ones go loose a 2nd time ?
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      05-08-2012, 08:19 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhughett View Post
Does using the BMW Motorsport bolts change any of the torque or angle values spec'd for the standard bolts? Also, just to make sure I'm clear on the angle torque process, you torque the bolt to the specified torque rating and then turn the bolt the specified number of degrees from that point, correct?

For what it's worth, my SA thinks I'm overly paranoid for replacing these bolts as he says he's never seen one break. Based on what I've seen on this board, I'll feel better after replacing them. Thanks for the input.
Read SI B 22 01 09. I got my bolts replace under warranty because it was broken. I printed it out and bring it to dealer.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf Engine Mount Bolts - Service Bulletin.pdf (396.2 KB, 485 views)
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