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04-19-2021, 07:00 AM | #2 |
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That unfortunately looks like a DSC module failure, but I'd check your battery first. If it's not battery, look at having Module Masters rebuild it before replacing it at a dealer.
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04-19-2021, 08:07 PM | #3 |
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Check fuses also. Does your cruise control work, and is the car throwing any codes? I am dealing with this currently and going to be using Module Masters to hopefully fix my non M Z4.
Tye |
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05-14-2021, 06:53 PM | #4 |
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Did you figure out your issue?
I am currently dealing with this issue and am at wits' end with it. I had an independent BMW specialist look at the car and they told me it needed the abs module replaced. I sent my abs module to module master and re installed the unit to no avail. I have no clue where to go from here and cannot drive my car because it will not pass an out of province inspection with these light on. If anyone has anything else to suggest, I would be happy to try it, otherwise, I will have no choice but to sell this car to someone with deeper pockets than I have. Tye |
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05-15-2021, 07:37 AM | #5 |
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To resolve these trifecta lights, here's what I did:
Diagnose - I used a Foxwell scanner. Un-resettable Error codes 5DF0 and 5DF1 indicate a bad DSC unit. 1. Remove negative battery terminal, Jack up the car. 2. remove left front wheel. I did remove the plastic engine belly pan so that in case of any spills it would end up on cardboard that I placed underneath. 3. Easiest access is through the left front wheel well after partial opening up the aft half of the left front wheel fender liner. 4. I ended up removing the coolant tank located above the DSC unit after syphoning it dry, held in place by 2 bolts on top. Catch the remaining coolant when disconnecting the hose, about 2.5 liters came out. 5. I siphoned out the brake fluid from the reservoir. 6. At the DSC unit Remove the square wiring connector - pull the tab on top all the way up, about 1-1.5 inches, the connector should then come loose on its own. Label the 6 tubes attached to the DSC. Not sure you can cross connect them, just in case. Then disconnect one tube a time using a size 11 wrench. Catch any drip with rags, avoid spills at all cost. Use brake cleaner to wipe off anything you think might have been exposed to brake fluid. I did not use a pedal depressor - I never touched the brake pedal during the DSC removal & install process prior to bleeding. after removal of the 6 tubes, the DSC unit is only secured by a single bolt. Remove bolt and wiggle the unit loose from its mounting supports (2 grommets). 7. With the DSC unit out of the car, remove its bracket (3 bolts). 8. Order the rebuild from Module Masters, sent them the DSC unit following their instructions. Turn around time for me was 9 calendar days. About $300 total with shipping charges. 9. Install following the reversed removal steps. Bolt on the bracket, install the DSC module in place, reconnect wiring connector and the 6 brake lines, install the coolant reservoir, add 2.5 liters BMW 50/50 coolant, top off brake fluid reservoir using DOT 4 LV brake fluid. 10. Reconnect battery. Start engine to bleed air out of cooling system. The reservoir has a bleeder valve. Since I measured the amount of coolant taken out, I made sure the same amount went in. In my case 2.5 liters. Do not touch the brake pedal yet. 11. Bleed the brakes, in sequence of furthest to nearest to the reservoir (right rear -> left rear -> right front -> left front). I followed the manual bleed process with a buddy of mine: one person in the car, one at the caliper. Build pressure on the pedal, hold depressed, open bleeder valve, pedal drops to the floor - hold in place - catch brake fluid, close bleeder valve, let go of brake pedal, repeat until air free and clear brake fluid comes out of the caliper. Repeat for each caliper in the sequence mentioned above. Keep the brake fluid reservoir topped off at all times! 12. The trifecta lights don't erase themselves. I have a Foxwell NT520 pro scanner and was able to clear the lights using this scanner. At first it couldn't communicate with the DSC unit, error codes 2DCC and 2DCD - the square wiring connector wasn't fully seated. That fixed this issue. 13. Test drive. This is a very straight forward fix. It's not difficult and took about 2 hours to remove, 1 hour to install and another hour bleeding the coolant and brakes. I am comfortable working on my car, have a garage, do have a good set of tools, a quick jack, and Foxwell scanner. As for consumables You need about 1.5 liters of OEM coolant, 1.5 liters distilled water, 1 can of DOT4 LV brake fluid (or whatever you currently are using), brake cleaner, and shop rags. I called Module masters who assisted with diagnosing the no communication issue upon reinstalling the DSC - only after I tried reseating the wiring connector a few times myself. It's a bit tricky but eventually I got it seated and connected correctly. The car can be driven with a bad DSC module. You will have brakes, just no dynamic stability control. In normal driving, not having DSC is not noticeable. Hope this was helpful.
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05-15-2021, 01:24 PM | #7 |
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Great write up and it sounds like you had success. Unfortunately for me, I did not get so lucky. Took the car for a drive yesterday, brakes feel great, car runs good but my lights are still on. I also have the foxwell 510 elite scanner and there are no codes to clear but the lights remain on. So far I am into this issue for $1200 with absolutely no gain whatsoever. I think I am done with this.
Glad things worked out for you. Tye |
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05-15-2021, 02:25 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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05-17-2021, 09:45 PM | #9 |
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I am still trying to diagnose my issue (sorry, I am cross posting things).
I have not phoned Module Masters yet as I want to cover all my bases first. The car is now storing 1 code (5DD2) and will not pass 1 test in the service section on my code reader (Foxwell 510 Elite), which I am pretty sure are related. Also tested the ABS again today by safely panic braking, and the tires completely lock up (obviously the ABS is not working). When you were disconnecting and re connecting your ABS module, did you disconnect the battery each time? I noticed a fuse box under the hood but cannot find a diagram for it. (see the attachment for my under hood fuse box. picture turned for some reason) When checking/pulling fuses, is it necessary to disconnect the battery? I have honestly been reading way too much and things I would typically just do. I am apprehensive to perform because of the things I have read online. The biggest thing being that with this car (or all BMW's, this is my first), if you touch anything electrical, disconnect the battery. I am also going to re bleed the brakes as after failing the test (code reader), it states that air is in the system, bleeder is still connected (it wasn't) or the pedal was pressed during the procedure (it wasn't). Anything I am missing? Tye |
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05-25-2021, 11:33 AM | #10 |
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You need to download INSTAD and purchase a cable so you can clear those codes. If the fault light is on and your code reader can't "see" them it's not capable of reading all or some BMW proprietary codes.
Lots of YouTube videos on how to use software. Just be aware that the cable you get needs to be compatible with the year of your car. In '07 there was a slight change in the "pin" setup on the car. So… if your car was manufactured prior to 04/'07 I think the date is…. Your cable needs to be pinned for that. My cable is capable of switching between the two.
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05-25-2021, 03:52 PM | #11 |
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I just got off the phone with Jes at Module Masters. He seems to think it has to do with voltage/current (not enough). I only have it hooked up to a 2A charger and my car turns on the headlights/tail lights even if the switch is off.
At the moment, the car is only storing a 5DD2 (Hydraulic unit adjustment, DSC unit (valves) It will not pass the calibration of the DSC unit, the motor turns on for a few seconds and tells me the adjustment could not be performed. I have bled the brakes multiple times using several methods to no avail. I have a cable and can modify the pins if needed, just not comfortable with learning new software. If there is anyone is in Alberta, Canada, and already knows/has this program. I would be happy to pay for your time. Tye |
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05-25-2021, 07:55 PM | #12 | |
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Any possibility you can hook it up to a (newly) charged car battery?
Coincidental, I had a weak battery (55% state of charge, always on a tender) at the same time the trifecta lights were on. The Foxwell reader indicated a bunch more codes/errors, all of two cleared upon installing a new battery. The two remaining codes were the indications of a bad DSC unit that was repaired by Module Masters. Quote:
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05-25-2021, 08:29 PM | #13 | |
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05-26-2021, 06:56 PM | #14 |
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OK, I am really getting tired of this temperamental thing!
Just for reference, the battery was replaced this winter as when it arrived from the east coast, the battery died along the way. I have had it on a 12A charger since last night and tried it when I got home from work and nothing. I tried taking the 40A fuse out for the headlights, but all that does is introduce a whole bunch of codes. I am not sure exactly sure, but am wondering why my headlights are on no matter what position the switch is in? Shouldn't a person be able to turn the lights off completely (especially when the car is not running)? If this is indeed a voltage/amperage issue, I would think the headlights being on all the time sure draw a hell of a lot of current. I am trying to avoid bringing this into a shop because legally I cannot drive it on the road without proper registration. I cannot get proper registration because it will not pass an out of province inspection because of the trifecta lights. AAAAAAARGH!!!!!! Tye Last edited by TyzToyz; 05-26-2021 at 07:03 PM.. |
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05-28-2021, 12:22 PM | #15 |
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Driving lights will be on if ignition is on….
License it for a day (windshield/paper) to allow you to transport it to a garage if necessary. That should allow you to get around the inspection requirement.
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08-26-2021, 03:33 PM | #16 |
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Just wanted to update this post with positive news.
I finally found a shop that I trusted enough not to take me through the wringer I had already been through. I was unable to speak with the tech when I picked up my car as they were busy, but they only charged me for half of an hour labor and my car no longer has any lights on in the dash and the cars ABS and traction control work as intended now. Brought the car in to get the OPI and is now legally registered in my province. Tye |
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09-06-2021, 12:18 AM | #17 | |
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I have this combination of lights on, and wanting to rule things out before automatically sending out to MM for rebuild. Thanks |
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10-10-2021, 02:06 PM | #18 |
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Google …Z4 trifecta
Also resetting steering angle sensor… Handheld scanners only rarely are able to read and reset BMW proprietary error codes. With ISTAD you can read an error code and then diagnose the issue it's causing and recommended fix …. ISTAD is diagnostic software for that specific purpose. There are YouTube tutorials on how to use it. You can download the software for free now and buy the necessary cable off of eBay/Amazon … I have/use an old windows computer specifically just for this purpose…
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06-10-2023, 10:22 PM | #19 |
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Same issue here. Going for the easy and inexpensive route first. Swapping out all 4 ABS sensors.
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