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08-15-2019, 08:54 PM | #1 |
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New BMW z4
Looking to buy a 2006 z4 with only 63k miles on it. Clean report and very well kept. Anything to look at that only owners would know? Thank you in advanced
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08-16-2019, 03:04 AM | #2 |
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Can you be more specific?
///M or non-///M, if the latter, which flavor and trans? Coupe or roadster? There's lots to look at that only owners would know, but it's sub-model specific. Most of it can be found by just perusing these forums. If it's an early 2006 ///M roadster, I have many tales to tell.
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08-16-2019, 08:44 PM | #4 |
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So the specifics of M or non M, the cars we r looking at are non M. As for transmission, it doesn't matter. It's for my wife and she drives either one. So we don't have a preference. It's a 2006 with 63k soft top non m and auto. There is another one that is 2006 with only 44k that is auto and soft top. I'm just looking for the hidden things to look for with these specific model? Thank you
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08-18-2019, 08:42 AM | #5 |
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There are more versions. Is it a 3.0i or 3.0si? Auto vs manual does make a difference as well as each has its own issues. The soft top operation is the biggest thing to check as it is quite expensive to fix. Both engines are stout and quite reliable.
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08-18-2019, 09:50 AM | #6 |
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Top issues (motor is in a dumb place and gets water ingress), sticky steering column (fixed mid-2006), some automatic transmission issues depending on the vintage. With the age of vehicle you're looking at you may see plastics starting to deteriorate such as the valence under the wipers. Check the date code on the tires -- old tires can be very dangerous and low mileage cars may not have had them changed in a long time. Anything older than 8 years (some say less) should be replaced.
Good luck! They're great cars to drive. If she can drive a stick you should try to hold out for one; they're harder to find but much more engaging to drive. Look for M Sport suspension and seats too. Avoid the nav if possible but I wouldn't let it be a deal breaker. It's just kind of useless. |
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08-20-2019, 09:10 AM | #7 |
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okay, great infromation and thank you. So it is a 2003 z4 3.0 i, automatic, softtop with only 44k on it. its not a m series, i just don't think i could pass this up if it is good. i know my wife is looking at this specific model. there is another one that is a 2006 that is z4 2.5i, automatic, non m series, softop that has only 63K. so i was just curious, thank you
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08-20-2019, 09:41 AM | #8 | |
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For 2006, 2007 and 2008, the engines were changed. In North America you could get a 3.0i at 215 hp, a 3.0si at 255 hp or a Z4M at 330 hp.
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08-22-2019, 05:00 PM | #9 |
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08-22-2019, 05:13 PM | #10 | |
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I read the difference is down to the exhaust system.
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08-22-2019, 06:50 PM | #11 | ||
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08-22-2019, 07:21 PM | #12 | |||
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N/A Z4M: 330hp N/A M3: 333hp EU Z4M: 338hp EU M3: 338hp The N/A Z4M has 4 cats, whereas the M3 only has 2. But both EU models have 2 cats (located in the section 1). Because of this I'd guess the section 1 cats are worth the 3hp.
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08-22-2019, 07:50 PM | #13 | |
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However the 2003 engine is maybe more reliable or easier/cheaper to fix than the 2006 engine. The 2006 engine is more fuel efficient The 2003 3.0i has more grunt than the 2006 2,5i. However if you buy one with bluetooth, chances are your phone won't work with the 2003 system and may work with the 2006. These are some points to inspect from the top of my head: 2003 engine specific checkpoints: -vanos, rattle at about 3k rpm: can be fixed relative cheaply by a specialist that can fit new o rings in the unit -Disa valve: overall rattle: new valve is about $250 and screws right in 2006 engine specific checkpoints: -valve lifter tick: on cold startups the engine can tick. This doesnt cause damage necessarily, but is annoying. Only fix: new cylinderhead; 2k+ -waterpump: the electric waterpumps fail. Price is around 600 I believe. General z4 issues (besides the roof motor pump, which should be relocated to the trunk by a specialist before its too late) - front control arm bushings: last about 50k-80k -radiator coolant reservoir: cracks will form, after 50-100k miles -ccv system: clogs up especially in colder climates with short drives -valve cover gasket: can start leaking after about 100k on both engines, cheap to fix -z4 interior is not the best build; look for damages, scratches etc on door handles, panels et.
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08-22-2019, 08:00 PM | #14 |
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A couple of minor points re GuidoK’s excellent comments.
I don’t think there was a 2.5 in 2006; only up to 2005. I’m not sure that it’s fair to say that the 2003 engines were more reliable . My 2006 has been bulletproof. However the earlier cars can be modded to get more power out of them. As I recall, the earlier cars have a cast iron block that can support a higher output than the N52 engine in the 2006+ non M cars with their aluminum magnesium blocks. Those later engines are however a lot lighter. My 2006 has Bluetooth and it works fine with my brand new iPhone XR Last edited by Huz-Z; 08-22-2019 at 08:08 PM.. |
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08-22-2019, 08:06 PM | #15 |
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In europe there was, both a n52 2.5i and 2.5si, but realoem only list a n52 3.0i and n52 3.0si for the US market.
So either the 2.5 is some kind of strange import from wherever, or its a 3.0i/3.0si or it isn't a 2006 N52 model but a prefacelift m54 (maybe put on plates in 2006).
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08-22-2019, 08:12 PM | #16 |
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Ah okay - I was talking about the North American models. For Europe you are right that there were those smaller engines!
Here are some details - looks respectable: https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-review...z4-2.5si-sport Last edited by Huz-Z; 08-22-2019 at 08:19 PM.. |
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08-22-2019, 10:16 PM | #17 |
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Another difference between the S54 in the Z4M & the M3 - a more modern ECU in the Z4M which allegedly has a much faster processor than the M3 version. Not sure what benefit that actually provides but I've read this more than once over the years.
Here's some info highlighted in the first post.. https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=170765
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08-25-2019, 08:13 AM | #18 | |
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11-26-2019, 04:13 AM | #20 |
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