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10-26-2017, 04:38 PM | #1 |
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Torque Wet or Dry for Connecting Rod Bolts
I have been reading the various DIYs on rod bearing replacement, and I know on the ARP bolts, they recommend using their lube on the threads and head before torquing. However, for OEM rod bolts, the official TIS mentions nothing about oiling the rod bolts or using assembly lube for the bolts.
My thinking is that BMW doesn't mention lubricating the rod bolts, because the rod threads are already wet with oil, so the bolt will be lubricated slightly with 10W60 as it is threaded, and their torque procedure accounts for this. For our resident engineers and engine building experts, does that sound right? It looks on the surface like a dry torque, but it's actually a wet torque? I know, I'm probably overthinking all this, but I want to make sure I do it right. Thanks all for your input and patience while I hash all this out. Salty
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10-26-2017, 04:56 PM | #2 |
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I would vote for wet.
Like you say, they're going to be oily already. The amount of effort required to get them dry would be worth mentioning in the TIS if it were a requirement.
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10-26-2017, 06:13 PM | #3 |
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OEM bolts are torque to yield (angle torqued multiple times)? They need to be dry IMO.
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10-27-2017, 11:02 AM | #6 |
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Usually rodbolts and similar situations (inside the engine) are torqued wet.
For the s54 bmw has written this elaborate instruction for multiple torquing and maybe they forgot that. For all other bmw eninges its wet. Also its virtually impossible to do it dry, because you're not going to clean out the holes with a solvent and a cotton bud (and oil is still dripping inside that hole because you have to lube the crank and bearings). Thats why bolts inside the engine are usually torqued wet.
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10-27-2017, 12:19 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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10-27-2017, 09:31 PM | #9 | |
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If I don't get in over my head on this, I'll document everything on the Z4M, and make up a thorough DIY for us. Salty
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