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07-08-2015, 05:53 PM | #1 |
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Airbox install
Hello all,
It has been a while since I posted at this forum, because I bought a 98 Supra Turbo. Anyways that's irrelevant or insulting maybe I'm doing this DIY so it would help you get an idea. Do not blame me if something goes wrong with you. AIRBOX: Goke-Carbon from CA-Automotive TUNE: Epic Motorsports First thing, look at your dirty car. Once you get your tuning package follow the instructions in it carefully. Install the software and USB cable drivers. Now it's time to read your ECU. You must use an external power supply, otherwise your battery might drain and render your ECU as a brick. It is also preferred that your battery condition is healthy, mine was a new battery. I looked at internet for a stable external power supply that runs of AC, but the prices were high and shipping cost to my country is super insane. Searched in my city and could not find any true power supplies with enough Amps. I also went to the dealer to ask them but they were like: "no way you can do this at our workshop!" but they were kind enough to let me know from where to get one. Still was too expensive! I asked a friend who is a local JDM tuner, and he advised me to try to use another car as a source, as he was doing it also. So I used my daily SUV. To make sure you have a stable voltage, measure the voltage using a multimeter at your Z4M charging points: before connecting other car, after connecting other car, and after connecting and starting other car. Not all cars are stable enough, I'm lucky. If everything seems fine, proceed with reading your ECU while the other car is connected and running. Be careful, the terminals might get hot during this. The process of reading your ECU will take up to 40 minutes. Make sure your laptop is fully charged, connected to its power supply, and it won't turn off screen or go to sleep, standby, hibernate or whatever automatically. Do not disturb any of the cars or anything, and keep praying. Once it's completed, send the file to your tuner. In my next post I will show how to remove your stock intake manifold. Thanks, stay tuned. |
07-08-2015, 07:52 PM | #2 |
I plead the 5th.
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Woah, this should be an awesome DIY, thank you for posting! Looking forward to seeing the next steps.
Is your SUV on TE37 Gravels?
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07-09-2015, 06:28 AM | #3 |
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hanging out for the rest of the DIY. Hows Randy? how did you find the EPIC software? I have his box sitting on my desk.. waiting for a cool-ish day..
when are you in town from Oman mate, we can have a coffee and talk air boxes and Alpha N ;D
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07-09-2015, 05:12 PM | #4 | |
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Randy is a nice guy. If you mean by EPIC software the windows application, it pretty straight forward. Don't wait, do it. |
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07-09-2015, 08:28 PM | #5 |
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Removal of stock air filter and intake manifold:
I will not say which tools you should use, just prepare your self to have everything around you. Excuse me as I may not have gone in a specific order, but it did the job for me. Simply lift the radiator to expansion tank return line from the air filter box. All around. Lift up the lower plastic holder of the clamps upwards. I think they are total of 3. The clamps should be free now to pull away from the cover. Loose the bolt holding the elbow to the air filter box. You may continue to loose it by your hand. Loose the torx bolts holding your MAF sensor. Some models need a security torx as I heard but mine didn't. Other bolt also. Open the clip holding the coolant return line. Lift the hose. Pull the MAF sensor carefully. It might be stuck little as in my case. Handle the MAF sensor carefully. Do not damage it, it's an expensive part I heard. You may put the bolts back to avoid losing them. Make sure your clamps are set back. Wiggle the air filter cover. Your orange OEM filter. After removing the filter. Push these hard holders into the arrow direction. One of mine were broken. Once air box filter is removed. Now loose the other side of the elbow bolt. Use some thin hard plastic and insert it between the plastic ring and manifold. elbow lip------ plastic ring---- <-------tool manifold lip---- If you still can't remove it, then it's better to remove the clamp at all like I did. After you loose the elbow. There is one hose going into the elbow. Press the sides to remove it. Removed. After you remove the elbow you can look into your manifold. Found little oil in there, but I guess it's normal. Loose the chrome bolt holding the oil dipstick pipe. There is one air valve sitting on the edge of your intake manifold. Lift it from bottom. You could use something to hammer it up if it's stuck. Air valve removed. Now go to the back of your intake manifold and lift the hose up. Hose is free. Open the clip holding the electrical wires to your oil dipstick. Electrical wires free. Loosen the two bolts holding your intake manifold to the bracket. Front bolt. Rear bolt. Keep the bolts somewhere safe, you will need them later. There is another air valve underneath the intake manifold. From another view. Slide it, move side to side till gets out. After it pulls out. Now this connector is difficult to remove, unless you free up the intake manifold. Remove the throttle bodies clamps or destroy them like I did. Loose this connector to gain space for other clamps. Once you remove all clamps, pull your manifold away from the throttle bodies. Wait, don't try to pull it out of engine bay yet. Now go back to the hose near the alternator and you should be able to disconnect it now. There is a last hose going to bottom of the intake manifold. Another view. It is easier to disconnect from bottom instead of top. Now you pull out the intake manifold. You will surprised that it's heavy little. After removing. You can temporarily hook the MAF cable to a clip. It's really a good opportunity to clean your throttle bodies and other parts. In next post I will show you how to prepare and install your CF airbox. |
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07-10-2015, 12:55 PM | #7 |
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Damn. I could have used this two days ago. I just buttoned mine up again. Good detail on all the tricky bits. BTW, this tool makes installing the throttle body clamps a breeze:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30500-Bo...ot+Clamp+Plier |
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07-10-2015, 05:06 PM | #8 |
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Preparing for your airbox:
Okay, let's start with oil dipstick. I have seen some people bending or twisting their oil dipstick so they could install the airbox. My method doesn't require that! Follow the oil dipstick tube to the bottom. You will find a bolt on a black metal part shaped like a spanner securing the oil tube. Unfortunately I didn't take a picture before removing. If you are smart clean that area before, but don't use some solvent that could go into your oil. Loose the bolt and remove the metal part. Go back to the air valve which was under the intake manifold. Disconnect the connector, this will help so the line won't get in the way of the oil tube. Don't forget to connect it back later! Pull your oil tube. You could use a towel because it will be dripping oil, or just wait till is stops dripping. Cover all open holes with a tissue. Here is your oil dipstick tube. Now from an angle behind the tower struts between the ECU box and the radiator expansion tank/brake fluid tank(I guess), insert your oil tube. Rotate it. Find your way to reach the hole, and insert it simply. This how it should look after installing the metal part and bolt. Bottom. You could find somewhere along the tube to secure it, but I didn't do that. Let's go inside house, where it's cool. Flip your OEM intake manifold upside down. Disconnect the tube from where I am pointing, because we need to reuse the air valve. Note that in my case it was not possible to use the hole tube because the fitment is different inside the airbox from OEM. I didn't think of, so I just cut it, but you can use a hair dryer, I am sure it works. Loose the little rubber pieces near the body of the manifold. You might need a tool. Unpack your airbox. Loose the 6 bolts. Notice there is a shorter one. Remember it's location. I remember it was at the front. Tight the two rubber mounting pieces to your new airbox. These will sit on the bracket at the engine bay. If your seller supplied you with a tube, insert the air valve into it. Insert the other side to your airbox. This how it looks after connecting. Remove the filter to look into your airbox. My airbox came already mounted with the throttle bodies boots. Put on the other 6 clamps, but keep them little loose for flexibility. The IAT (Internal Air Temp) sensor. You could insert the IAT sensor if you want, I did just to test. Tight it. Next post will be about installing the airbox in the engine bay, doing the wiring, and uploading your tune. |
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07-10-2015, 05:08 PM | #9 | ||
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07-10-2015, 09:23 PM | #10 |
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Bloody great diy mate, takes all the guess work out of what we're doing. Very good. Also your the first one I've seen not bending the dips tick pipe. That's great. Keep up the great pics.. Very cool.
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07-11-2015, 01:07 AM | #11 |
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I read somewhere that standard hose clamps aren't recommended because there's a danger of distorting the throttle bodies and causing the throttle plates to rub.
Obviously, it's all in how you tighten them. Excellent thread!!
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07-11-2015, 04:44 PM | #12 | |
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They are danger if installed wrong location. Just keep the tightening bolt bit away and you should be fine. I will show it later. |
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07-12-2015, 05:10 PM | #13 |
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Installing the airbox:
Grab your airbox, because it's time to go outside to the hot weather again. There no way to show how to exactly install the airbox to the engine. Just try to mate it to the throttle bodies. Some have used soap or olive oil to slide the boots easier, but I didn't want. It just went on with some pushing and wiggling. Take your time. Loose the clamps little if required. Make sure the screws of the two rubber mounts is lined up with their location at the bracket underneath. They will help to guide. I did this way by installing the mounts before, because I think it's better than searching for the holes later. Front side mount. Rear side mount. If you find some resistance at the back side, then it's a cable plastic clamp behind the airbox. Open it and push the cable away. The cable is tight so I don't think the plastic clamp is required. After some sweat it was installed. In my case the hose connector near the alternator, refused to go in. So I removed a rubber gasket in it. It went in, and seems tight enough. View from inside airbox. Connect the air valve going down. If your are using same as my clamps, you must align them correctly. In picture below, right is correct, left is wrong. You don't want it to interfere with the black screw on the throttle shaft. Here you see the two ventilation pipes. Right is OEM, left is CSL. Unfortunately I have used another pipe because I damaged it by mistake while heating it. Refer the picture showing the airbox fully installed in to see the hose I used. Here is proof that you can open it using a hair dryer. Connect the hose on the side. The one which was on the elbow before. Insert the air filter. Almost done here, but we will jump to wiring now. For the wiring I had a good friend that is experienced in wiring to do it for me. The Bosch EV1 connector. A special tool is required to cramp the terminals to the wires, which my friend had. Don't attempt to do it by another way, it won't hold properly, or it will break. Also use the yellow weather insulators which came with the connector. Unfortunately I didn't take a pictures in the middle of doing it. The wires you use should have enough length to go under the snorkel part of the airbox reach the MAF connector. MAF Connector. Open about 1cm of the insulation of following wires: Yellow/Blue-Striped (Pin 1) and Brown (Pin 3). Do not cut them! It's not required really. Now if you don't have something to connect the wires like me, just tap them very securely. Do not solder them, the solder could act as permanent resistance which affect the IAT sensor readings. Doesn't matter which poles, as long one goes to the Yellow/Blue-Striped wire and other goes to the Brown wire. Tape everything very very securely. Go bring your snorkel part of the airbox, and install it. It's easy really. Make sure its fitted all around. Tight the screws. (Side note: For those who have same as my bonnet/hood this airbox will slightly rub, but I was able to install the mesh for that last opening.) Find some safe places to secure your IAT to MAF wire. Maybe use a double face tape or cable tie under the airbox. You don't want the wires to reach your engine belt. Completed the airbox installation. Installing your tune: If you are slow like me, by this time you should have received the tune file from your tuner. Follow the instructions from your tuner and my instructions in reading your ECU. (Again repeating, do not blame me if you damage your ECU). Uploading the tune to your ECU should take about 20 minutes. Once you are done, it's time to enjoy your airbox. Maybe when I get the opportunity I will post a video, but as others has said recording doesn't give it justice, it can only be enjoyed in real. I like the tune, it's smooth and amazing at high RPM's. I raised my RPM limit to 8000 only. "Full ears open, full throttle open " |
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07-15-2015, 09:06 AM | #14 |
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A W E S O M E !!!!!
thanks for the write up mate. Cant wait to install mine can I ask you what you got Randy to change in your tune? have you got anything else aside for the airbox? pipes? x-pipe? cams? give us a run down on the drive with the airbox in? whats it like mate? cheers V.
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07-18-2015, 03:51 PM | #15 | |
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I only got Fabspeed headers and RE Diablo cat-backs. I didn't ask him to change anything else, I only told him what is my setup. |
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01-23-2016, 10:39 AM | #16 |
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Great tutorial mate, very detailed and takes all the guess work out of it. many thanks.
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02-20-2016, 07:04 AM | #17 | |
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Whoever is going to follow my DIY please use loctite stuff on the four small screws that attaches the snorkel to the airbox (in line with filter) as the the airbox body vibrates in small motion and extremely quick like a bee which leads to the screws loosen up. This is natural behaviour as the airbox is thin. |
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02-21-2016, 09:01 AM | #19 |
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06-12-2018, 10:16 PM | #21 |
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Bringing this to the top as a few guys bought intakes recently.
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