Advice Needed: Cracked Block and Piston Head

[Twixboy]

Originally Posted by Beedub

whats a donk? i keep seeing this from you and wonder what on earth u mean?? lol

I had no idea what a bonnet or boot was until I bought my first European car. You just don't hear those terms being used on Honda forums, lol.

[Arsonism]

So It's been a month and I've gone through a ton of turmoil trying to find a solution for the car. Turns out I've gone with the most expensive option of all, and I may have burned a bridge along the way.

I looked into the following:
- Buying a new/used lower casting and using my old head (old as in 65k miles old)
- Buying a used S54 altogether
- Parting out from random cars around the internet
- Buying a new short block from BMW... and reusing my upper.

Last option, the most expensive of them all, has been my decision. It's taken me two months worth of research and waiting on bids. Literally scouring every single day to try to find a viable and less expensive option but that just hasn't been the case. The vehicle has been outside for some time and it's concerned me every minute that it's left there. There are some rainy months ahead and hail is known to fall randomly in Texas, although it generally holds off until the spring.

I've pulled the car from the shop (as of today) that I was having do a lot of the work and I feel may have caused the failure as I did my rod bearings with them last. They took the upper apart and put it on a crate for me after they removed the engine from the car. I have Mario with Active Auto Werks in Austin moving forward who will not only place the car indoors but will also clean and take care of everything from here on out. Rebuilding to putting it back into the car which I was going to have to perform in two different steps at two different shops. The new lower block should be coming in sometime in the middle of this month and he will be cleaning everything up until then. It's a hefty bill, but she'll live again and have essentially 0 miles on the engine when all is complete.

Dear lord has this been a wild ride. The things we do for love... right?

If I get some more photos and whatnot along the way I'll be sure to share. Thank you everyone for all your support in-so-far.

[66 6]

Have you looking into installing a 3.0si engine?

The M chassis and the M engine (remains) both have valve. People will buy an M car with a non M engine.

[Arsonism]

I'm not sure if my upper would work for the 3.0, but regardless I'm getting a pretty massive discount on the short block from BMW (which will also be under a two year warranty from the manufacturer). The rebuild for the upper is basically a cleaning, the new lower will have all new OEM rods/pistons, etc.

Really what it comes down to in that regard is that I wanted to and still want to keep the car as close to the original as possible. Given there are a few mods on the car, the heart and soul of it will be the same as it was originally produced. I don't know what to expect of the 3.0 but I'm sure it still surprises, I still have some add ons for the S54 that haven't been used yet, but I know the tune and a few other bits and pieces wouldn't be applicable to the 3.0. It is a good suggestion though!

[tiltmode43]

Congrats on getting this sorted, or at least on the road to having it sorted. There is some great advice in here and I'm a little late to the party but always recommend checking out car-part.com. It's basically a junkyard database across the US. Threads like this always make me concerned of my own car (I recently found out a past owner flogged it pretty hard on the track, often) so I did a quick search and found E46 M3 S54's ranging from 3-4.5k and Z4M S54's ranging from $4.5k-5.5k.

Either way, seems the route you're taking is going to be the safest long term option so 'grats to doing it right. What's the total bill looking like right now, if you don't mind sharing?

[Arsonism]

Originally Posted by tiltmode43

Either way, seems the route you're taking is going to be the safest long term option so 'grats to doing it right. What's the total bill looking like right now, if you don't mind sharing?

Total bill without some of the minor upgrades here and there (this includes the complete NEW lower minus the rods) is running just over 10k. With some new FCABs, ceracoating the headers and a few other things I'm pushing it to around 11.5 I think. I also still have the EPIC tune from Randy that I've got to install.

This is still in the works so I'll also throw an update out there, I apologize for the delayed response, I just got back from a 6 week long (and the craziest) military school I've ever been to and hopefully will ever go to.

I've had to order THREE... yep. THREE. Complete lowers through BMW of NA. The previous two have arrived damaged and have had to been sent back. The average shipping time has been around 10 days. We are working with them to get this one expedited but it has been since last Monday that we have been working on this. The last one that is coming off the shelves is the last S54 that Germany has, and the last one that can be warrantied. Hopefully they don't mess this one up.

Everything else has come back from the machine shop. The head, rods, and crank all looked perfect as quoted by the shop. That's all said and done so I'm extremely happy I can reuse those parts. Once this lower comes in everything else will come together (hopefully) rather quickly. I'll post some pictures of it here soon as I'm going down to Austin to visit them TOMORROW.

The new shop has been extremely responsive and has worked with me on a number of things. I'm hoping that all of the parts are there when he starts getting back to it and then we'll go through the notions if something is missing.

I'm not sure what to do with BMW of NA, they have been extremely disappointing in failing to deliver me a solid product and especially when it's actual cost is just north of 5 grand. I would like to call them and speak with them but I'm not sure the best course of action. There is already a serious discount to the part through the shop, but I wonder if there is anything else that I can do. Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks again everyone for all the support.

[DanFromTucson]

I'm in Austin too, so I'm curious what shop you are working with. I've been able to do all my repairs and maintenance myself, but it would be good to know someone who is familiar with our cars if I ever need something and don't have time to do it myself.

Good luck!

[Arsonism]

If you ever truly need it, Active Motor Werks. They've been tremendous guys in so far.

Also, should anyone have suggestions on clutch replacements I'd like to hear them.

[Westersund]

Don't forget to make a nice living room table of the cracked block.

[Arsonism]

I had forgotten about that! I will have to run it by the girl friend

[Vanne]

Originally Posted by Arsonism

I had forgotten about that! I will have to run it by the girl friend

LOL

Come on man, give it to her as a surprise, she will love a coffee table like that.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by Arsonism

I had forgotten about that! I will have to run it by the girl friend

I almost got my hands on a cracked S38B38 engine block from an E34 M5 but it slipped through my fingers. I think it looks awesome. It's going to be one heavy piece of furniture though, more than 70 kg's.

[Arsonism]

Turns out she's game for the idea, I'll be putting it in the game room after some serious cleaning. I'll have to hit it with a de-greaser for a week or something.


Other news, decided to move forward with a new UUC clutch and flywheel. Working out the details now, but it should bump the overall cost to around 12. Crazy to think about it. Still haven't heard on the new block coming from ze motherland. We were supposed to have an ETA today. I'll keep y'all posted.

[Beedub]

UUC products worry me tbh..... not a great reputation for quality parts.

[Westersund]

Originally Posted by Arsonism

Turns out she's game for the idea, I'll be putting it in the game room after some serious cleaning. I'll have to hit it with a de-greaser for a week or something.

Please let me know how it turns out! Looking forward to it.

[Vanne]

wow, going to be an epic build.. have you thought while the whole thing is apart to chuck in some CSL cams?

[Arsonism]

Originally Posted by Beedub

UUC products worry me tbh..... not a great reputation for quality parts.

The other options I found outside of UUC was SPEC and I haven't heard/used a lot of their options. They haven't been around for as long, but I'm open to suggestions. I gave it the college try to look for a segmented kevlar clutch (could only find it in puck form) and settled with an organic replacement. Is there another brand you'd replace it with instead? I'm just not as experienced on aftermarket clutches honestly.

Originally Posted by Vanne

wow, going to be an epic build.. have you thought while the whole thing is apart to chuck in some CSL cams?

I hadn't thought to do that, there's still plenty of time. The old cam was good and was just remachined and originally I had tried to keep this cost as low as possible. It was only when I looked at the flywheel that I saw the hot spots that merited a new clutch assembly. I don't know if I can cough up another 2 grand for the new cam haha, I'll see what they have laying around and if there's a set out there that looks good I might put it together. If you can think of anything else throw it my way, I'm not shy to spend what I need here... this is going to be kept forever so all that's fair goes.

[Vanne]

any word back on that ETA? yeah, your right, the original cams are pretty darn good too

in regards to the flywheel and such, my mate has just gone back to stock flywheel from one of those race UUC flywheels due solely to the noise and chatter.. (think dry clutch duke x 5)

its bloody noisy...

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Arsonism

The other options I found outside of UUC was SPEC and I haven't heard/used a lot of their options. They haven't been around for as long, but I'm open to suggestions. I gave it the college try to look for a segmented kevlar clutch (could only find it in puck form) and settled with an organic replacement. Is there another brand you'd replace it with instead? I'm just not as experienced on aftermarket clutches honestly.



I hadn't thought to do that, there's still plenty of time. The old cam was good and was just remachined and originally I had tried to keep this cost as low as possible. It was only when I looked at the flywheel that I saw the hot spots that merited a new clutch assembly. I don't know if I can cough up another 2 grand for the new cam haha, I'll see what they have laying around and if there's a set out there that looks good I might put it together. If you can think of anything else throw it my way, I'm not shy to spend what I need here... this is going to be kept forever so all that's fair goes.

contact george aka gmd s/c owner... found an oem clutch build to withstand higher forces. this is the one id go with!

[Arsonism]

Originally Posted by Vanne

any word back on that ETA? yeah, your right, the original cams are pretty darn good too

in regards to the flywheel and such, my mate has just gone back to stock flywheel from one of those race UUC flywheels due solely to the noise and chatter.. (think dry clutch duke x 5)

its bloody noisy...

The THIRD lower just came in yesterday and he looked over it, the did a very good job on shipping this unit and they will begin working on the car NLT Tuesday next week.

Did your buddy grab just the flywheel or the flywheel AND the new clutch assembly? My understanding is that they make a huge difference when they are paired together but apart they can cause some serious chatter.

Originally Posted by Beedub

contact george aka gmd s/c owner... found an oem clutch build to withstand higher forces. this is the one id go with!

I'm assuming you're referring to gmd2003? I'll gladly give him a shout and talk with him about clutches, I really do not have enough knowledge here, and thank you!


After neglecting to dig around, I believe I have found the two most comprehensive guides and Georges as well as pokeybritches write ups. They have been immensely helpful in understanding what to expect with lighter flywheels and organic clutch assemblies.

Both threads are here:
(http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=938750)
(http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1092418)

And I seriously can't thank them enough for taking the time to speak to their experiences.

I sourced an organic and light weight flywheel combo from UUC and I'm rather excited about it. I think that I will end up being one of the few with it and I'm confident in the decision to go forward with it. I will for sure write up my experiences with the new set up and mods to continue other's purchases in the future.

I've heard some bad things about UUC and other's experiences which I would like to hear more about, but for the time being, I feel I've sort of committed to their product so far. Again, should anyone have definitive advice to suggest not using their products, I would sincerely appreciate the intel.

[pokeybritches]

I think a medium weight solid steel flywheel would be the best of both worlds.

[Arsonism]

Originally Posted by pokeybritches

I think a medium weight solid steel flywheel would be the best of both worlds.

I think this is what the shop and I have been looking at.

http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/light...oupe-p668.aspx

They're supposed to let me know what kind of deal they can strike and I might opt for the performance (just one step up). I'm not sure what flywheel weights they have, but I'll be looking into that as well if I don't hear back from them soon.