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11-17-2013, 02:40 AM | #1123 |
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tom...... hold fire... found a company that will machine us a complete 8 rib setup!!! ones been done already here!! looks good, every pulley CNC cut...
wow wow wow wow..... heres a pic of a 15lb boost 8 rib setup they did for an ess vt-500, still using v3si!!!! New bespoke pulleys to achieve c. 15psi boost. These are now for an 8-rib belt, rather than the old 6-rib one, which should help prevent slipping at high rpm... im going to call them about knocking me up a 10lbs setup.. tom youve inspired me, its time to leave Ess behind and go forth with our quest for power, the hard bits are in place now, but i do think the cooler needs to be upgraded, as will the oil cooler, radiator!! just look at those pulleys!! lovely lovely!!
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11-17-2013, 10:18 AM | #1124 | |
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forget 10psi. go for 12 and be happy for years to come. The stock engine can hold 520rwhp safely according to JAWS.
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11-17-2013, 12:31 PM | #1125 |
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Holy hell... how do you guys keep traction? I have a hard time on 265 Pilot SS and 6 psi in the summer.
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11-17-2013, 03:28 PM | #1126 |
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sticky tires and a patient foot
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11-17-2013, 03:30 PM | #1127 | ||
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11-22-2013, 02:08 AM | #1130 |
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Did you try local machine shops?
The pulley in itself is pretty simple. The real trick is to find a machine shop that can turn the pk rib profile on a lathe. I think it's a 40deg profile, so you can't make that with an ordinary lathe bit. (having a CAD model doesn't change that) Exact specs for the PK profile are in/according to DIN 7867. On the other hand: if that ESS pulley is exactly the specs you want (or if you can order that made to order) I'd go for that for $500.
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Z4 3.0i | ESS TS2+ supercharger | Quaife ATB LSD | Brembo/BMW performance BBK front/rear | Schrick FI cams | Schmiedmann headers+cats | Powerflex/strongflex PU bushings | Vibra-technics engine mounts | H&R anti rollbars | KW V3 coilovers/KW camber plates | Sachs race engineering clutch | tons of custom sh#t
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11-22-2013, 12:44 PM | #1131 | |
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One of my metal lines going to the oil cooler has rubbed long enough on the wheel liner, to rub off enough to develop a small pin-hole size leak. what the fuck. I patched it up with rubber tape and a clamp. hope its not a high pressure area. Will see how much those parts cost to replace, and next time make a bracket to push them away from the wheel liner
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11-22-2013, 01:31 PM | #1132 |
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31,000 views....
impressive!!
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11-22-2013, 02:25 PM | #1133 | |
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No oil pressure=almost instant engine seize when under load. (but then there is a considerable leak, or you could run out of oil of course. Small leaks can turn into bigger leaks because the oil is pressurized) If the lines are expensive (of course they are....) you could try to weld them or braze them (both require an experienced welder), or you could put in a pipe fitting (clamp type). New lines is the best solution of course. It is the high pressure area because they are the outlet at the filter housing and the filter is the first thing in line after the oil pump (at least: that's the normal way in an engine).
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Z4 3.0i | ESS TS2+ supercharger | Quaife ATB LSD | Brembo/BMW performance BBK front/rear | Schrick FI cams | Schmiedmann headers+cats | Powerflex/strongflex PU bushings | Vibra-technics engine mounts | H&R anti rollbars | KW V3 coilovers/KW camber plates | Sachs race engineering clutch | tons of custom sh#t
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11-22-2013, 03:44 PM | #1134 | |
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11-23-2013, 03:01 AM | #1136 |
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tom , how does a thin plastic liner rub through a metal line??? are you sure your wide tyres arent pushing the liner against this????
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11-23-2013, 03:20 PM | #1137 |
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I think the tires are putting pressure on the liner, and pushing into the lines
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11-23-2013, 03:23 PM | #1138 |
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So today I had my car towed again..
I tried to start it, clicked 2 times. Tried again and it started up a few minutes later. While driving 100 yards, the engine RPM dropped to 0 and the car stalled. I was sure that I seized my engine due to the oil leak. Checked the pipe, no leaks. Checked the oil, normal level. Called a tow truck to tow to the dealership, already in my head thinking about the cost of a new engine and about getting rid of the fucking thing. A mechanic friend suggested it could be the alternator, combined with my tiny 11lbs battery. Sure enough, I was able to jump start the car and it settled into a nice idle. So the engine is fine, thank God. I do need a new alternator though, based on what I've experienced, correct me if I'm wrong. Whats the best source? 150 amps? is there a lightweight version available? Ecs tuning has a reconditioned one for $530, Ebay has one for $300 http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-GE...55c15b&vxp=mtr
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11-27-2013, 07:45 PM | #1141 |
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New alternator is in, car is back on the road. Had to loosen an engine mount, and jack up the engine a few inches to get the bolt holding the alternator in. Supercharger had to come out too with its bracket
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12-08-2013, 07:51 PM | #1142 |
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wiped down the interior, washed the outside, wiped down the engine bay. Went to a 600+ people custom car show. Walked around, only saw a handful of BMWs, decided to upgrade my ticket and enter my car. BOOM!
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12-09-2013, 04:02 AM | #1143 | |
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In my other post i said vac mls 0.7. It is a VAC Motorsport steel multilayer gasket 0.7 above oem gasket to raise a the engine head and decrease a tad the compression ratio. I know that it is pretty common on other engines to run safe +15lbs just with a higher head gasket. Congrats for the award. |
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12-09-2013, 08:29 AM | #1144 | ||
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As per your question about boost, my boost isn't maxing out because i'm on a custom, 2.87" pulley which is coated to not slip, but still slips. Too small, but i got a really good bump in midrange boost Originally, i had a less aggressive pulley setup than Bdubb, so my max of 7psi was correct for the sizes. Measure your crank and supercharger pulleys and compare them to the chart i posted before
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