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10-19-2013, 04:16 PM | #1035 |
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this is the part that broke off from the oil filter housing, on the long bolt from the hydraulic tensioner. Maybe it needs a steel re-inforcement plate in front of it, if that doesn't move the pulley too far off the belt.
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10-19-2013, 11:39 PM | #1036 |
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Ouch. I hadn't heard of this before. Have you checked the M3 forums?
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10-23-2013, 07:00 PM | #1037 | |
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I'm wondering if a lack of locktite on the bolts wiggled them free, and then the extra play allowed them to rip out from the base. I'm definitely putting blue locktite on next time. My NEW $360 oem oil filter housing arrives tomorrow. I'm gonna ask my local shop if they can fabricate a steel reinforcement plate for the front of it, without moving the pulley off the belt. Not sure if possible. Not much you can do with the back. During the downtime I installed a new horn, washed my dirty air filter, and relocated my disconnected meth injection pump from the engine bay to a hidden area behind the bumper Budget permitting, I'm gonna have the shop install my new 9-10psi pulley and upgraded fuel pump while they have the car. Then I'll drive it under 5000rpm for a while for the tune to adjust, and then dyno tune it. Assuming everything goes to plan
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10-23-2013, 07:31 PM | #1038 |
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Casting
The cast part looks funny where it is broken - maybe just a poor make, Your a brave man all the extra power and electronics make the car a monster but much more liable for trouble. I should talk with the 445 but anytime I push a car it ends up having more problems with stock and maybe if they wanted these cars to have that power and FI - BMW would have done it
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10-23-2013, 08:05 PM | #1039 | |
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This is my second broken oil filter housing. Wish I knew the cause. I didn't have extensive belt strain on it
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10-23-2013, 10:14 PM | #1040 |
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I can only find one example of this happening to someone else.
My guess is replacing the first one, with a USED one, was a bad idea. I'm guessing aluminium fatigue came into play
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10-24-2013, 09:09 AM | #1041 |
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Maybe also replace the bolt. Make sure there is enough tread on the bolt.
If the bolt would be slightly too long (maybe a mismake or so), part of the bolt with no thread is screwed into the threaded hole (which could put extra strain on it). Not saying that this is happening, you could look at it.
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10-24-2013, 05:09 PM | #1043 |
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I wonder why half of the threads on the broken piece look light, and the others dark... this must mean something
Before the new one is installed, I'm gonna see how far the OEM bolt reaches into the thread. Maybe it slowly worked itself out
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10-25-2013, 03:02 AM | #1044 |
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im checking Tq on these monthly, how often are you re-tqing the bracket bolts?? theirs alot of heat/vibration going on....
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10-25-2013, 08:48 AM | #1045 |
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I kinda put it in and left it....
I got my new oil filter housing in the mail today, and the part that broke off appears to be less supported on the old one I have. Can't verify until it is out of the car though. VAC motorsports said they serviced thousands of BMW, and only saw this occur 4 times, never twice on one car. Sounds like bad luck was also involved
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10-25-2013, 08:50 AM | #1046 |
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If you are talking about the long bolt that hold a pulley, sc bracket, alternator and filter housing, my car also broke the filter hosing in that spot. Instead of buying a new part, i went to a professional welder to fix that part and make it stronger than oem. In the end it was a cheaper fix with more ability to handle the extra load of the sc bracket.
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10-25-2013, 10:24 AM | #1047 | |
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Same spot as in my picture? I don't think it touches the sc bracket or alternator. From my understanding it attaches the top of the hydraulic tensioner to the oil filter housing and thats it
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10-25-2013, 11:18 AM | #1048 |
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I've welded my oilfilter housing too. Not the same hole, and another reason for cracking (ess sent the wrong bolt in their kit), but it's perfectly weldable if you can handle an AC tig set, and probably stronger indeed. The bmw cast alu parts are not made from the best materials imho. You can also see that the way they corrode. The block (at least the m54; the s54 is iron of course) and the head are made of much better aluminium alloys than the rest of the castings.
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10-26-2013, 09:29 PM | #1049 |
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New oil filter housing is in. I WISH I bought a new one the first time. Believe it or not, the new one is substantially better designed to prevent this from happening. Old one was from 2006. I was going to have a welder re-inforce the new one I'm putting in, but I don't think that will be necessary.
Also new pulley is in it came out very easily with my low profile puller, while the supercharger was out of the car. Fuel pump goes in next week, so I'm only taking it to 5500rpm and only partial throttle. Already making about 5psi at 5000-5500. Peak before was 6.5-7 at 8000. I really got lucky picking the correct belt size!! I bought 2, and the smaller one took about half the tension arm swing from the hydraulic tensioner. I can tell the car is still adapting, as there's some hesitation around 2000-2500rpm. Pics of everything to follow
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10-26-2013, 09:35 PM | #1050 |
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Glad it's all sorted out finally.
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10-26-2013, 11:24 PM | #1052 | |
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A new thread would be easier to follow. An old thread with 30k views is also tempting to build further. Maybe just a thread title change I really wish I didn't break my oil cooler, that was my whole tune budget. That'll have to wait another 4-8 weeks while I take it easy and don't redline the car Here's my chart. I don't think my RMS numbers are right
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10-27-2013, 07:56 AM | #1053 |
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Pressure
I know the boost pressure is all mechanical but do you not still have to have the ECU remapped for appropriate fuel injection, timing etc??
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10-27-2013, 04:54 PM | #1054 | |
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So far im reaching 5-6psi before 6500rpm with partial throttle. 75% throttle, 4500rpm and the tires are slipping
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10-27-2013, 07:40 PM | #1055 | |
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Just fuel pump or also bigger fuel lines and lower fpr? Which pump? Radium? |
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10-27-2013, 09:08 PM | #1056 | |
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Just fuel pump Aeromotive 11140, as per another member who upgaraded his
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