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      08-11-2012, 07:19 PM   #1
inTgr8r
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DIY Gauges Install - S54

Part 1 Air Collector removal


If you looked at the other thread I posted, I considered other possibilities for the sender location.

One definite thing for me was that it had to be an OE like install.
That ruled out the filter lid kits!

I was somewhat reluctant to use the spare port available under the air collector, only because it looked like a BIG job to take it off to gain access to the oil pressure point location.
The thing that I was most concerned about were those flush Oetiker clamps on the intake runners.
As it turned out, it was pretty easy to get the collector off.

The first thing is the air filter box, disconnect the MAF sensor & remove the flex elbow to the air collector.

...then

The Oetiker clamps on the intake runners.
I bought a tool for these & found that it wasn't much good due to the restricted access with all the tubing running through that area.
I found that good ole needle nose pliers and a small blade screw driver worked just fine.

The first thing I had to figure out was how they actually clipped together (thanks google).
This is the first clip I took off, you can see how the lower band locks into the upper....



To release the clamp I found that squeezing the back clips made it easier to release the lock with a small flat screw driver.
My first attempt was to squeeze the front clips but that just kept the pressure down & it wouldn't release very easily.



..putting them back on I will use the front clips. It should make it easier to lock in place.






The air collector...
Once the intake runner clamps are off, there are several other things to disconnect.
- the oil dipstick tube where it bolts to the collector
- the bottom support bracket (2 nuts)
- several tubes, which generally have some sort of quick connect.

after all that you will end up with this
(arrows show bottom tubes & lower bracket)





...the bonus
The left side engine mount bolts are fully exposed.
time for some preemptive mtce.
- my bolts were barely more than snug

10.9 s installed
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Last edited by inTgr8r; 08-11-2012 at 08:06 PM.
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      08-11-2012, 07:20 PM   #2
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Part 2 Oil Pressure Sender Install

This was a two step process.
The spare oil port is at the back, behind the OE oil pressure switch.




Since the space at the back is limited & the OE pressure switch is smaller than the new pressure sender,
I relocated the OE switch to the back port & installed the new pressure sender in the front port.

The threads for these ports are M12 1.5 straight (not tapered)

The biggest challenge I had was installing the sender adapter.
The adapter is a 90° port adapter so that there is more room for the sender.
The challenge was to get the port oriented in the right direction with the fitting tightened.

In the manufacturing process, it's completely random how the threads are cut & the direction of the port will be different for every block.

I was fortunate that I had a selection of machined sealing washers of varying thickness (luck.. not good planning)

This is the result....
(wire connector plugged in temporarily)

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      08-11-2012, 07:21 PM   #3
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Part 3 Coolant Temperature sender install

Temperature install was pretty straight forward.
-step one is to drain the coolant; there a DIY already posted for this...(another maintenance item off the list)

Block drain bolt
The drain bolt is located on the right side directly above the the engine mount & the canister.
(canister pushed up & bracket removed)

It also makes it easier to maneuver with the ground strap removed from the engine mount (blue arrow)



Coolant temperature sender installed





Sender complete with thermal protection




After that just run the wires & button things up.
I brought the wires forward then back behind the heat shield.


.
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      08-11-2012, 07:21 PM   #4
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Part 4 Interior

..in progress
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      08-11-2012, 11:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
Part 1 Air Collector removal

The Oetiker clamps on the intake runners.
I bought a tool for these & found that it wasn't much good due to the restricted access with all the tubing running through that area.
I found that good ole needle nose pliers and a small blade screw driver worked just fine.

The first thing I had to figure out was how they actually clipped together (thanks google).
This is the first clip I took off, you can see how the lower band locks into the upper....



To release the clamp I found that squeezing the back clips made it easier to release the lock with a small flat screw driver.
My first attempt was to squeeze the front clips but that just kept the pressure down & it wouldn't release very easily.



..putting them back on I will use the front clips. It should make it easier to lock in place.

[IMG]http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k76/inTgr8r/Mods/e7ee0b74.jpg/IMG]
Should replace clamps.

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      08-12-2012, 08:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
Should replace clamps.
Thanks Ron, I wondered about that.
TIS usually mentions one time use, but I couldnt find that.

Also....
It looks like a wax like lube was on the intake runners when I disassembled.
I didn't see anything in TIS about assembly lube.
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      08-12-2012, 09:03 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
Thanks Ron, I wondered about that.
TIS usually mentions one time use, but I couldnt find that.

Also....
It looks like a wax like lube was on the intake runners when I disassembled.
I didn't see anything in TIS about assembly lube.
Me neither.
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      08-12-2012, 09:05 AM   #8
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nice info.... FYI the stock sender is for low oil pressure warning, it comes in @ 9psi......
from this location your getting oil pressure under its 100% flow so you can monitor it very accurately, you should be seeing 18-20ish @ hot idle.... ive set my stock pro gauge to warn me @ 16psi idle and 90psi top end, the engine produces around 80-82psi under full load, if i Ever see my warning light on the gauge light, i will take the car to a shop, one of the best purchases of made....
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      08-12-2012, 09:10 AM   #9
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^thanks... bad assumption on my part. fixed


..programmable Colour change on alam is a feature that I love on the 3500 series Stack gauges
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Last edited by inTgr8r; 08-12-2012 at 12:06 PM.
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      08-12-2012, 07:21 PM   #10
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coolant sender added
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      08-12-2012, 07:33 PM   #11
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Wondered what you've been up to! Got home earlier from the Muskoka golf trip. Great DIY
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      08-13-2012, 01:29 AM   #12
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Wow, great DIY, can't wait for the next bit!
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      08-13-2012, 08:08 AM   #13
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ian how do you like the quality of the oil pressure block..... i was very pleased, looked oem quality, and love the fact that this thing will never need to be bother again..... if the sender goes bad, its a 5min job to swap out.
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      08-13-2012, 08:25 AM   #14
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yeah, I'm hooked also! Can't wait to see the final interior pics along with the details of where you got everything. Does the stack gauge kits come with the sender adapter for oil pressure?

I've been looking at different solutions to give me more indications of how the car is doing while I'm driving (oil pressure and coolant temp).
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      08-13-2012, 08:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim View Post
yeah, I'm hooked also! Can't wait to see the final interior pics along with the details of where you got everything. Does the stack gauge kits come with the sender adapter for oil pressure?

I've been looking at different solutions to give me more indications of how the car is doing while I'm driving (oil pressure and coolant temp).
i shipped ian the oil pressure block..... most companies are charging stupid money for these over complicated distributor blocks that just arent needed.
i lucked out and found a cheap setup and works and works perfectly..... ians block is a uk part, shipped via me.... i cant remember how much it cost all in, 24 bucks all in i think, shipping ect ect... i tell lies to get the part sent with no import duties. lol.
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      08-13-2012, 05:47 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
i shipped ian the oil pressure block..... most companies are charging stupid money for these over complicated distributor blocks that just arent needed.
i lucked out and found a cheap setup and works and works perfectly..... ians block is a uk part, shipped via me.... i cant remember how much it cost all in, 24 bucks all in i think, shipping ect ect... i tell lies to get the part sent with no import duties. lol.
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      08-26-2012, 07:01 AM   #17
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bump..... any more work on this?? well done BTW for tackling this!!
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      08-26-2012, 08:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
bump..... any more work on this?? well done BTW for tackling this!!
Things have stalled for a bit.
One of the Stack gauges came in wrong, waiting for the correct one to arrive.
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      08-26-2012, 03:53 PM   #19
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updated...
thermal sender complete with thermal protection.
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      12-02-2012, 09:34 AM   #20
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ian... did you get any pics of the sender block i sent you???

im trying to remember if the top whole when straight through or had a seated area.... i pretty certain is had a seated area.... why i ask is i need to nip mine up slightly, but if it does have a seated area inside that top 1/8npt thread i'll leave it alone.... i know some of them blocks the 1/8npt thread at the top was cut right through the block piece.

pretty certain it had thread then a seating area at the bottom. can you confirm???
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      12-02-2012, 09:36 AM   #21
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arhhhh looks like it has a seating area as i thought...

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      12-02-2012, 10:00 AM   #22
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Ahhhh, you found a pic.
The only ones I have are what's posted.

This is a straight thread fitting (not tapered pipe thread), so it relies on the washer for the seal.

With mine I had to add a shim washer on the seating area to get the correct orientation.
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