ZPOST
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read


Go Back   ZPOST > BMW Z4 Roadster and Coupe > Z4 DIY (Do It Yourself) Articles
  TireRack

SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS!
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      04-30-2011, 05:03 PM   #23
Jokin
New Member
Germany
0
Rep
5
Posts

Drives: BMW Z4 2.5i LPG
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Germany, Hanover

iTrader: (0)

In the meantime a solution is documented removing the softtop motor without removing the softtop.

My English is not very well, so sorry for posting German sites but with some pictures:
http://www.zwiki.net/index.php/Hydraulikpumpe_defekt

=> exactly: http://www.zroadster.com/forum/index...ng-anbei.79900

In words:
Just remove 4 Clips and remve the softtop compartment floor.
Then remove the compartment left and you can see the sound insulation.

Now you have to cut the upper cable tie and destroy the lower cable tie.

At the last you install the motor in the boot and it will be dry for the rest of the car-life.

best regards,
Frank
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2011, 03:10 PM   #24
andysat
Lieutenant
12
Rep
591
Posts

Drives: e93
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East Yorks

iTrader: (0)

Hi -is this really possible??
Appreciate 0
      05-02-2011, 04:29 PM   #25
Shipkiller
Colonel
Shipkiller's Avatar
United_States
125
Rep
2,134
Posts

Drives: Me
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Virginia Beach

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by andysat View Post
Hi -is this really possible??
Is what possible? The fix in the DIY or his way?
Appreciate 0
      05-03-2011, 03:31 PM   #26
andysat
Lieutenant
12
Rep
591
Posts

Drives: e93
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East Yorks

iTrader: (0)

His way???
Appreciate 0
      05-03-2011, 03:35 PM   #27
Shipkiller
Colonel
Shipkiller's Avatar
United_States
125
Rep
2,134
Posts

Drives: Me
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Virginia Beach

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
From what I can gather since I don't read german, is that they were able to remove the motor from the car without removing the top.

I think this is doable since they did it, but I see a lot of drawbacks to this method.

I am not sure how long it took but most people who have responded stating that when they read the DIY several times and understand what is to be done, it only takes about an hour to two to get the top out of the car. It took me six hours since I was the first....
Appreciate 0
      05-06-2011, 03:30 PM   #28
andysat
Lieutenant
12
Rep
591
Posts

Drives: e93
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: East Yorks

iTrader: (0)

Cheers Shipkiller-i just need to learn german now!
Appreciate 0
      06-08-2011, 01:32 PM   #29
ZZZZ
Lieutenant
13
Rep
584
Posts

Drives: Z4 3.0i winterbeater
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Toronto, Ontario

iTrader: (1)

It almost seems like it would be more difficult for bigger people (like me) to replace the motor from the trunk. I'll go Shipkiller's route.
Appreciate 0
      02-01-2012, 05:17 PM   #30
vevey710
Registered
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: Black 2005 Z4 3.0
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Illinois

iTrader: (0)

How to remove Z4 softtop motor

Hi, I cant download the photos from Shipkiller on this subject
Appreciate 0
      02-01-2012, 06:20 PM   #31
Shipkiller
Colonel
Shipkiller's Avatar
United_States
125
Rep
2,134
Posts

Drives: Me
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Virginia Beach

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by vevey710 View Post
Hi, I cant download the photos from Shipkiller on this subject
The site has moved to a dedicated web host so some of the links may have changed from the links posted in older threads..

Have you gone to the web site?
Appreciate 0
      02-01-2012, 06:39 PM   #32
vevey710
Registered
0
Rep
2
Posts

Drives: Black 2005 Z4 3.0
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Illinois

iTrader: (0)

do you have a link to it ?
Appreciate 0
      02-01-2012, 07:45 PM   #33
Shipkiller
Colonel
Shipkiller's Avatar
United_States
125
Rep
2,134
Posts

Drives: Me
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Virginia Beach

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
www.shipkiller.com
Appreciate 0
      02-02-2012, 03:00 PM   #34
Stromtech
Private
Stromtech's Avatar
0
Rep
69
Posts

Drives: 2004 Z4 3.0i 6-speed Sport
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Victoria BC

iTrader: (0)

I was talking to my Indy the other day when I was having belts replaced and he told me he replaces the top motors without removing the top. He accesses the motor through the trunk. He said it's tight to work that way but in his opinion it's a better approach because you don't have any top adjustment issues afterward. Guess I'll find out if and when my top motor gives up...in the meantime I'll clean the drains once a year using Shipkiller's great DIY.
Appreciate 0
      02-05-2012, 02:58 AM   #35
AirOpsMgr
Private First Class
AirOpsMgr's Avatar
United_States
11
Rep
151
Posts

Drives: 2006 Z4 3.0i
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: McDonough, GA

iTrader: (0)

I am one of the VERY fortunate ones who was able to use ShipKiller's DIY to do mine and save a pant-load of cash (thnx again Ship!!! ) ..... I find it VERY hard to phathom that this can be done without removing the top as I had a heck of a time just dropping into the trunk to remove the hoop - not sure how they access & free the housing (unless doing it blind).

I was, however, able to do it without removing the whole top - I raised the driver's side up just enough to access the motor, probablly not recommended (as removing entirely is the safest bet) but I was a 1 man team at the time.

As for keeping the drains clean, I suggest a monthly visit in that department depending on your possible contaminants; I always seem to dig/push something out of the drains on a monthly basis.

I've learned that the trick to this is to wash the car, then come back to it about 20-30 minutes later and see if you still have a puddle developing fwd of the rear wheel wells .... if so, your drains aren't draining well enough.
Appreciate 0
      03-23-2012, 03:01 PM   #36
kaarebeate
New Member
Norway
0
Rep
6
Posts

Drives: E85Roadster, E60
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Norway

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
The system is self bleeding.
Sure??

I have replaced the motor and put it together again. but my top only goes half up! then it take a break before it goes all the way up. and the motor is more noisy when the roof stops half way. how can I help it with the bleeding??
__________________
Appreciate 0
      03-24-2012, 01:33 PM   #37
kaarebeate
New Member
Norway
0
Rep
6
Posts

Drives: E85Roadster, E60
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Norway

iTrader: (0)

Problem solved

My hydraul-level was low. Took off the hood and refilled it, Now it is as good as new!

Thanks for your guide, I could not do this job whitout it!!

Saved me a lot of money!!
__________________
Appreciate 0
      03-25-2012, 10:14 AM   #38
RecycledTeen
Private First Class
RecycledTeen's Avatar
United_States
13
Rep
165
Posts

Drives: Looking for E85
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Tampa, FL area

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear, and to add another "fix" to the mix. Be sure to check system well for leaks since the closed system should never go low. I'm dealing with leak issue myself and hope to resolve soon (with much help from these DiYs)!
Appreciate 0
      05-13-2012, 07:01 AM   #39
plynch1036
Registered
0
Rep
1
Posts

Drives: 2006 Z4 3.oi
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Andover

iTrader: (0)

Google translate

Quote:
Originally Posted by andysat View Post
Cheers Shipkiller-i just need to learn german now!
Google translate may help
Appreciate 0
      08-31-2015, 08:05 PM   #40
Z4speedster
New Member
0
Rep
5
Posts

Drives: 2004 Z4 BMW 2.5i
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: west linn or.

iTrader: (0)

Is there a way to test the convertible top motor before you put it back in the car ?
Appreciate 0
      08-31-2015, 10:48 PM   #41
MarkMcL
Enlisted Member
0
Rep
31
Posts

Drives: '06 Z4M
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: OH-IO

iTrader: (1)

Appreciate 0
      09-20-2015, 12:29 AM   #42
Z4speedster
New Member
0
Rep
5
Posts

Drives: 2004 Z4 BMW 2.5i
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: west linn or.

iTrader: (0)

Hello ,I to am fighting with the convertible top on my 2004 Z4. I followed all the instructions and pictures that Shipkiller provided. Thank you again for everything ! I was able to remove the top and found that the motor was full of corrosion and water. I,m pretty handy when it comes these types of things. After a little research I was able to rebuild the hydroelectric motor. Then used a jump wire from the battery to test it and it worked great. Then I made sure that system was was full of hydraulic fluid and all sealed up. Was able to get everything put back together , testing the motor periodically. Once everything was buttoned up I hooked all the electrical up. Pretty easy since they only fit with their matching plugs. Also made sure the micro switch in the trunk was working. Then everything went south and my car was haunted. When the top was down and locked I would have to use the jump wire to the appropriate plug-end to unlock the latches. When I pushed the down button on the console the top comes up. And then won't go back up. Again when I use the jump wire it operate s just fine. Only now I have no lights on the console. I'm wondering if it could the white box on the driver side that controls the top I think. I'm getting ready to do it all over again unless some can please help me.
Appreciate 0
      10-11-2015, 01:10 AM   #43
rsutoratosu
First Lieutenant
16
Rep
332
Posts

Drives: Z4 3.0i
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chicago, IL

iTrader: (0)

Holy cow, I took a look today at the trunk and I see it right in the trunk.. omg. i might be going through the trunk... ill have to wait till next spring to do it..
__________________
-Roranji
Appreciate 0
      08-11-2017, 01:37 AM   #44
arloga
Registered
0
Rep
1
Posts

Drives: BMW Z4 2004 E85 2.5I M54
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: MEXICO

iTrader: (0)

Why I can't see your pictures?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
Part II of the Softtop fix.

Replacing the motor.



Tools:
Screw drivers (Flathead and Phillips)
Metric Sockets and Wrench's.
Metric Allen Wrench's
Razor Blades or equivalent.
Flashlights or Drop lights

Parts Needed: (Refer to Drawing: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...13&hg=54&fg=10)
Use your VIN number to for the most up to date drawing and part numbers from RealOEM................


Some Tie-Wraps or tape.
Rags.
A new motor. No. ONE on the drawing.........There are different P/N's for different years.
A new Sound Isolation. No. Eight on the drawing.........This is the protective case/housing that the motor reside in. The existing case has sound isolation foam in it. The foam is waterlogged, very dirty/rusty and will take days to properly dry out.
Go ahead, spend the extra money and just replace it......Do you really want to do this AGAIN?


Extras:
A tube of RTV. This is used in case you want to SEAL the motor housing so you do not have to do this again......

Like I said in the Soft Top removal How-To, take pictures of the motor wiring and hydraulic lines for reassembly....

A picture of the motor that was supposed to be attached to the top. If you look carfully you can see I had a broken mount. And later on, after my first drive, I discovered that was the cause of the squeak in my left ear while driving....



Remove the mount from the top frame and note (Take a picture) of the wiring and hydraulic line placement.



Remove the tape and tie-wraps from the cables and hoses.



Now remove the housing cover.



Housing cover removed. You can already see the corrosion.





As extra insurance, before I pulled the motor out, I labeled the hydraulic lines. 3,4,5,6. and then after the motor was out of the housing, labeled the old housing the same way. Just to be sure.

Pull out the motor. The sound insulating foam and motor were soaked.



The old housing. It shows my labels, and labels from BMW. 11,12,13,14 and W for the wire. Later on I found that the hydraulic lines are also labeled if you look . Can't be too careful......




When you look at the new motor, you will see there is a circuit board internal to the unit where the power wires are attached...
Remove the electrical connectors and clean them up. Use Q-Tips, Pipe Cleaners, what ever.. I removed the boots and cleaned them up also.
Note very carefully the wire color and which terminals they attache to. If you put them on backward, the top will operate in reverse and you will have to remove the soft top and redo.



The black assembly is the Bowden Cable. It is the manual top release. Remove the assembly, noting the position.



Looking at the motor, the brass button on the bottom is the actual hydraulic by-pass plunger or spool.



I now used a Dremel Tool to clean up the hydraulic fittings. This is not just a anal move. Hydraulics always require cleanliness...
(Usless fact: On US Submarines, we use the same oil on both the main turbines and ships hydrualic system. The hydrualic system has a higher spec. for cleanliness...)




If you are to do this properly, you should replace the copper sealing washers, but I just plain forgot to order them.. I had to reuse the old ones.
I think they come in the 'Hydraulic Repair Kit'. Number nine in the RealOEM drawing.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...13&hg=54&fg=10

Now I transfer the hydraulic lines a set at a time. The new pump is labeled with the BMW line numbers. 11,12,13,14. But transferring them as a set, you can't screw it up. Do this quickly to reduce the amount of oil loss from the line.
I put the dust screws from the new pump back into the old pump. I plan on draining the oil and saving it. It does not appear to be contaminated.



Replace the Bowden Cable assembly.



The new motor housing. Nice, clean and DRY.



Notice some oil will leak during the hydraulic line transfer.



Reattach the electrical leads, wipe up any oil on the motor and place in the new housing.



Doing a test fit.



Here's ware the RTV comes in, if you use it.



I placed RTV all along the housing seam and in and around the wire and piping penetrations, then put the cover on then put more RTV on the outside seam. Sealing it up.
Four hours after doing all this, I had a nagging feeling about the electrical wire positions so I took it all apart. It was not hard even with all that RTV..... The wiring was correct....
Sealed it back up..




Now using the pictures I took, and remounted the unit to the frame making sure all the cables and hydraulic lines were running properly, additionally putting tie-wraps where needed.

Now you are done....


Why I can't see your pictures?

Regards !
Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:57 PM.




zpost
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST