In a Z4M for the first time. What mods?

[Gladius]

Originally Posted by beta

• 10.9 Engine mount bolts + nord locks

Thanks, I hadn't heard about this issue, I'll see if it's a problem when the car arrives. Will the dealer still service campaigns like the one that is listed for these bolts under warranty, or is that something I should do on my own?

[XMetal]

Originally Posted by Gladius

Yeah, I noticed that too...not sure if trolling, so I ignored. My '01 had the rod bearing recall done way back when, but I'm sure that issue was dealt with by the time these cars came around.

Search various forums and you'll understand the recommendation. Here's a thread on it => http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthre...hlight=bearing

Originally Posted by Gladius

Thanks, I hadn't heard about this issue, I'll see if it's a problem when the car arrives. Will the dealer still service campaigns like the one that is listed for these bolts under warranty, or is that something I should do on my own?

It's only a service bulletin, so unless you had an issue with it while under warranty, it won't be covered.

[Vanne]

Originally Posted by XMetal

Search various forums and you'll understand the recommendation. Here's a thread on it => http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthre...hlight=bearing

Hmm I understand this is possibly the case if the car is tracked for 50k, but then I would imagine probably the whole engine could use a rebuild. Surely it's not the case for a car that's been a daily driver for most of its life.

50k for bottom end bearings is a disgrace on a road car, and would come within a normal warranty period.

But yeah, track it and all bets are off. Makes me kinda worried now actually.

[Endless619]

Originally Posted by Gladius

Just purchased an '07 Silver Grey Z4MC and must have it shipped. Unfortunately the timing worked out such that I won't get it until after I return from vacation, so I will have to wait more than 2 weeks to get her! It's going to be agonizing.

At any rate, while I'm starting to read through the forum and see what people do to these cars, I'm looking for suggestions on first mods. This will be a weekend/occasional track day car, not a racecar, so I must maintain driveability sanity. It was pretty much untouched by its previous owners (who barely drove it) so there's nothing on it right now. I've owned an E46 M3 before so I'm familiar with some of the engine mods...but what else on this car? So far I've heard:

• CDV Delete
• Clutch stop
• Stiffer engine and transmission mounts
• SS Brake lines
• Stubby antenna
• Painted reflectors

Car needs none of those mods in reality. CDV is overrated and not needed, regardless of what anyone thinks or says on here. Learn and adapt to shifting. Plain and simple.

Stiffer engine mounts and tranny mounts not really needed.

Stubby antenna is ok. Took me 2 years to do it. lol

Reflectors is cheap and easy.

Do not do the ZHP shift knob option. Looks like shit. I don't care what anyone says here.

Otherwise I would leave the car alone. Then in time as you learn the ins and outs of the car, move up to some new wheels. If you don't like your cars stance then throw in some springs. Just do not go H&R, period. They leave a full 1 inch gap in the front and no gap in the rear. Looks really bad IMO. Been there done that. Do it right the first time and get coilovers if you need a drop AND even.

[Shipkiller]

Originally Posted by Vanne

Hmm I understand this is possibly the case if the car is tracked for 50k, but then I would imagine probably the whole engine could use a rebuild. Surely it's not the case for a car that's been a daily driver for most of its life.

50k for bottom end bearings is a disgrace on a road car, and would come within a normal warranty period.

But yeah, track it and all bets are off. Makes me kinda worried now actually.

Well, I change my oil every 5-7K. At 38K I need new rod bearings. When the blackstone report came back with a 43PPM of lead... no question. The S54 has essentially two weakness that seem to crop up again and again. Rod bearings and Vanos issues. The upper end (pistons, rings, valvetrain) and main bearings seem to just last, and I am not talking about valve shim adjustments.

If your car is just a daily driver and you stay away from too much time in the redline, you may not have any bearing issues but you will never know unless you do a oil analysis. I also have some issue with staying with TWS 10W60. I personally think there are better oils out there. I have now changed to a 15W50 just to combat bearing wear.

[ClayMan]

Why not just swap the stock strut hats for some free negative camber, E36 style? Supplement with shims if you need more.

No need for expensive plates unless you need an extreme track alignment, I think.

[beta]

Originally Posted by Gladius

Thanks, I hadn't heard about this issue, I'll see if it's a problem when the car arrives. Will the dealer still service campaigns like the one that is listed for these bolts under warranty, or is that something I should do on my own?

Some people have gotten it taken care of under warranty, but most of us just did it on our own. Doesn't hurt to print out the SIB and take it in.

During assembly some cars had too much heat on the right side bolts, causing them to not be tight and eventually back out. So it's a good idea regardless to just get them replaced. The nord-locks guarantee they'll never back out again. I'm a big believer in nord-locks and use them on the firewall braces, etc. all bolts that are known to back out or become loose.

See my post here for the SIB and more info.

Originally Posted by Endless619

Stiffer engine mounts and tranny mounts not really needed.

You should really take a drive in a Z with vibra-tech engine mounts. You will realize how much the engine was moving around before, and how nice it is when it doesn't. IMO it's one of the top 3 cheap mods.

Originally Posted by Endless619

Stubby antenna is ok. Took me 2 years to do it. lol

I didn't put that in my list because I like the RC car look heh.

Originally Posted by Endless619

Do not do the ZHP shift knob option. Looks like shit. I don't care what anyone says here.

I put the Autosolutions SSK in my list instead. Some people get both, but IMO you want either the ZHP knob or the ASS SSK and keep the stock (taller) shifter.

[silverfishZ4M]

Endless I agree with you, car drives stock just fine

[Finnegan]

CDV. You can get used to it, and it's not horrible, but so much better without. It's just more fun, and less drivetrain wear. I can't think of anyone who has deleted one who claimed it was better with the CDV. And free, so why not?

Later cars (E9x) M3 don't have one.

The car is pretty good stock overall. But it can be improved. Engine and transmission mounts, SSK, better sounding exhaust, and better dampers / springs (stock mid-corner bumps are disconcerting, so much better with better suspension). Does it need these things? Nope. But then do we need a 300+ HP motor and only two seats?

[Krypptic]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

CDV. You can get used to it, and it's not horrible, but so much better without. It's just more fun, and less drivetrain wear. I can't think of anyone who has deleted one who claimed it was better with the CDV. And free, so why not?

Later cars (E9x) M3 don't have one.

The car is pretty good stock overall. But it can be improved. Engine and transmission mounts, SSK, better sounding exhaust, and better dampers / springs (stock mid-corner bumps are disconcerting, so much better with better suspension). Does it need these things? Nope. But then do we need a 300+ HP motor and only two seats?

What he said.

[GuidoK]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Later cars (E9x) M3 don't have one.

I think it still has one. part# 21 52 2 283 914

I also think a lot of mods are personal preference, including mods like cdv and ssk. I don't see that much use for a ssk, let alone a short (and heavy) gearknob.
Also a cdv doesn't cause drivetrain wear. If it does, people don't know how to shift. You shouldn't apply much power as long as the clutch isn't fully engaged. The clutch is a pretty weak point in the z4.
The only thing a cdv delete does is give you more control over the release of the clutch. When you have fully released the the pedal, you're assured that the clutch is fully engaged. With cdv it can be slower than pedal action with spirited driving.
I like it without, but I can imagine that some people think differently.
Just like suspension bushings/tranny-engine mounts, coilovers/lowering etc. Your stiffening up the car. Some like that, some dont. And it always comes at a price in the end. The stiffer the bushings/mounts, the more strain you're putting on the bodyshell, subframes, bolts and threads, interior etc etc. In the end that wears a chassis/car out more quickly. Just as going to the track, or tuning the engine.
That's why most prefer a 2nd hand car that is not tuned or tracked.

[Finnegan]

Agree regarding mods and that stiffer bushings, etc. move stress to other parts.

I shouldn't have said drivetrain but rather clutch wear. Don't agree regarding the CDV, and I'm not the only one who is of the opinion that the CDV is harder on the clutch (for the experienced driver).

But really it's a preference thing. If folks like it, keep it. Personally I'll decide how fast to disengage my own clutch not some restrictor. I've been making that decision with my left foot for well over 30 years, and I got 200K out of my last clutch, so my left foot seems to know what it's doing.

It's true that the E9x M3 has that part, but there's no restriction (unlike the one on our cars and the E46 M3). EAS tested it--here's the post.

Back on topic--Gladius, where do you sit now on your mod plans?

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Endless619

Do not do the ZHP shift knob option. Looks like shit. I don't care what anyone says here.

[StickMon]

What they said.
CDV can't be good for the clutch. Might be good for the gears and 1/2 shafts, but that's easy; don't do whole-shots.

As for the shift knob, do this M5 F10 knob.

Oh, and check the forum classifieds. Tischer just started a discount.
(Because I bought a bunch of stuff last week. Oh well. Have to buy more stuff!)

[GuidoK]

There are loads of 3 and 5 series all over the world all with cdv turning hundreds of thousands of miles with no problem at all, so that a cdv isn't good for the clutch is simply NOT true.
The only thing you must not do is apply power (torque) when the clutch isn't fully engaged. That goes for a system with OR without cdv, and that is the PROPER way to drive. Every mechanic/professional driver/instructor/whatever will tell you that.
The cdv itself doesn't do anything exept engaging the clutch in a controlled manner. If you apply power too soon, you just don't know how to drive a manual. In the end it's as simple as that. And if you do know how to drive a manual, and you can properly control your clutch, a system without cdv will ALWAYS wear out faster. The only thing a cdv delete will accomplish (with PROPER clutching) is engaging the clutch faster if you use that ability to clutch faster. That means that the inertia from the clutch/flywheel will be dissapated more quickly, which means more wear. This suits spirited driving better, but gives more wear to the clutch in the end.

[Gladius]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Back on topic--Gladius, where do you sit now on your mod plans?

In addition to a few cosmetic mods that I know I want:
- I will do the CDV delete
- I'm leaning towards the engine mounts, tranny mounts and the bolt upgrade if it's needed.
- I had both the ZHP knob and an SSK in my E46 M3, but I'll wait and see on this car.
- I've done SS brake lines in all my cars, so that seems likely.
- New wheels and tires are a certainty, eventually - but that's a long-term decision making process given the plethora of options
- V1 hardwire
- I avoided suspension mods in my previous M3s, but they were also my DD; now that I have a separate DD, I'm more likely to consider coilovers given that this will be for the track/weekend and not see as much around-town use.

[johanness]

Originally Posted by Endless619

If you don't like your cars stance then throw in some springs. Just do not go H&R, period. They leave a full 1 inch gap in the front and no gap in the rear. Looks really bad IMO. Been there done that.

You been there done that incorrect then. Were you using the 15mm pads? Probably not. You got rid of your MC a long time ago. Maybe your memory isn't that great, because:

a) ZHP knob is just fine

and

b) I don't think this stance looks REALLY BAD

[Shorts]

Yep zhp is more than just fine. Also, adding 15mm spring pads from an E46 xi will level out H and R springs almost perfectly. H and R springs with bilstein shocks/struts is a much better value than a coil over set up. You can get h and r coils for around 1300 but the quality must be questioned when they are less than half of the price of the competition.

[Shorts]

Yep zhp is more than just fine. Also, adding 15mm spring pads from an E46 xi will level out H and R springs almost perfectly. H and R springs with bilstein shocks/struts is a much better value than a coil over set up. You can get h and r coils for around 1300 but the quality must be questioned when they are less than half of the price of the competition.

[Gladius]

So it arrived today - first question - gotta get it inside the garage! Are there any aftermarket homelink options out there for this car?

[Finnegan]

Buy one off EBay and install. Bill, former owner and forum member, has a DIY here.

[Z4dugh]

Exhaust, coil overs and wheels, all else stock