ESS VT2-500 Supercharger Kit Installed! Impressions, pictures, video.

[ZStig]

pop the caps off, insert the hex nut, and see which one swings around when you pull on it

[iPhoneEngineer]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

pop the caps off, insert the hex nut, and see which one swings around when you pull on it

I guess one reason this is iffy to me is I've never seen tensioners that work that way--only ones that are advanced into the belt by using a long bolt, not by "swinging" the pulley out of the way (though I can see that's how the A/C one works). That one at least has a bolt that seems like you tighten it down once the pulley "swings" to the right position, but what weirds me out about the other one with the hex key is that it doesn't seem to have a bolt.

Is the tensioner for the rear belt driven ENTIRELY by spring tension which can only be temporarily released via the hex key? If so, that explains a lot, including that there is no adjustability to the tension (short of replacing the spring).

[iPhoneEngineer]

OK, I found the pulley with the plastic cover. I think it is #8. The belt's flat side runs along the pulley.

However, I can't get the plastic bit off with my fingernails; I guess I'll try a screwdriver, but I don't want to break it! Tips?

I found a torx socket that should fit the 8mm hex if there is enough clearance for my ratchet, so I can potentially make the swap tonight--would be perfect as my weekday commute is the ideal test drive.

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

OK, I found the pulley with the plastic cover. I think it is #8. The belt's flat side runs along the pulley.

However, I can't get the plastic bit off with my fingernails; I guess I'll try a screwdriver, but I don't want to break it! Tips?

I found a torx socket that should fit the 8mm hex if there is enough clearance for my ratchet, so I can potentially make the swap tonight--would be perfect as my weekday commute is the ideal test drive.

mad props for trying yourself.... this is all i did and now i dismantle this car like its a lego set ;-)

looking through the instructions theirs a really nice piece on how install the belt ;-) also it tells you on tensioning ect ect, i personally would read through that again and go from their.......

you car is going to sound like a freaking jet plane..... that vortech starts to really make itself known @ 10psi...... im kinda jealous :-( lol
iphone lets get this issue sorted and see your car move!!!

BTW i use a small electrics flat blade screw driver to remove the pastic cover BUT..... for tension you dont need to mess with that one AFAIK, all you need is the two metal smooth units, these are easily accessible, BTW the A/C belt DOES NOT need to come off to swap out this belt, just popped into the garage and reminded myself of the setup :-/ holy shit...... it is tight... and the belt routing is very intricate.....

[iPhoneEngineer]

Originally Posted by Beedub

mad props for trying yourself.... this is all i did and now i dismantle this car like its a lego set ;-)

looking through the instructions theirs a really nice piece on how install the belt ;-) also it tells you on tensioning ect ect, i personally would read through that again and go from their.......

I have enjoyed working on the car myself (including the two header swaps), but it's frustrating not having the necessary information to do a job...at least I had a good walkthrough the first time with the headers, and having done it before, didn't need the instructions the second time.

There is absolutely no detailed instruction about the belt in the VT2-500 manual I have. The file is also small enough to be emailed (unlike yours). This is the ENTIRE discussion of installing the rear belt and tensioning it:

"Step 49: Install the supplied ESS belt according to the picture/diagram and reinstall the plastic cover on the tensioner pulley."

The diagram is the image I already posted (just a schematic, no details or indication of how the tensioner works).

I guess you have a different, much better manual? Can you try uploading it to senduit.com? Or just copying the relevant info here so I can get a move on this job?

[iPhoneEngineer]

Originally Posted by Beedub

BTW i use a small electrics flat blade screw driver to remove the pastic cover BUT..... for tension you dont need to mess with that one AFAIK, all you need is the two metal smooth units, these are easily accessible, BTW the A/C belt DOES NOT need to come off to swap out this belt, just popped into the garage and reminded myself of the setup :-/ holy shit...... it is tight... and the belt routing is very intricate.....

Um lol how on earth can I get the rear belt (S/C) off without removing the front belt (A/C)?! I can't think of any way to do that, and the ESS instructions mention reinstalling the A/C belt as the next step after installing the S/C belt.

I really need a clear answer on which pulley is the tensioner pulley, as the ESS directions imply it is the one with the plastic cover...

[ZStig]

Its one of the inside ones, thats for sure. I THINK its 8, but can't confirm from memory. Pop it off with a small flathead screwdriver, and like I said, see if turning the center bolt relieves pressure of not.

Did ESS JUST give you a smaller pulley? No tune or injector upgrades I'm assuming. I guess if your peak boost will be 8psi, the net result shouldn't matter.....

Keep in mind a leak isn't always linear, and you may not make 8psi up top, but have more power before it than us

[iPhoneEngineer]

OK great, I'll give that one a try after getting the cover off. Someone speak up if I can actually get the rear belt off without removing the front belt; sounds like a magic trick to me, lol!

ESS only gave me the pulley and belt, none of the other VT2-550 stuff like larger injectors. The assumption is I'm leaking so much that the pulley will get me to VT2-500 boost at most. However, since I most need the power between 3k-5k RPM while climbing the hill, I might leave the smaller pulley on even after fixing the leaks--and never take the motor over, say, 6.5k or 7k.

I'll definitely rev to redline before the leak is fixed so we can get a clearer picture on how it behaves at different pressures.

[iPhoneEngineer]

EDIT: Got the bastard (plastic cap), much easier from below the car. Still, it's on pretty damn tight! It is definitely that one (#8) that is the tensioner, but I can see now why it will be a bitch to mount the new belt. Suffice it to say the torx bit will work for this job and I'm going to remove the rear belt and S/C pulley now, then see if Beedub can reveal his magic method to get it off without removing the A/C belt .

EDIT2: The S/C pulley came off with relative ease. However, the new one will not go on. The old one is nicely anodized black, but the new one is raw aluminum with some visible machining imperfections (somewhat rough surfaces, etc). I'm currently attempting to heat it with a shop light, and if that doesn't work will try some petroleum jelly.

EDIT3: It was still quite difficult to get the new pulley on after heating it in water that had been warmed substantially in the microwave, but after getting past the initial sticking point, it slipped the rest of the way effortlessly. The new belt is indeed shorter, 2310 vs 2315, so I'm working on that now.

[iPhoneEngineer]

Both belts back on, did a test startup with no surprising noises or belt jumps . I still have to get the undercover back on and won't be able to go for an actual drive until later tonight at the earliest.

EDIT: Everything back together, car is ready to test-drive. Not sure yet if I will be driving it tonight; have to catch up on some work.

[ZStig]

good job

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

Both belts back on, did a test startup with no surprising noises or belt jumps . I still have to get the undercover back on and won't be able to go for an actual drive until later tonight at the earliest.

EDIT: Everything back together, car is ready to test-drive. Not sure yet if I will be driving it tonight; have to catch up on some work.

woops, of course you need to remove the a/c belt.... my bad..... its still not that difficult is it??? its one of the nicer jobs for sure ;-) yeah my 8psi pulley is a lovely pewter finish brown/black anodised, it really looks nice......

now GET teStInG and tell me whats happening!!!! remember Tq isnt this kits trump card, we do get a nice dollop more tq but nothing like i like.... this is a high reving power.... i do like that bit however!!! the more you rev the more power you get!!

[iPhoneEngineer]

Initial review--feels like the sport button is on! Lol good thing I had just tried the sport button with the VT2-500 for the first time the day before the pulley swap; it really is a decent comparison. More boost pressing against the closed throttles ready to rush in with very little opening.

Really though, I have only experienced it descending the hill and around town. Going easy on the revs because the ECU's program will naturally cause a lean condition until it adapts, so it's only been to 5kRPM max.

The ascent tonight should be more eventful; much more WOT and I'll get it up to at least 6k. I'll take a boost video in the next few days once I'm comfortable pushing to redline.

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

Initial review--feels like the sport button is on! Lol good thing I had just tried the sport button with the VT2-500 for the first time the day before the pulley swap; it really is a decent comparison. More boost pressing against the closed throttles ready to rush in with very little opening.

Really though, I have only experienced it descending the hill and around town. Going easy on the revs because the ECU's program will naturally cause a lean condition until it adapts, so it's only been to 5kRPM max.

The ascent tonight should be more eventful; much more WOT and I'll get it up to at least 6k. I'll take a boost video in the next few days once I'm comfortable pushing to redline.

what boost are you seeing?????? is the car feeling alot quicker?? more s/c noise?? im dying to see if youve sorted the issues!!!!!

[iPhoneEngineer]

Originally Posted by Beedub

what boost are you seeing?????? is the car feeling alot quicker?? more s/c noise?? im dying to see if youve sorted the issues!!!!!

I don't have a permanent boost gauge install and find it is impossible to get an accurate glance at a gauge other than the tachometer at redline, so I don't know the boost yet. As I mentioned I haven't even hit redline yet . I will make a boost video (for extremely accurate/objective measurement of boost at all RPMs, I can even post a slow-motion version of it) sometime this weekend.

Power--I went close to WOT in 1st in another drive since the last post, and finally, finally!!! got some wheelspin relatively early in the rev range as I would expect. Around 5kRPM the tach started to climb unnaturally fast the next 1-1.5kRPM, so I shifted. The ESP was actually NOT activated, even though it was enabled--it was that quick! I am delightfully relieved to experience the car with boost closer to what it should be (who knows if it is more, or less, than a usual VT2-500 at this point). Nontheless the plight won't be completely over until I can determine what the hell is causing the boost leak.

Sound--I'm actually surprised how little difference there is in the whine. When engaging the clutch just off idle, the rattling noise the S/C makes is actually more displeasing than it was before (I assume it is the case for you guys too, the rattle from the S/C is louder when engaging the clutch in a usual manner than it is while the car is sitting idle and unloaded). I need more time with the car, especially when driving up the hill, to give a final conclusion on the whine. However, the MOST noticeable sound difference is that of the BPV--there is significantly more pressure bypass and the tipping point where it whistles annoyingly is a narrower margin (makes sense, more pressure in the system means the valve will tend to either be completely closed or really want to open).

As another update, I finished my research on gauge options--and was not satisfied with the ashtray gauge solution, nor the idea of putting gauges on the A-pillar. It may look clean, but if I'm someday pulled over by a cop, with the strict rules against modifications in California I want the car to be entirely stealth when the engine is shut down. Give absolutely no "probable cause" for them to pop the hood, for example, and cause a world of hurt with a simple fix-it ticket. So, I'm going with digital gauges installed behind the mirror glass--AEM wideband O2, AEM boost, and also the famed Beltronics STiR Plus radar detector . It's going to cost an assload, but it will be 100% invisible with the car off, and perhaps most importantly, easy and quick to read even while moving fast. I'd much rather see a bright red "7" than trying to distinguish the tick marks between 6 and 8 on boost gauges usually designed for 30PSI, looking DOWN at the ashtray area! Plus, I don't have to relocate the cigarette lighter and still have the ashtray to put random shit in. I'm in the process with radar-mirror.com right now and will update when I have ETAs for that install.

[ZStig]

good to hear. I'm not 100% happy with the sunglass area for gauges either, but thats what the peak boost recall button is for, so you don't have to look at it during a run. On that note, I see NO reason to have an A/F ratio gauge down there, unless your passenger is looking at it. I'd rather go to a dyno once in a while and map out the A/F ratios, and use that spot for an AIT temp gauge

[iPhoneEngineer]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

good to hear. I'm not 100% happy with the sunglass area for gauges either, but thats what the peak boost recall button is for, so you don't have to look at it during a run. On that note, I see NO reason to have an A/F ratio gauge down there, unless your passenger is looking at it. I'd rather go to a dyno once in a while and map out the A/F ratios, and use that spot for an AIT temp gauge

The peak recall is a bit problematic, because as you know, a shift even without hitting the rev limiter causes a significant spike...

Made the 2 grand payment for the mirror install (includes the Beltronics unit), lol. Good point about the wideband gauge...any opinions on what second gauge I should get in addition to the boost gauge, given that only two total can fit? The radar unit display is on the other side of the mirror. Here are the choices:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/gauges...tal-gauges-27/

Oil pressure might be a good choice...

[marinb]

Regarding fix-it tickets here in CA, there is a secret option... A "I choose not to fix-it" option. It costs more, so instead of $10 fix-it you maybe be paying $50 or $100. And I'm not positive but it seems like the more times you choose not to fix-it (i.e. if you are ticketed again) then the price to not fix-it goes up.

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle

good to hear. I'm not 100% happy with the sunglass area for gauges either, but thats what the peak boost recall button is for, so you don't have to look at it during a run. On that note, I see NO reason to have an A/F ratio gauge down there, unless your passenger is looking at it. I'd rather go to a dyno once in a while and map out the A/F ratios, and use that spot for an AIT temp gauge

AFR gauge works nicely on a long pull.... thats where it matters ;-) the AFR isnt a gauge i need to stare at its more about a flash glance ;-)

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

The peak recall is a bit problematic, because as you know, a shift even without hitting the rev limiter causes a significant spike...

Made the 2 grand payment for the mirror install (includes the Beltronics unit), lol. Good point about the wideband gauge...any opinions on what second gauge I should get in addition to the boost gauge, given that only two total can fit? The radar unit display is on the other side of the mirror. Here are the choices:

http://www.aemelectronics.com/gauges...tal-gauges-27/

Oil pressure might be a good choice...

gear changes without poping the limiter simply do not cause a boost spike at all..... a supercharger spins to make boost, the moment the revs drop the boost drops, if you dont bang the limter to make it spike how can it spike???

VT1 which is 5psi made exactly 5psi @ 7900rpm.... wheres the boost spike??? pop the limiter and it went to 6psi, clean revs with no rev limiter bangs will cause no boost spikes.....

my vt2 makes exactly 8psi at 7900, no spikes no swings just a clean sweep to 8psi, bang the limter and it widely swings giving a spike to like 10psi, a clean rev with see no spike what so ever..... the boost i see on my gauge was exactly what was seen on the dyno as we specifically contacted ess about it.... i have to disagree with you on that one ;-)

gauge wise i went with oil pressure , boost , AFR all in the ash tray location for me this is perfect and i love the stealth of it their..... The AFR gauge allows me to glance on the longer pulls to see whats happening, on a car that was never meant to be blown an AFR is an absolute must imo....... did you ever read when fr8tdog noticed a serious lean condition on his AFR gauge??? ;-) turns out his fuel pump was bad, ;-)

[iPhoneEngineer]

Originally Posted by Beedub

gear changes without poping the limiter simply do not cause a boost spike at all..... a supercharger spins to make boost, the moment the revs drop the boost drops, if you dont bang the limter to make it spike how can it spike???

I have video of the spike happening, and while Roffle originally denied it was possible/he was seeing it, he later confirmed that it is. Strange that you don't! Roffle, want to chime in?

I don't care to argue about it too much; maybe it's something about my shifting style. Doesn't really matter to me much as I know it happens on my car and would rather have a digital readout than looking at tiny tick marks with a needle.

I guess I'll keep the AFR gauge instead of switching to oil pressure. Will still be glad to have a completely stealth install even though it's missing one additional gauge!

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by iPhoneEngineer

I have video of the spike happening, and while Roffle originally denied it was possible/he was seeing it, he later confirmed that it is. Strange that you don't! Roffle, want to chime in?

I don't care to argue about it too much; maybe it's something about my shifting style. Doesn't really matter to me much as I know it happens on my car and would rather have a digital readout than looking at tiny tick marks with a needle.

I guess I'll keep the AFR gauge instead of switching to oil pressure. Will still be glad to have a completely stealth install even though it's missing one additional gauge!

who's arguing?? ;-) im simply exlpaining my experience, ive got clear videos of what im talking about also ;-) either way, we'll agree to disagree :-) but check this out..... Ess vt2-625... 7psi pulley, clean run, no without hitting the limiter, peak boost???? 6.9psi....

http://www.youtube.com/user/eslamm3?.../0/qI-lUqnQP7s

i cant lie i LOVE the idea of the mirror gauge.... this car deserves super clean install and i think that will look awesome.... AFR is imo very important, you see lots of different reading, a bad tank of fuel shows up, when its cool you get different readings.... fr8tdog convinced me when he pump was loosing its legs, this showed with a high 12 reading where he immediatly backed off..... invaluable info