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      01-21-2013, 11:04 AM   #1
3002 tii
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Brake Duct Cooling DIY for Z4 Non-M

Anyone who tracks their car regularly knows the importance of keeping their brakes cool. First time I experienced fade was at Summit Point 2 years ago running street pads & ATE Blue. Since then I upgraded to PFC 06's and Motul 600. Didn't have fade for 15 days until my last event at NJMP Thunder where I managed to boil even the Motul. Don't have the budget to upgrade to a BBK so figured a brake duct was the next logical upgrade. The install is surprisingly straightforward and having a friend assist with the install will make your life much easier. Special tools needed are:

1. any tools you'd normally use for a standard brake job
2. tin snips
3. box cutter or some cutting tool
4. 2.5" and 3" hole saw
5. drill

Hardware needed:

1. Set of backing plates (sold by vendors such as BW, Turner, etc)
2. Approx 8 feet of 3" hi-temp ducting (9' to be safe)
3. 3" ID flanges x4
4. 2.5" ID flanges x2
5. 6 worm clamps that fit 2.75"-3.25"
6. pair of 3" to 2.5" couplers (optional)
7. mesh screen (optional)

Items 2-4 can be purchased at www.aircraftspruce.com, I found they have the best prices shipped. I'm going to keep the DIY simple as many steps overlap from other DIY's posted here, and there's so many different ways about doing it but I find the pictures to be most helpful.


1. You'll first need to remove the front bumper (see Mister Roger's DIY on bumper removal) and also jack up the car, remove the front 2 wheels and access the factory backing plates (see DIY on brake job). These cannot be removed without taking apart the hub so quickest/easiest way is to take a pair of tin snips and cut them off. Upon removing the backing plates, install the aftermarket backing plate onto the factory spindles. My backing plate was only able to reuse 2 of the 3 mounting holes but I found it plenty secure.




2. The flanges on the back of the plates are 3". Hence you will need to run 3" hoses from the backing plate to the front grills of the car. I did NOT want to go through the liner because it would inevitably rub against the front tires. Rather, I want to around the liner, through the SIDE of the splash guard via 3" hole with 3" hole saw kit. I found it easier to remove the splash guards off the car. Splash guards are part number 6 (51717168995 and 51717168996)



(how it actually looks)


I then drilled 3 holes through a pair of the flanges and mounted them onto the splash guards:





Flanges on both sides:



3. I took 5 feet of 3" ducting, cut in half and secured one side onto the backing plate, the other side on the inside of the splash guard:

(inside view, left side feeds to the hub, right side is the inside of the splash guard)


(view from the wheel, hose around the fender liner, under the sway, I also covered portions of the hose with duct tape to protect against potential rub)


At this point, turn the wheel full lock and see how much slack you need in the hose. Trim off whatever extra length you don't need.

4. OK, half way there! Now you need to add 3" hose from the outside of the splash guard to the front of your car. For non-M owners, we have fake (covered) lower grills so I decided this would be the best plate to collect the air. Another option is to remove your fog lights and collect air from there. So at this point, I removed the 2 lower corner grills and cut a 2.5" hole using the 2.5" hole saw kit. Reason I did NOT go 3" is because the flanges wouldn't sit flush inside from the outside, aesthetically 2.5" is better but 3" would make install somewhat easier. You'll see why in a bit.




5. I also painted my 2.5' flanges in satin black to match the black grills. Use sandpaper to roughen them up a bit, and 2 quick coats:

(notice the mesh screen here, totally optional but figured a filter wouldn't hurt. I used the same mesh screen you'd find on a patio screen door)




So 2.5" flanges look better but makes the install a little more complicated because your hoses are 3" (if you look at the pic above, you'll see how the 2.5" flange sits perfectly inside the grill, anything larger would not sit flush inside the grill). So I picked up a cheap set of 3" to 2.5" couplers, secured the flange to the grills using the worm clamp. I cut the remaining 4 feet of hose in half and routed 1 side to the outer part of the splash guard, the other to the grill. Also note, the red arrow below, there are 2 vertical plastic pieces that run down behind the grill. I had to trim some of that off in order to allow the flange/coupler/hose clear.



(driver side, you may have to unplug your temp sensor - I ziptie'd mine to the horn bracket)


(passenger side)


6. Almost there! You're ready to reinstall the fogs and bumper. However, at this point I noticed that the plastic splash guard by the radiator doesn't allow the hose to freely get around towards the grill so I had to cut some plastic trim off the splash guard:



7. With the trim removed on both splash guards, you're ready to put the bumper back on. This is where a 2nd set of hands helps because one person will need to hold the bumper while the other ensures the hoses stay inside the coupler. If you used 3" flanges, you wouldn't need to do this balancing act since the hoses would stay secure via worm clamps. Also at this point, you'll need to trim as necessary because chances are the hoses are too long (which makes putting the bumper back on more difficult).




Some notes install:

3" hose can be quite expensive, so for the area by the bumper, I actually went with a cheaper low temp single ply hose (hence the difference in color, black vs orange). I'm not so worried about high temps or the possibility of the hose getting damaged in this area. Plus, more flex or less tension from the house allows the bumper to go on easier. But for the hoses connecting to the backing plate, I suggest sticking with high temp (orange) and 2-ply hoses.

Also, you may wonder why I chose to use flanges by the splash guard instead of simply cutting a hole and routing one long hose. Reason being I know the hose by the bumper will never need to be replaced whereas the hose by the wheel may get damaged. By having a 2 piece setup with flanges, you can just remove the hose by the wheel without having the replace the entire piece (cheaper and simpler).

I also chose to route the hose UNDER the sway bar because if you go over, it may get kinked under compression which could damage the hose. I would say 90% of this install is quite easy and straightforward, the hardest part is figuring out how to route the hoses up front. Knowing what I know now however, I think it would've been best to use 2.5" hoses all throughout. That way you could secure directly to the flanges up front with clamps without the need for the reducers. The only place you would use the reducer is by the backing plates. And not to mention but you would also reduce the chance of any rubbing by the tires.

OH yea, thanks to Eric (v3.2mc) for doing this the first time around and giving me tips along the way, he's the master of decoding realoem.com and 3D rendering via MS Paint lol.
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Last edited by 3002 tii; 01-22-2013 at 08:46 AM.
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      01-21-2013, 11:10 AM   #2
v3.2mc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSC_OFF View Post
OH yea, thanks to Eric (v3.2mc) for doing this the first time around and giving me tips along the way, he's the master of decoding realoem.com and 3D rendering via MS Paint lol.
yeah... super useful in life.

i'm glad i could be your template; although i think your solution is A: better functioning, and B: better looking. so... kudos!
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      01-26-2013, 04:24 PM   #3
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good job my friend!!
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      03-18-2013, 03:45 PM   #4
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what about two flanges opposing each other in place of the foglamp? or one double-sided flange?

if one flange is long enough, it might be possible to chamfer the leading edge to match the lamp opening (see blue line below).

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