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      05-24-2010, 11:30 PM   #1
mhrir
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Z4M Track Brake Pad Install

What could it be?

New track pads from Porterfield!

Safety first...

Loosen the lugs...

Here is how I remove the retaining spring clip. Compress with clamp and then pull on it. It pops right out!

Compress the brake caliper piston. This makes caliper removal and installation easier. I use a socket as a spacer between the pad and clamp.

Removing the caliper bolt cover (upper shown)...

Loosen the upper and lower caliper bolts (upper pictured). Notice the green brake wear sensor wire. It just pulls out of the pad with your fingers. I try to grab it as close as I can to where it is clipped into the pad.

Pulling out the upper caliper bolt...

Pulling off the caliper...

Have something to rest the caliper on.

Pads removed. Looks a little corroded inside the piston!

The new rear pads!

They're only like this once... Notice the clip on the back of the pad that inserts in the the caliper piston.

Virgin... Not for long!

Reinstalling the caliper...

The new front pads...

Mighty!

That is a beefy pad...

The front pads install the same as the rears. The brake wear sensors are on the passenger rear and driver front pads only.

This may not be new info, but I had fun taking the pictures! Enjoy!

------------

Last edited by mhrir; 05-27-2010 at 09:11 PM.
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      05-25-2010, 07:57 AM   #2
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Great DIY! I'm sure this will help some people out there. I recall seeing someone asking about how to change pads. It really is a good starter DIY for people to get in touch with their car.

One thing I'd say is after you put everything back together, you might have to press the brake pedal a few times to extend the caliper before you get contact between pads and rotors.
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      05-25-2010, 08:14 AM   #3
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Nice write up!
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      05-27-2010, 07:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
Nice write up!
i agree, good pics too!
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      08-12-2010, 09:04 PM   #5
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I Not Only Would Like To Replace The Brake Pads But Also The Rotors. The Problem Is I Tried The Rear Rotors First And The It Is Stuck On There And Will Not Come Off. I Struck The Rotor (with A Rubber Mallet After I Applied A Generous Amound Of Wd4) All Around And Also The Hub With No Luck.

Is There A Tool For This Process Or Do I Need To Heat It With A Torch? Are The Front Rotors Just As Difficult? Is There A Different Procedure For Those?

Help????
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      08-13-2010, 10:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngceru View Post
I Not Only Would Like To Replace The Brake Pads But Also The Rotors. The Problem Is I Tried The Rear Rotors First And The It Is Stuck On There And Will Not Come Off. I Struck The Rotor (with A Rubber Mallet After I Applied A Generous Amount Of Wd4) All Around And Also The Hub With No Luck.

Is There A Tool For This Process Or Do I Need To Heat It With A Torch? Are The Front Rotors Just As Difficult? Is There A Different Procedure For Those?

Help????
Did you have the emergency brake on? If so you'll never get the rear rotor off because the rear emergency brake is a drum type brake. Release the emergency brake and remove the two hold-down bolts and the rotor should come right off with a little persuasion.
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      08-13-2010, 11:30 AM   #7
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I've never had luck with a rubber mallet. Assuming all is clear (parking break, etc), use a small sledgehammer (about 5lbs) for stuck rotors.

Make sure your car is standing securely on jack stands.
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      03-08-2011, 11:39 AM   #8
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Also, before you replace your rotors spray white lithium grease onto the hub and backside of the new rotor mounting holes. This should keep rust, dirt and other grime from creating an unbreakable seal. I did it on my 350Z, and never had another problem trying to remove rotors.
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      03-08-2011, 08:16 PM   #9
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Nice, I'll be using this one soon.
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      10-09-2012, 07:04 PM   #10
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do you need to change the break wear sensors every time when you install new pads?
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      10-09-2012, 07:29 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melo View Post
do you need to change the break wear sensors every time when you install new pads?
No.
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      10-09-2012, 07:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melo View Post
do you need to change the break wear sensors every time when you install new pads?
Only if the pads are so low that it trips the sensor.

....otherwise no
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      10-09-2012, 08:25 PM   #13
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I tied off my brake pad sensors and didn't even re-connect them.

Causes more trouble than what it actually serves.
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      10-11-2012, 03:26 AM   #14
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thanks for the info guys. my pads were worn out but the sensors didnt even fulfill its duty, nothing showed up in the panel lol
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      10-29-2012, 10:30 AM   #15
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Nice write up OP.
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      06-23-2014, 08:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgolf31 View Post
I tied off my brake pad sensors and didn't even re-connect them.

Causes more trouble than what it actually serves.
Resurrecting an old thread since I'm replacing my front and rear pads this weekend. I've replaced 'em on previous vehicles, but it's nice to see first hand pics. Great write up!

Normally I'd tie off the sensors too, but I plan to sell the car within the next couple years, so I'll keep everything proper for the next owner

On a side note - In terms of resale, how bad is it that I've done ALL of the maintenance on the vehicle myself and the car hasn't been to the dealership in 7+ years? I may have a receipt for oil here and there, otherwise no documents. I figure it's only worth $15k at this point, so I might as well hang onto her
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      08-05-2014, 02:46 PM   #17
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Proof is in the pudding. Personally, I've spent a fair bit of money at the dealership on simple things. Once I realized how much, I started to do more maintenance myself, so I can appreciate the choice of DIYing all the work. Plus, occasionally dealerships do a shoddy job or take shortcuts because of time and cost constraints - I've been a victim of this several times, and getting them to fix their mistakes is an inconvenience. If you keep everything in working order and your car drives like it's been well-maintained, then you shouldn't have a problem when you go to sell it.
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      09-16-2014, 10:57 PM   #18
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nice write up. the raybestos bite and lack of fade is amazing! even compared to full pfc 01 . I wish they did rears for us at a good price.

don't forget your high temp silicone lubricant for the slide pins, or some go for the ceramic extreme high temp lube. just don't use anti-seize.
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      09-16-2014, 11:31 PM   #19
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I just got my jack and jack stands. I heard the brakes start to grind the other day. Definitely going to try changing my brakes this winter. Maybe I'll do the stop tech upgrade kit with the steel cable lines, new pads and slotted rotors.
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