Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
So glad you caught this in time. I don't think I've ever seen lead readings that high posted on the forum, so good call on changing them, and impressed you did it yourself. 
Salty
I hope you don't mind if I ask a few questions. This is in my immediate future. |
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
1. I see you have what appears to be a ring-bound manual.
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It's actually a torque spec reference I found in DIY somewhere... it's for the E46 but for the purpose of my DIY I thought it would be worth printing it out. I just sent the file to a local FedEx Office and a few hours and 25 bucks later I had a spiffy bound copy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
Did you make that yourself from DIYs? Were there any DIYs you found really helpful?
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In no particular order here are a bunch of links I read through.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=455681
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=584535
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=607732
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=657662
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=558412
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...W_Z4M_Tech.htm
http://www.rfdm.com/Daniel/MRoadster/BMWDocs/TIS/
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
2. Did you only use front jack stands, and were able to get the oil pan off OK?
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I'm up on four stands, I really like the ESCO's I have; a friend of mine gave me the set in exchange for some work I did on his 997, if I had known how stable and easy they are to use I would have bought them for myself years ago.
I think most people also use these urethane inserts as well, I am also a big fan.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
3. Did you completely remove the front suspension?
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No.... but man I hate that thing, it is ALWAYS in the way! If you look in this old thread by Pal
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthre...t=rod+bearings
you can see how far the subframe will move out of the way if you remove the FCABs, which is awesome if you have a lift but the subframe just hogs up floor space otherwise and is a general PITA. When I removed my splash shields for this repair I found my power steering loop to be leaking. Because I had to remove that I should have just gone whole hog and removed the entire subframe, it would have been more work in the long run but I think it would have made my life easier.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
4. Any gotchas or unexpected difficulties you encountered?
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The BMW TIS for the rod bearing is short but well written and specifically calls out something I found helpful. When you remove the bearing caps the TIS suggests using a piece of cardboard to keep from scratching up the journal, I did exactly that, slipped a long skinny piece of cardboard around the journal and using a binder clip kept in in place by pinning it to itself. It was super cheap and easy piece of mind.
The oil pan is a giant unwieldy jerk of a thing, I hate it so much but don't forget the two 'hidden' bolts that hang out inside the trans case.
The oil cooler on the Z4 is actually a lot easier than the E46, but I still removed the top bolt on the line to give myself more room, I would absolutely do so again rather than fight the line.
No DIY I found really mentions getting our engine on a support, you have to use a board or something to bridge the gap between the radiator support and the strut towers. The E46 engine sits back much further and it's not an issue, but for our cars a but of backyard ingenuity is required. I'm sure there is a fancy BMW tool that negates the need for this but I don't have one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
5. Did you lube the bearings with assembly lube or just wipe them with oil?
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Assembly lube, redline specifically.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC
6. How long did it take, and did you do it solo or with a helper?
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Solo, two full days total but I'm a pretty slow and doting worker so you could probably do it in less if you were more ambitious.
