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04-06-2014, 02:03 PM | #1 |
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Squirrelly driving - steering input
Does anyone know any decent links or such for better techniques in the Z4M? The reason I ask is that at higher speeds the steering feels squirrelly - like little input goes a long way and I feel myself getting twitchy lines. Albeit I am just back roads driving, but at times it does feel not so safe. Two hands is a must in this little beast especially during acceleration - and I'm sure it's my inexperience with the car too as I just got it in December and have only been out a few times.
Definitely a raw versus refined feel - my E90 tracks amazing, guess I will just have to get more behind the wheel time with the M. Any tips or tricks videos or articles?
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04-06-2014, 02:37 PM | #2 |
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Had a couple friends who tracked Z4Ms, and they also reported the car being a bit squirelly.
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04-06-2014, 02:39 PM | #3 |
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There are many variables, alignment, tires, etc. I have this exact issue on the street, due to my track alignment and r-comps tires. Constantly fighting the twitchy feed back. It was walmost non existent on oem alignment and street tires. I do love the direct input through the steering wheel feeling ever crack in the road.
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04-06-2014, 05:25 PM | #5 |
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I brought mine back to the dealer a week after taking delivery for this exact issue. They put it on the alignment rack and showed me it was well within spec. IMO this car would be 100% more enjoyable if it could be driven hard w/o the need for constant mini-corrections.
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04-06-2014, 05:36 PM | #6 | |
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04-06-2014, 08:54 PM | #7 |
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Unless you have a mechanical issue (FCAB's, Tie-rod ends, Tire balance) then most likely your alignment is off. Being in 'BMW spec.' can mean several things since the 'spec' is rather large. Did the dealer give you a print out of the current alignment settings??? You could have the toe on one wheel going to one side of the spec, and the other wheel on the other side of the spec, or both to one side of the spec or the other....but both are 'in spec'..
I do not run my MC anywhere near OEM specs and it does not wander or is squirrely. It is very sensitive to steering input and very precise, so if you are not attentive it goes exactly where your hands tell it to. |
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04-06-2014, 10:06 PM | #8 |
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I have to agree. I was just marveling today how my car goes exactly where I point it. No tramlining, no wandering. It is sensitive--I rarely drive with one hand on the wheel, and certainly not when driving spiritedly(?)
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04-19-2014, 10:05 AM | #9 | |
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04-19-2014, 11:08 AM | #10 |
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Thanks for that! I'm going to agree on the minor inputs. I tried some easier, minute inputs this morning and the car responds much better. I feel I was turning a little too hard, or releasing too quickly and then having to 'catch' and correct the wheel as I over-inputed. I really appreciate the vid and clarifications everyone!
Also, that slide correction was amazing. Very little input. Thanks again.
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04-19-2014, 11:54 AM | #11 | |
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You're on the right track now! Once you get used to it you'll be saying the E90 isn't responsive enough and requires too much input! |
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04-19-2014, 12:39 PM | #12 | |
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04-19-2014, 12:52 PM | #13 |
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Here is mine on the track. I didn't think it was twitchy at all. I was hitting around 130-140 on the back straight.
Alignment settings Front: -2.2 (via shims) and 0 Toe Rear: 1.8* and 1/4" total Toe |
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04-19-2014, 01:05 PM | #14 |
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I'm using Kgolf's rear settings (took his recommendation--great stuff--car is better with a bit more toe-in, able to put power down as noted in prior post).
I'm running -1.7 front 1/16th toe-in. I've also run zero toe-in front--better for tire wear but the car is a bit more work straight-line and more sensitive. Suggest starting with a tiny bit of toe-in (1/16th total front) if you're going to change front alignment. I also have Turner camber washers in front. Front negative camber is easy to achieve using the Turner camber washer kit. (Stock can only get to -1.0 or a bit more with the "pins"--small hex head bolts--removed.). See this thread for everything you'd ever need to know. 2 washers will easily get you to -2.0, and allow adjustment between ~-1.7 - ~-2.6 by moving the struts in/out. Alignment is always a compromise between tire wear and max grip. Street--for me--is the compromise I'm comfortable with expressed in the settings above. YMMD. Driving inputs are the most important factor though--alignment helps but the driver is key not the settings. Last edited by Finnegan; 08-01-2014 at 08:22 PM.. |
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04-19-2014, 04:57 PM | #15 |
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Yea, typically I don't like running that much toe (I was at 1/8th total toe for a year prior). The 1/4th of an inch was a incredible difference. Well worth the extra tire wear.
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04-19-2014, 07:37 PM | #16 | |
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04-19-2014, 08:49 PM | #17 | |
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You sure you don't mean toe out in front? Or maybe those are your settings in rear? |
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04-19-2014, 11:06 PM | #18 | ||
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04-19-2014, 11:19 PM | #19 |
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04-20-2014, 12:15 AM | #20 |
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I'm going to suggest it's normal. If you've ever driven extensively any of the BMWs from the mid 90s to very early 2000 range, especially those equipped with Servotronic steering, this "dart-y" or nervous steering is what made BMWs different from your average daily driving appliance.
Coupled with a short wheel base and a very short steering ratio, what some would consider the greatest steering feel BMW has made in ages, if you're not used to it, to be "twitchy."
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04-21-2014, 12:35 PM | #21 |
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My settings are -3.2 front with zero toe , and -2.2 rear with .12 total toe in . Very stable under braking and in fast corners , my suspension settings and solid bushings make weight transitions happen FAST so quick precise inputs are rewarded , but the communication is telepathic . I know exactly what the chassis and each wheel is doing .
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02-01-2020, 12:38 PM | #22 | |
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any solution to this problem....? i have precisely the same issue in my Z4! |
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