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      06-15-2018, 03:08 PM   #133
dre99gsx
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Just made some good power No I'm not trying to make 1000 Fine tuning, that's all. Fact - this is the power level I've been running for about 5 of the past HPDE sessions. So far so good.

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      06-16-2018, 03:12 PM   #134
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sounds awesome, bet it must be a beast on the street. Enjoy that power
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      06-16-2018, 08:40 PM   #135
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Insane power for a z.
Not even going to bother if its whp or crank.

Is this kind of power (and the huge torque increase at 3,5-4,5krpm) possible to put on the road decently or would 4wd be a benefit? Within 1000rpm the torque more than doubles, so I can imagine that that can be quite dangerous if you're not prepared for that.

Do you have an afr graph?
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      06-16-2018, 08:56 PM   #136
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This is wheel hp, 15% drivetrain loss would put this at ~700hp at the crank, but who's counting lol.

It's quite civilized, and I have no problem putting the power down at the track in 3rd and up, even on corner exit of local road coarse. Keep in mind I rev out to 8000-8500 and am barely at 3k or 4krpm, thus it's a different way of driving vs. 3.0si engine originally.

I have quite a bit of telemtry for each pull, but none exported to graph. If your curious, I run 11.5:1 straight across and peak at 60% injector duty. This is all on the stock Z4 pump and 1200cc injectors. Stock pumps flow quite a bit of fuel surprisingly.
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      06-16-2018, 09:14 PM   #137
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60% injector duty is very safe.
Then again 1200cc injectors is huge compared to stock bmw engines.

The stock z4m injector does (according to bosch) 193 gram/min (n-Heptane @3bar).
Thats about 282cc/min @3bar (but the z4m pump runs at 5 bar I think? that would be equivalent 364cc/min)

Very quick&dirty calculation by injector difference: do you run at about 2.2 bar intake pressure? (17,5psi boost) (I took 90% max duty cycle as input from a z4m injector. If thats less, you're running more boost )
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      06-16-2018, 09:57 PM   #138
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I'm running 22psi boost, and the pump is at 72psi full voltage (5 bar). You can go crazy and calculate VE, but I believe I'm at 0.58ish BSFC.

Keep in mind I'm also injecting about 1400cc of meth and water, which take up some of that space in the combustion chamber. How much? I don't know, but you can divide by 6 and back-calculate if you feel all the girls at the pub are too old for your taste tonight

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      08-28-2018, 08:09 PM   #139
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UPDATE: Knock on wood, running strong. I've logged:

- 47 total 20-25min track sessions (about 16hrs of 'racing')
- 6000miles on the setup
- Not a single launch, not a single drift, not a single clutch drop, not a single burnout. Not willing to add extra stress.

Recap: Stock 2jz engine, stock GS6-37BZ 6spd, Clutchmasters clutch FX400, Z4M rear axles, 3.64 Auto rear (now with Quaife), Z4 Auto driveshaft.

This power level must be abusive for the drivetrain, and I took a risk in this build not knowing what are the limits of the drivetrain (motor excluded...). I didn't think this would hold 500wheel torque / 600wheel hp for very long, but I'm impressed. (if you go by 15% drivetrain loss, that's 700bhp?)

I'm tempted to raise the boost and make another 50whp; it's that easy. Why? Because I can, because it's fun. BUT - where is the limit? Does anyone have any empirical data on anyone else who's pushed these parts further than I have? Since they're shared with other platforms, perhaps there is info out there.

I'm particularly worried about driveshaft, axles, diff and transmission.
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      08-28-2018, 09:28 PM   #140
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That is an amazing build. You sir, are my hero.
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      08-29-2018, 08:17 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dre99gsx View Post
UPDATE: Knock on wood, running strong. I've logged:

- 47 total 20-25min track sessions (about 16hrs of 'racing')
- 6000miles on the setup
- Not a single launch, not a single drift, not a single clutch drop, not a single burnout. Not willing to add extra stress.

Recap: Stock 2jz engine, stock GS6-37BZ 6spd, Clutchmasters clutch FX400, Z4M rear axles, 3.64 Auto rear (now with Quaife), Z4 Auto driveshaft.

This power level must be abusive for the drivetrain, and I took a risk in this build not knowing what are the limits of the drivetrain (motor excluded...). I didn't think this would hold 500wheel torque / 600wheel hp for very long, but I'm impressed. (if you go by 15% drivetrain loss, that's 700bhp?)

I'm tempted to raise the boost and make another 50whp; it's that easy. Why? Because I can, because it's fun. BUT - where is the limit? Does anyone have any empirical data on anyone else who's pushed these parts further than I have? Since they're shared with other platforms, perhaps there is info out there.

I'm particularly worried about driveshaft, axles, diff and transmission.
Redneck mathz:

If the stock drivetrain is built for 200,000kms at 325hp. Wouldn't that mean you should get half the life from twice the power?




NOW TURN UP THE BOOST

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      08-29-2018, 08:37 AM   #142
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Genius!
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      08-29-2018, 11:25 AM   #143
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Great Results! Great work!
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      09-20-2018, 11:15 AM   #144
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Awesome build! I want to build at my shop www.DRAGint.com an e92 328i 6 speed manual with 2JZGTE VVTI and Infinity AEM and this has given us major hope!
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      10-30-2019, 02:47 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tominizer View Post
Interesting. Looking forward to see how this all turns out.
Hey man, what did you end up doing for a shift linkage? I'm doing the same swap in my e85 and was curious if you had to end up shortening yours or not.
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      10-30-2019, 07:47 PM   #146
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Cut and re-weld the linkage and support bracket. Easy peasy. Post pics of your build!

Speaking of - year later, still running like gangbusters at the track.

- now 122 20-25min track sessions (about 40.7hrs of 'racing')
- 7750 miles on the setup

What has gone wrong since last update:
- Blew two rear diffs - I suspect heat related. On a 3rd one, made some revised air management for the diff housing fins and now on thicker Motul fluid. Crossing my fingers.
- Blew two turbos - warped the turbine housings from the heat, and bust oil seals. On 3rd rebuilt turbo with improved seals. Upped water injection to help cool down exhaust temps.
- Melted ECS tuning Poly diff bushings due to heat.

Engine still strong, everything else so far holding up. I'm just waiting for this engine to go, it's supposed to not last this long...
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      11-01-2019, 01:25 AM   #147
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Thought about a diff cooler? That would prob help a lot I'd say.
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      05-20-2020, 02:40 PM   #148
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I just found this from a random YouTube video (thanks Google algorithm!) and have to say, what a mental build! How are you managing all the heat though?
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      07-14-2021, 08:49 AM   #149
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UPDATE:

Something finally gave.

- now 161 20-25min track sessions (about 54hrs of 'racing')
- 9300 miles on the setup
- 5 years going...

At Pocono raceway, you know it has those long tri-oval sections where you can go wide open on the banked turns? Well, apparently the stock 6-spd transmission decided enough was enough, and I grenaded it while somehow decelerating into the North coarse infield. It pulled hard in 5th, slammed the brakes, car got jolted from the transition to the infield, I downshifted to 4th, took the apex and hit the gas, nothing but a box of marbles at that point.

The transmission seemed to be stout enough for 500wheel torque all these years, but I probably reached the limit of power.
I suspect I overheated the fluid - this was my 5th session of the day, 20 min on, 40 min off. Fluid was 3 events old Motul 300 75w90. I'm also not sure if the high sustained G-forces from the tri-oval banking may have starved the trans of oil? No idea if this is even an issue but who knows.

I can officially say that the only main mechanical component left that still hasn't failed is.... drum roll: the 2JZ

I'm sure I'll eat that statement next time out but what a workhorse.

The bright side is I have another transmission ready to swap in, but this time I need to invest in a trans cooler and figure out how to mount it.

I also ran 0.57sec laps that day, fastest I've ever been on this course, and what a rush!
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      07-14-2021, 09:02 AM   #150
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In all fairness you're running about twice the torque the gearbox is rated for
(the gearbox is factory-rated for 370Nm and you're running about 670Nm looking at your dynoruns)
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      07-14-2021, 09:08 AM   #151
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That's right GS6-37BZ. I always cringe when I would go full throttle in this car, thinking "any day now" lol. Glad it happened when and where it did, I was able to pull over with no issue. Shifter was stuck in neutral and won't shift into any gear. Towed right to my trailer.

GS6-53BZ won't fit in the tunnel (E46 M3 trans) as far as I know, although I haven't tried. 53BZ pilot bearing is in different location as well. I'm stuck with this transmission with my current setup as far as I know.
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      11-08-2021, 08:20 AM   #152
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Alright, this hasn't been a good season. Replacement trans is holding up so far with a pump and cooler running.

I'm able to keep temps at or below 220F. Only time will tell.

I also ran the Diff cooler and it's keeping temps at 250F (rarely) or below, usually in 210-230 range. Good news is the Diff rear poly bushing is no longer melting (remember, 3.0si diff with Quaife in here)

Bad news is I blew my 2nd diff now at the last event This was after it was rebuilt 2 years ago with proper tolerances and such. It lasted me 14 events (~88 20min. HPDE sessions, or about 22 hours of abuse).

I need to make a decision here. Either rebuild again, and take my chances (perhaps the damage was already done from hours of high temp pre-diff cooler), and give it one more try. OR, start preparing for Z4M rear conversion. I assume the Z4M/E46M3 diff is beefier and has history of holding more torque?

I've been reading on here what I need, and I should be able to source all the parts but really wanted a Z4M/M3 rear diff with quaife (I don't want clutch packs). We're talking subframe, halfshafts, driveshaft, rear shocks?, new bushings throughout, new rear wheels (offsets), and who knows what else.
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      11-12-2021, 04:41 AM   #153
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I'm constantly impressed with how much engineering and design work went into cooling the rear diff on my Z4MC. Massive aluminum cooling fins comprising the rear cover, NACA ducts in front to feed air in, diffuser in back to pull air out. I don't know if you can fit all of that into the si without additional modifications, and I don't know if it would be enough to keep the diff cool in your set of conditions. But it is an impressive thing to see.

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      11-12-2021, 08:37 AM   #154
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It does look well done for sure, although the 3.0si is also well ducted from factory.

Regardless, the fact I hit 260 on a hard HPDE session with a 19row cooler and fan tells me I need more cooling. This is probably better than what I had before where I was melting the Diff Poly-bushing (Diff case must have been getting to 300F, imagine the fluid inside?)

So, my next step is to rebuild the diff again, but this time I hope that I'll be starting fresh with a properly cooled diff, and we'll see how long this one lasts. I sourced two more diffs, one with 25k miles which looks almost new.

Interesting thing is this diff has no pinion preload (for those of you who build diffs), and I expected ~12". I can rotate the pinion effortlessly. Also, from factory, .004" backlash.

I'm upgrading the oil cooler core from 19row x 4.8" to a 19row x 9.5" to see if I can prevent the rear diff from ever reaching 220+.
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