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      12-19-2011, 02:49 PM   #1
msh441
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Dealer installed my drilled rotors BACKWARDS!

OK, so I just recently had the rotors, pads and a front caliper replaced under warranty on my 2007 Z4 M Coupe. I just noticed however, that the dealer that did the work, installed the rotors backwards (left on the right and right on the left).

I've put less than 200 miles on the car since it was done, and haven't driven it hard enough to notice anything out of the ordinary, or generate much heat.

Can someone tell me: are the cooling vanes INSIDE the rotors curved (likley oppsite the raidial pattern of the holes), or straight from the hub?

The reason I ask is, if they're curve, in order to funnel air TOWARDS the hub, I'm likley loosing a sugnificant amount of cooling abilibly by having them reversed. If they straight vaines, I'm not going to sweat it as much.

Just trying to decide if the car should stay parked until my Friday's service appointment, and how gingerly I need to drive in when I take it in the 60 miles to get it corrected.
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      12-19-2011, 07:22 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msh441 View Post
OK, so I just recently had the rotors, pads and a front caliper replaced under warranty on my 2007 Z4 M Coupe. I just noticed however, that the dealer that did the work, installed the rotors backwards (left on the right and right on the left).

I've put less than 200 miles on the car since it was done, and haven't driven it hard enough to notice anything out of the ordinary, or generate much heat.

Can someone tell me: are the cooling vanes INSIDE the rotors curved (likley oppsite the raidial pattern of the holes), or straight from the hub?

The reason I ask is, if they're curve, in order to funnel air TOWARDS the hub, I'm likley loosing a sugnificant amount of cooling abilibly by having them reversed. If they straight vaines, I'm not going to sweat it as much.

Just trying to decide if the car should stay parked until my Friday's service appointment, and how gingerly I need to drive in when I take it in the 60 miles to get it corrected.
Vanes are curved. I wouldn't lose sleep over this, so long as you're not tracking the car between now and getting them put on the correct sides.

If you have a 120 mile round trip back to the dealer, you could swap them yourself in a lot less time. All you need is a set of metric sockets and hex keys and a torque wrench. Remove wheel, remove the two caliper guides, slide the caliper off the backet (new rotors/pads, that'll be easy), remove the two bracket bolts and the rotor set screw, and off comes the rotor. Reverse to put 'em back. Total of 10 bolts per wheel, and 5 of those are the wheel lugs. Really easy DIY. Hardest part is, since you have to get both wheels up at the same time to swap the rotors, is you'd have to put it on jack stands or use two jacks if you have them. (DON'T ever get under the car unless on stands; but that's not required for brakes.) We can guide you if any of that is unfamilair.
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      12-19-2011, 09:27 PM   #3
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There is no backwards or forwards with drilled or slotted rotors. Its a preference thing really. If you have the curve going towards the back of the car its overall good braking, if the curves are facing the front of the car people will tell you the pads bite harder thus stopping quicker. I didnt notice one or the other personally. But changing them is super easy like MFGJR said.
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      12-19-2011, 10:37 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DataStream18 View Post
There is no backwards or forwards with drilled or slotted rotors.
I would agree that the direction of the slots and cross-drilled holes makes little or no difference... the vanes INSIDE the however can be designed to have a specific direction to them:



Straight vain, as above, rotational direction matters little, just as you said... on the other hand...



... curved internal vanes "scoop" cool air as they rotate and direct the air towards the hub. I don't know how much cooling they provide under normal driving conditions (hence my question), but they are designed with a specific rotational direction.

As far as changing them myself, I was sooooo tempted today as I had the car on a lift, while attending to some curb damage... but the dealer has offered to pay for it and I'm anticipating the usual BMW "How can we make it right?" question... and I still need some new rear pads, soooooo... (fingers crossed).

Last edited by msh441; 12-19-2011 at 10:43 PM..
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      12-19-2011, 10:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msh441 View Post
... but the dealer has offered to pay for it and I'm anticipating the usual BMW "How can we make it right?" question... and I still need some new rear pads, soooooo... (fingers crossed).
Consider yourself extremely lucky as-is. A lot of stealershits will fix their error(s) and curse you behind your back while doing it
It's always a good thing to check stealershit work done to car. Can never bee to safe
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      12-20-2011, 12:29 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFGJR View Post
Hardest part is, since you have to get both wheels up at the same time to swap the rotors, is you'd have to put it on jack stands or use two jacks if you have them.
If you don't have jacks to lift both left and right wheels at the same time, you can refit a wheel on the hub only (while brake rotor is removed), in order to move the jack to the other side, assuming that:
a) you first screw-in fully a wheel bolt on the hub (rotor and wheel off) and check for interference with the ABS sensor while slowly turning the hub. If there's not interference, you can refit the wheel as you usually do, even if the brake rotor is off;
b) if there's interference with the ABS sensor, then position the wheel hub so that one wheel bolt would point straight to the ABS sensor, then mount the wheel and fit only 4 bolts (all except the one pointing to the sensor). Just make sure you don't rotate the wheel until you remove it again.

It did this years ago on an E28 535i without any issues.
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      12-20-2011, 01:32 AM   #7
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Also for clarification: A dealer out of town cocked it up...

BMW Seattle is doing the correction on Dealer A's dime.

Also, a big thanks on the "one wheel at a time w/one jack method. I was curious about that, as The jacks I have now wont reach the center/front jack point. I was really curious if that would work.

As long as I can go easy the next couple days and limp it in Friday for the fix, it'll work out.

PITA, though...
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      12-24-2011, 11:56 PM   #8
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Well, BMW Seattle fixed my rotors, dd a service inspection on the car, and set the personalization on my blinkers how I wanted them (3-flash). Took them about an hour Friday morning and it gave me a change to order a handful o parts I needed, as well.

Then I sat around for two hours while BMW Seattle called the other dealership to coordinate reimbursement on the brake fix. After two hours an more than a half dozen calls, I ended up paying for the work myself as I needed to be back work and couldn't wait any longer.

Pretty frustrated right now. Wrote a long letter and e-mail I Customer relations, but not expecting any resolution at this point.

Grrrrrrr!!!!
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      12-25-2011, 02:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msh441 View Post
Well, BMW Seattle fixed my rotors, dd a service inspection on the car, and set the personalization on my blinkers how I wanted them (3-flash). Took them about an hour Friday morning and it gave me a change to order a handful o parts I needed, as well.

Then I sat around for two hours while BMW Seattle called the other dealership to coordinate reimbursement on the brake fix. After two hours an more than a half dozen calls, I ended up paying for the work myself as I needed to be back work and couldn't wait any longer.

Pretty frustrated right now. Wrote a long letter and e-mail I Customer relations, but not expecting any resolution at this point.

Grrrrrrr!!!!
and on this whole debacle.
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      12-29-2011, 02:06 AM   #10
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An update (in fairness): it appears my account has now been credited the price of the brake work by BMW Seattle. So Pirello BMW did, in the end, follow through and pay for the work owed... but it wasn't without some wasted time and unnecessary stress (as you could likely read into my posts). Done is done - I'm moving on, now.
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      12-31-2011, 05:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msh441 View Post


... curved internal vanes "scoop" cool air as they rotate and direct the air towards the hub. I don't know how much cooling they provide under normal driving conditions (hence my question), but they are designed with a specific rotational direction.

As far as changing them myself, I was sooooo tempted today as I had the car on a lift, while attending to some curb damage... but the dealer has offered to pay for it and I'm anticipating the usual BMW "How can we make it right?" question... and I still need some new rear pads, soooooo... (fingers crossed).
They do not "scoop" air toward the hub, they do the exact opposite, the "fling" (if you have to use a comprehensible word) air away from the hub.
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      12-31-2011, 06:30 PM   #12
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????

and set the personalization on my blinkers how I wanted them (3-flash).???? do wha????
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      12-31-2011, 06:34 PM   #13
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and set the personalization on my blinkers how I wanted them (3-flash).???? do wha????
one touch & they blink three times.
Very nice feature for lane changes.
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