z4 Top is not going down

anilkakumani · 06-25-2018, 07:34 AM

Hi All,

I have an issue with my 2007 Z4 convertible soft top. Its not lowering. When I try to lower, it gets unlatched from the body and stays their except windows going down half way. Micro switch in the trunk is working fine. When I try to lower the top, motor sounds well(not sure if burnt motors really sound or some thing else faulty). I called local dealer and he told me that motor itself will cost $750. Could some one suggest if this is a motor problem , if so please suggest me some great site where I can get OEM parts. I stay in New York area. Please let me know if you anybody who can replace motor at a cheaper rate.I am sure that dealer will rip me off if take my car to their service center and I dont wanna do that

Thanks,
Anil

rsutoratosu · 06-25-2018, 08:46 AM

I'm in the same boat I was just going to ask.. there is a DIY to relocate it to the trunk in the DIY section.. on part 54347193448 - I saw a few BMW dealer on ebay going for 515 - 619. Under the 750.

I'm dead too, in nyc. I'll probably diy this winter as Im clearing out the garage to store the car for repair but getting the parts ready now

bmwclubracer · 06-26-2018, 09:56 PM

Others can comment with better info, in the meantime I'll share my experience.

I replaced a top motor on a previous Z4...was $1200 if I recall at a reputable shop. Had to sell that car due to unforeseen financial issue.

A few years later got a killer deal on what I thought was a very good condition 3.0Si. And it was, but of course the motor failed. It's a design flaw, the motor sits below the top in a tub that rainwater drains into and out of. Problem is the tub drain gets blocked and your motor spends years sitting in water and eventually rusts out.

I got on my FB local BMW owners page and found a guy that could not only do install but was willing to mount the pump (motor) in the trunk where it's protected from all water. Best part is the guy builds and maintains track/race cars and had a buddy who just gutted and built up a Z4. So I got the used pump for $150 and he estimated installing it in the trunk would add about $75 over his reasonable price for replacing the pump in standard location. It requires a little bit of cutting in the trunk area.

When I got the car it took the top maybe 20 seconds to drop and raise, I found that acceptable but it was obvious to me now that the pump was already failing. Now the pump completes operation in either direction in about 10 seconds, night and day. Yes, it's a used pump but I think it will be just fine now that it's dry. If it fails, I'm sure I can buy a new pump and replace it myself since it's in a spot that easy to get to. Best part is you can only tell it's in the trunk if you looked at two Z4s side by side with the trunk open. There's just a slight bulge on the left side of the trunk, he even wrapped it in carpet to disguise and protect it. I HIGHLY recommend relocating the pump to the trunk. It might be DIY but I didn't have the tools, skill, or the time. You tube it or somebody will post the professional write up.

Good luck!

ADent · 06-27-2018, 12:19 AM

My motor looks new, but one of my hydraulic cylinders was leaking. I had fluid on the floor just in front of the rear wheel - it kinda worked for a while until I ran out of fluid.

WAMz4 · 06-27-2018, 02:46 PM

I had the same problem a few months ago, here is a good way to tell if the motor is working.
Release the red loop in the trunk (pull out and twist so it stays out) this disengages the motor from the roof so you can manually open and close the top. Use the buttons on the console to release the latches but listen to see if the motor still turns with no grinding sounds (that would indicate the gears are not meshing with the motor) If the roof unlatches and the motor hums like normal, something else is going on.
For me it was the actual emergency release mechanism (the red loop) the cable came loose and was stuck disengaged - just needed to be reattached. It was a lot cheaper than a whole new motor.

antennahead · 06-28-2018, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WAMz4

I had the same problem a few months ago, here is a good way to tell if the motor is working.
Release the red loop in the trunk (pull out and twist so it stays out) this disengages the motor from the roof so you can manually open and close the top. Use the buttons on the console to release the latches but listen to see if the motor still turns with no grinding sounds (that would indicate the gears are not meshing with the motor) If the roof unlatches and the motor hums like normal, something else is going on.
For me it was the actual emergency release mechanism (the red loop) the cable came loose and was stuck disengaged - just needed to be reattached. It was a lot cheaper than a whole new motor.

Similar thing happened to me a few months back. These things are very finicky. I had not pulled the emergency release mechanism, but had just bumped the cable putting something large in the trunk without raising the tray or moving the tray switch. After about 10 minutes of frustration, I grabbed the cable by the cover, down line of the red loop, wiggled it a few times and voila......... top back to perfect working condition

06-25-2018, 07:34 AM	#1
anilkakumani New Member 1 Rep 6 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW Z4 Join Date: May 2014 Location: Denver iTrader: (0)	z4 Top is not going down Hi All, I have an issue with my 2007 Z4 convertible soft top. Its not lowering. When I try to lower, it gets unlatched from the body and stays their except windows going down half way. Micro switch in the trunk is working fine. When I try to lower the top, motor sounds well(not sure if burnt motors really sound or some thing else faulty). I called local dealer and he told me that motor itself will cost $750. Could some one suggest if this is a motor problem , if so please suggest me some great site where I can get OEM parts. I stay in New York area. Please let me know if you anybody who can replace motor at a cheaper rate.I am sure that dealer will rip me off if take my car to their service center and I dont wanna do that Thanks, Anil
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06-25-2018, 08:46 AM	#2
rsutoratosu Captain 114 Rep 779 Posts Drives: Z4 3.0i Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Chicago, IL iTrader: (0)	I'm in the same boat I was just going to ask.. there is a DIY to relocate it to the trunk in the DIY section.. on part 54347193448 - I saw a few BMW dealer on ebay going for 515 - 619. Under the 750. I'm dead too, in nyc. I'll probably diy this winter as Im clearing out the garage to store the car for repair but getting the parts ready now __________________ -Roranji
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06-26-2018, 09:56 PM	#3
bmwclubracer Enlisted Member 8 Rep 34 Posts Drives: Z4 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Georgia iTrader: (0)	Others can comment with better info, in the meantime I'll share my experience. I replaced a top motor on a previous Z4...was $1200 if I recall at a reputable shop. Had to sell that car due to unforeseen financial issue. A few years later got a killer deal on what I thought was a very good condition 3.0Si. And it was, but of course the motor failed. It's a design flaw, the motor sits below the top in a tub that rainwater drains into and out of. Problem is the tub drain gets blocked and your motor spends years sitting in water and eventually rusts out. I got on my FB local BMW owners page and found a guy that could not only do install but was willing to mount the pump (motor) in the trunk where it's protected from all water. Best part is the guy builds and maintains track/race cars and had a buddy who just gutted and built up a Z4. So I got the used pump for $150 and he estimated installing it in the trunk would add about $75 over his reasonable price for replacing the pump in standard location. It requires a little bit of cutting in the trunk area. When I got the car it took the top maybe 20 seconds to drop and raise, I found that acceptable but it was obvious to me now that the pump was already failing. Now the pump completes operation in either direction in about 10 seconds, night and day. Yes, it's a used pump but I think it will be just fine now that it's dry. If it fails, I'm sure I can buy a new pump and replace it myself since it's in a spot that easy to get to. Best part is you can only tell it's in the trunk if you looked at two Z4s side by side with the trunk open. There's just a slight bulge on the left side of the trunk, he even wrapped it in carpet to disguise and protect it. I HIGHLY recommend relocating the pump to the trunk. It might be DIY but I didn't have the tools, skill, or the time. You tube it or somebody will post the professional write up. Good luck!
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06-27-2018, 12:19 AM	#4
ADent New Member 3 Rep 11 Posts Drives: Z4 Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: Denver, CO iTrader: (0)	My motor looks new, but one of my hydraulic cylinders was leaking. I had fluid on the floor just in front of the rear wheel - it kinda worked for a while until I ran out of fluid.
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06-27-2018, 02:46 PM	#5
WAMz4 First Lieutenant 45 Rep 384 Posts Drives: 2006 Z4 3.0si Roady Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Denver CO iTrader: (0)	I had the same problem a few months ago, here is a good way to tell if the motor is working. Release the red loop in the trunk (pull out and twist so it stays out) this disengages the motor from the roof so you can manually open and close the top. Use the buttons on the console to release the latches but listen to see if the motor still turns with no grinding sounds (that would indicate the gears are not meshing with the motor) If the roof unlatches and the motor hums like normal, something else is going on. For me it was the actual emergency release mechanism (the red loop) the cable came loose and was stuck disengaged - just needed to be reattached. It was a lot cheaper than a whole new motor. __________________ The Internet said it. I believe it. That settles it!
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