Griots/ Gyeon application process

[WestfordChris]

I just bought a 2022 X5 that I would like to ceramic coat, so I am going to practice on my son's 8-year-old Acura MDX. I decided to use Griots paint prep and Gyeon ceramic coating.

Here is my plan:
1 decontaminate with Griot's iron remover as well as clay bar with speed shine.
2 Light correction with Griots correcting cream and orange pad on my PorterCable ROS polisher
3 Polishing with Griots perfecting cream and yellow pad
4 Gyeon prep and then Q² Mohs EVO ceramic

Does this process make sense? Am I missing a polishing step between 3 and 4? Ceramic coating seems to be more of an "application" than any polishing/smoothing.

Should I be using a finer pad with the perfecting cream?

thanks,
Chris

[Nettles]

Originally Posted by WestfordChris

I just bought a 2022 X5 that I would like to ceramic coat, so I am going to practice on my son's 8-year-old Acura MDX. I decided to use Griots paint prep and Gyeon ceramic coating.

Here is my plan:
1 decontaminate with Griot's iron remover as well as clay bar with speed shine.
2 Light correction with Griots correcting cream and orange pad on my PorterCable ROS polisher
3 Polishing with Griots perfecting cream and yellow pad
4 Gyeon prep and then Q² Mohs EVO ceramic

Does this process make sense? Am I missing a polishing step between 3 and 4? Ceramic coating seems to be more of an "application" than any polishing/smoothing.

Should I be using a finer pad with the perfecting cream?

thanks,
Chris

I think your process is fine. Don’t overthink it and just enjoy the experience. You chose great products. Everyone is loving MOHS

[TboneS54]

Griot's boss line finishes really well, so you don't have to do a final polish with perfecting cream. Correcting cream will breakdown (but not dry out) and the foam pad will ensure a good enough, LSP ready surface.

As far as advice, I'll mention someting from my recent experiecne of applying gyeon. That's the application process/wipe off. Their applicator is fine, but it collapsed on me several times (it's tall and not that wide). Just go slowly and evenly. Long flash time, so no worries. The main issue for me was wipe off, and I used high quality towels, but some of hte product just gets pushed onto adjacent panels or glass, so I had to use 2 towels, the second to come by and finish removing product after the first wipe off.

The other issue was where to hold the towels and applicator while switching between. Hooks work well. Just have some game plan ready for that IMO.

[WestfordChris]

Originally Posted by TboneS54

Griot's boss line finishes really well, so you don't have to do a final polish with perfecting cream. Correcting cream will breakdown (but not dry out) and the foam pad will ensure a good enough, LSP ready surface.

The other issue was where to hold the towels and applicator while switching between. The hooks work well. Just have some game plan ready for that IMO.

Hmm, do I also need the fast correcting cream to start?

Good tip on storing the application towels.

Thanks,
Chris

[TboneS54]

Depends on what defects you have, and your expecations, and how much clear you want to leave over the years for future correction.

The versatility of the Griot's BOSS creams is nice - you could do first step with a MF pad which will build more heat faster (since you're using a d/a) and provide some actual cut, then do a second step with a polishing pad (white CSS or hex pad, tangerine hydrotech, orange LC SDO, yellow Griot's boss).

Sorry, I missed that you listed a second step with the Boss perfecting cream. I'm thinking you can just do one step with the orange pad and correcting cream.

If you really needed 2 steps, if there were some defects/scratchs that you think would come out with some actual cutting compound, the orange pad and correcting cream then wouldn't be aggressive enough IMO. There's not a lot of difference between the correcting cream on orange pad and perfectin cream on yellow pad.

If you want to do 2 steps instead of 1, I would recommend a MF pad with fast correcting cream. Or perhaps their white cutting foam pad is stiff enough.

If you proceed with the correcting cream and orange pad, you will have to put a lot of pressure and move very slowly, AND keep your work area to less than 2'x2' in order to build enough heat to do an actual cutting. You'll use up a lot of product, you'll be tired, and you'll take a long time to get results.

[WestfordChris]

I am more interested in maximum shine and protection than buffing out every surface defect. All our cars are daily drivers in the Northeast, so they get plenty of wear.

It sounds like the fast correcting cream with MF or white pad and a second step of perfecting cream with the yellow pad would be a better combination on 8 year old paint? I know you can't really tell unless you are looking at it of course.

The car is always garaged and twice a year I clay the car and apply insulator carnauba wax. I am sure there are light swirls, but I have always used green LC pads on my PC buffer.

I think you are telling me that the cutting cream with the orange pad does not cut very much, which might be what I am looking for.

Thanks,
Chris

[TboneS54]

If you're prioritising clarity/depth/gloss, then you just need the polish/finishing. The perfecting cream on a polishing pad (yellow for Griot's, white or green for LC/CGs). I just did this to my E90 and then applied Gyeon Pure Evo.

Make sure to wipe the panel with IPA solution or panel prep product before coating since the BOSS line of creams have polishing oils that extend play time.

[WestfordChris]

Wow, that looks amazing.

I did purchase the Gyeon prep spray and will make sure to use it.

I will post the results in a few weeks when all this stuff is delivered.

Chris

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

That's perfectly fine way to apply.

I'm about to do mine to soon.

[NoMods]

Gyeon is a great choice, watch a couple of Todd Cooperriders videos from Esoteric on YouTube, he explains it well and his shop was just a few miles from my house.

[WestfordChris]

I had a ton of success over the weekend. I decided to practice on my son's 2014 Acura MDX. The car has been more or less garaged since new and has received a claying with a top coat of Insulator carnauba wax once or twice a year.

The correcting cream and orange pad were perfect for removing light scratches in the clear coat. We had a slight scratch in the hood which was easily removed. Of course, scratches down to the color coat would not come out but this is a 9-year-old car.

Applying the Gyeon was super easy, I used their prep as well as the bald and soft wipe. I liked using the prep with a few microfiber towels to really clean each panel thoroughly of the perfecting cream.

On my 2022 X5, I am going to start with the decontamination and go straight to the perfecting cream to prepare for the coating.

[WestfordChris]

Finally got around to ceramic coating my X5. Since the paint was super clean, I did the following:

1 decontaminate with Griot's iron remover as well as clay bar with speed shine. Where the Acura has a ton of embedded iron, there was almost nothing on the BMW.
2 Polishing with Griots perfecting cream and yellow pad
3 Gyeon prep and then Q² Mohs EVO ceramic

The results speak for themselves.

Chris

[leasehackr]

Originally Posted by TboneS54

If you're prioritising clarity/depth/gloss, then you just need the polish/finishing. The perfecting cream on a polishing pad (yellow for Griot's, white or green for LC/CGs). I just did this to my E90 and then applied Gyeon Pure Evo.

Make sure to wipe the panel with IPA solution or panel prep product before coating since the BOSS line of creams have polishing oils that extend play time.

Hello

I just picked up Carbon Black 2024 X5 a couple of weeks ago.

I can see 1-2 spider webs on the hood and a thin hairline scratch on the clear coat. It was probably done during transportation.

I’m going to do the GYEON Q² CANCOAT EVO ceramic spray coating.


Does this make sense?

Sequence:

1. Foam wash.

2. Gyeon Iron

3. Which clay kit do I need? This is a brand new X5.

4. Bucket Wash

5. Meguiar Ultimate Polish https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/...6-16-oz-liquid

6. or Skip Meguiar Ultimate Polish and use Perfecting cream to remove swirl marks and light scratches before coating.

BOSS™ PERFECTING CREAM - Can I use this with Meguiar DA Power system with Polishing Pad?
https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/...a-power-system

7. Final wipe before spray coating with Gyeon Q²M Prep

8. GYEON Q² CANCOAT EVO ceramic spray coating

[TboneS54]

Right, there's no point to using 2 polishes. Depending on how much you want to remove, you might want to use a compound and stiffer foam or mf pad. I would just use the boss cream, inspect afterwards and you might be pleased enough to not bother digging deeper.

I like mother's clay kit, but there's clay from other brands. Actually, I'm using a clay mitt these days - super fast.

[leasehackr]

Originally Posted by TboneS54

Right, there's no point to using 2 polishes. Depending on how much you want to remove, you might want to use a compound and stiffer foam or mf pad. I would just use the boss cream, inspect afterwards and you might be pleased enough to not bother digging deeper.

I like mother's clay kit, but there's clay from other brands. Actually, I'm using a clay mitt these days - super fast.

That makes sense, I will use only one polish. I have used Meguiars, Gyeon and Sonax products. Haven't used Griots products.

Are they better than Meguiar and other brands?

Correct, there is no need to use the compound as well. since this is a brand new car. Only 2 hairline scratches and 1-2 spider web. But I want to polish it before coating it with Gyeon spray coat.

Would you pls post the link to clay mitt you are using?

TY

[chefwong]

I think u can skip the clay. Iron can be used on wheels and paint

I hope you're wash and dry game is On Point, as you can put marring right back after the 1st wash if the proper wash or dry technique is not there...

[TboneS54]

Griot's Boss creams are fantastic. Only issue is that they use oils to prolong work time (incredible work time), so you will need to clean the surface (panel prep spray) before LSP (coating/sealant/wax) but that's true with most polishes. Only some are completely inorganic like Dr beasley's NSP.

The clay mitt I use is some chinese knock-off for $10 off ebay, but it works perfectly well.

I also agree you prob don't need clay. Iron X will help, and the polishing stage will remove any tiny things left behind after the chemical decon and the wash.

[leasehackr]

Originally Posted by chefwong

I think u can skip the clay. Iron can be used on wheels and paint

I hope you're wash and dry game is On Point, as you can put marring right back after the 1st wash if the proper wash or dry technique is not there...

Good point, I hope my washing skills are up the notch.

May use your advice as well for washing and drying.

https://www.meguiarsonline.com/forum...int-care-cycle

[leasehackr]

Originally Posted by TboneS54

Griot's Boss creams are fantastic. Only issue is that they use oils to prolong work time (incredible work time), so you will need to clean the surface (panel prep spray) before LSP (coating/sealant/wax) but that's true with most polishes. Only some are completely inorganic like Dr beasley's NSP.

The clay mitt I use is some chinese knock-off for $10 off ebay, but it works perfectly well.

I also agree you prob don't need clay. Iron X will help, and the polishing stage will remove any tiny things left behind after the chemical decon and the wash.

Sounds good, will skip the clay.

I have old bottle Gyeon Iron from last year that I didn't use.

I will buy a new Carpros Iron X.

[chefwong]

If you have Shadowline Trim, always hit those area's 1st with q fresh mitt, then the side mirrors and front black bits. AKA, the mitt/water is the cleanest and the piano black is easy to mar.

I always do a HP (high pressure wash rinse) to knock off as much as I can before the mitt.

The *less* you touch it, the less you can induce marring. I universally always dry the car with leaf blower, and then blot dry any remaining bits of water that remain.

In your recent post, I sense you want to take care/maintain the paint. My last comment was just to say, don't screw up all that hard work - cause once can very easily put those small marring you describe right back with bad wash/dyy techniques.

Even with -high solids- coating, marring happens....IMO.

Good luck. And don't forget to open the doors and can coat the jambs, and most importantly the bottom sill, especially the very edge/end of where the front door meets the fender. There is. weep hole in the spot as well as the rear door (middle of the sill) - that a majority of gunk tends to show up there, due to just where the weep hole is relative to the bottom door sill.

[leasehackr]

Originally Posted by chefwong

If you have Shadowline Trim, always hit those area's 1st with q fresh mitt, then the side mirrors and front black bits. AKA, the mitt/water is the cleanest and the piano black is easy to mar.

I always do a HP (high pressure wash rinse) to knock off as much as I can before the mitt.

The *less* you touch it, the less you can induce marring. I universally always dry the car with leaf blower, and then blot dry any remaining bits of water that remain.

In your recent post, I sense you want to take care/maintain the paint. My last comment was just to say, don't screw up all that hard work - cause once can very easily put those small marring you describe right back with bad wash/dyy techniques.

Even with -high solids- coating, marring happens....IMO.

Good luck. And don't forget to open the doors and can coat the jambs, and most importantly the bottom sill, especially the very edge/end of where the front door meets the fender. There is. weep hole in the spot as well as the rear door (middle of the sill) - that a majority of gunk tends to show up there, due to just where the weep hole is relative to the bottom door sill.

Very good advice, TY!

I do foam wash initially and rinse without touching with mitt. 1-2 times if it needed, then do the bucket method.

Never used leaf blower to dry. I have couple of Meguiar water magnet towel.
https://www.meguiarsdirect.com/megui...ing-towel.html

Which Foam do you use for foam wash?

[WestfordChris]

Originally Posted by leasehackr

Hello

I just picked up Carbon Black 2024 X5 a couple of weeks ago.

I can see 1-2 spider webs on the hood and a thin hairline scratch on the clear coat. It was probably done during transportation.

I’m going to do the GYEON Q² CANCOAT EVO ceramic spray coating.

Sounds like you are on the right path.

You can get everything you need from Gyeon and Griots. Make sure you buy the right application and removal microfiber cloths.

I have used clay bars for 25 years on my cars, it is amazing how much contamination that "iron" remover gets out of the paint making the clay bar less needed. You can feel it, a freshly cleaned panel with a spritz of spray wax should be totally drag free when you lightly wipe your finger across it. If the paint is ultra smooth, the clay bar is probably not needed.

Hairline scratches will not be removed with the Griots perfecting cream and yellow pad, you need something that cuts a little more. The perfecting cream is perfect for removing hazing and spider webs.

I will echo what others have said about keeping the paint ultra-clean before applying the ceramic. I used the Gyeon Prep with their microfiber cloths before applying the Q2Mohs.