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      05-04-2016, 08:58 AM   #1
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Cost for coilover install on a Roadster

I looked at a few DIYs on coilover installation. I've never done it, and with the risks involved with a missed step and those springs under tension and not already having the necessary tools have me thinking about having this done at my indy. Would any of you that have had this done mind sharing what it cost for installation?

At the moment, I plan to go with H&R coilovers, and the Rogue Engineering rear shock mounts. I might consider exposing the rear shock mounts, so all the indy has to do is deal with the suspension and not tearing down the trunk of the roadster.

Thanks!

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      05-04-2016, 09:52 AM   #2
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By the book...It's a 2.5 hour job. Typical shop rate ranges between $80-120 per hour. So it'll range from $200-$300. On the Roadster it might take an additional half hour to remove all the trunk linings, but if you're already going to do that...$200-300 depending on what the shop's rates are.

Plus $120-$200 for a 4 wheel alignment. Low end $300 ish, high end $500 total.
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      05-04-2016, 11:41 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
By the book...It's a 2.5 hour job. Typical shop rate ranges between $80-120 per hour. So it'll range from $200-$300. On the Roadster it might take an additional half hour to remove all the trunk linings, but if you're already going to do that...$200-300 depending on what the shop's rates are.

Plus $120-$200 for a 4 wheel alignment. Low end $300 ish, high end $500 total.
Thanks, Hack. That's not as bad as I was expecting. It would probably take me 8 hours.

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      05-04-2016, 02:57 PM   #4
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I did mine in 3 hours, spread out across 3 days after work. We had a 2 post lift and a spring compressor in the garage at work back then.

It's all about having the right tools. I also did the rear trailing arms then, and I can not tell you how much the bushing press or helped and having air powered tools helped.

If you're so inclined, it's actually NOT that difficult, especially if the front strut has all the parts pre-assembled. The whole strut assembly drops out and plops right in with Little work.
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      05-04-2016, 04:59 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
Thanks, Hack. That's not as bad as I was expecting. It would probably take me 8 hours.

Salty
Tool me about 8 hours to do shocks, new stock front mounts, RE rear mounts, and all spring pads.
You need 2 sets of spring compressors, since they're sold in sets of 2, but you really need 3.

Oh, and you're aware of the minor interference issue with the RE RSM on the roadie?
You have to either notch the RE "stud ring", or do like I did and put washers under it.
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Last edited by StickMon; 05-04-2016 at 05:18 PM..
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      05-04-2016, 11:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Tool me about 8 hours to do shocks, new stock front mounts, RE rear mounts, and all spring pads.
You need 2 sets of spring compressors, since they're sold in sets of 2, but you really need 3.

Oh, and you're aware of the minor interference issue with the RE RSM on the roadie?
You have to either notch the RE "stud ring", or do like I did and put washers under it.
I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the heads-up.

Salty
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      05-05-2016, 06:57 AM   #7
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Front struts on the H&R don't come complete, the OE "hats" need to be re-used. Doesn't come with end links either, you may or may not need those if yours are worn

If a shop was working as fast as they could, I bet they could have these out in a couple hours, but you're likely looking at 4+. They'll be taking their time and looking for other things I'm sure. Hack mentioned this too, you'll also need an alignment.

I was able to do mine with just 2 compressors ($30 from Autozone), and I don't recall having to modify my RSM's to get them to fit. I definitely remember that the "roadster trunk woes" are really overblown, but maybe it helps that I have small girly hands

If you're looking to buy the H&R's new, you can save a few bucks from Turner if you put them in your shopping cart and start to check out but don't finish. After a week or so they'll send you an email to finish your purchase with a 5% discount promo code, good for ~$60 on this.
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      05-05-2016, 11:05 AM   #8
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If the H&Rs don't come with top mounts up front, it may behoove you to purchase new top mount and hardware and assemble to front strut assembly first then install it. Having to take the top hat on and off the front strut is going to add some labor time.

But I suppose if you're having the shop do it, it doesn't really matter. Most good shops would have those fancy wall mounted spring compressors that it would add 15-20 minutes having to swap the hats. If not, and all they have are the autozone type compressors? Takes another 1/2 hour minimum to have to swap the front hat.
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      05-05-2016, 11:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
I wasn't aware of that. Thanks for the heads-up.

Salty
There was a thread here somewhere, but I can't find it.
The roadie has a dingus welded near the shock mount that holds the back end of the rear deck raise/lower mech.
The stud ring may sit on the edge of the weld, preventing it from being flush to the body.
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      05-05-2016, 11:15 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
There was a thread here somewhere, but I can't find it.
The roadie has a dingus welded near the shock mount that holds the back end of the rear deck raise/lower mech.
The stud ring may sit on the edge of the weld, preventing it from being flush to the body.
I was going "what the heck is a dingus." I see now it is a doohickey.

Salty
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      05-06-2016, 10:04 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
I was going "what the heck is a dingus." I see now it is a doohickey.

Salty
Shit I was way off, I thought the dingus was referring to the whatchamacallits
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      05-06-2016, 10:27 AM   #12
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Just had it done at a shop with an alignment and oil change total all in $800ish.

We spent a few hours dialing it in to a height that wouldn't rub as much, so it took some extra time.

Just a heads up for alignment the rear doesn't have independent camber adjustment. Toe and camber are on the same so you cannot adjust one without affecting the other. Food for thought.
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      05-06-2016, 05:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3GFX View Post
Just had it done at a shop with an alignment and oil change total all in $800ish.

We spent a few hours dialing it in to a height that wouldn't rub as much, so it took some extra time.

Just a heads up for alignment the rear doesn't have independent camber adjustment. Toe and camber are on the same so you cannot adjust one without affecting the other. Food for thought.
That's closer to what I was quoted. I was quoted $460 for the install without alignment. Maybe our mechanics are too slow.

Thanks for the heads-up on the rear adjustment. I'm guessing you did H&R coilovers, as well?

Would love to see pics of your car after installation, if you have some.

Salty
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      05-06-2016, 05:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yousefnjr View Post
Front struts on the H&R don't come complete, the OE "hats" need to be re-used. Doesn't come with end links either, you may or may not need those if yours are worn

If a shop was working as fast as they could, I bet they could have these out in a couple hours, but you're likely looking at 4+. They'll be taking their time and looking for other things I'm sure. Hack mentioned this too, you'll also need an alignment.

I was able to do mine with just 2 compressors ($30 from Autozone), and I don't recall having to modify my RSM's to get them to fit. I definitely remember that the "roadster trunk woes" are really overblown, but maybe it helps that I have small girly hands

If you're looking to buy the H&R's new, you can save a few bucks from Turner if you put them in your shopping cart and start to check out but don't finish. After a week or so they'll send you an email to finish your purchase with a 5% discount promo code, good for ~$60 on this.
Thanks. Good info. My shop estimated 5+ hours for installation and adjustment. I don't think it will take them that long, but maybe they pad the estimate to make sure they don't come in too cheap.

Appreciate the tips!

Salty
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      05-07-2016, 08:12 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
That's closer to what I was quoted. I was quoted $460 for the install without alignment. Maybe our mechanics are too slow.

Thanks for the heads-up on the rear adjustment. I'm guessing you did H&R coilovers, as well?

Would love to see pics of your car after installation, if you have some.

Salty
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http://www.zpost.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=254
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      05-09-2016, 08:11 PM   #16
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Hey Salty,

If you're somewhat mechanically inclined I would try to do it yourself and pay for the alignment. I recently swapped out the stock springs with H&R lowering springs which is probably 80% of the work it would take to swap out the struts & shocks/springs. First time I've ever done it and I must say it wasn't too difficult. Maybe it's because I'm lucky and every bolt came off as it should. Of course you'll need the right tools. I'd recommend having some sort of impact gun, air or in my case a cordless. Does wonders with getting suspension bolts off. Just rent some spring compressors from AutoZone and have the usual hand tools and 2 floor jacks if possible. I used Bill's web space DIY instructions and they were dead one...PM me if you decide to do it and I'll share what I know. By no means an expert but could provide some help.
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      05-09-2016, 08:59 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milamookie View Post
Hey Salty,

If you're somewhat mechanically inclined I would try to do it yourself and pay for the alignment. I recently swapped out the stock springs with H&R lowering springs which is probably 80% of the work it would take to swap out the struts & shocks/springs. First time I've ever done it and I must say it wasn't too difficult. Maybe it's because I'm lucky and every bolt came off as it should. Of course you'll need the right tools. I'd recommend having some sort of impact gun, air or in my case a cordless. Does wonders with getting suspension bolts off. Just rent some spring compressors from AutoZone and have the usually hand tools and 2 floor jacks if possible. I used bills we space DIY instructions and they were dead one...PM me if you decide to do it and I'll share what I know. By no means an expert but could provide some help.
I appreciate the offer of help. I have to admit, I keep thinking of trying to tackle it. We'll see. Thanks again!

Salty
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      05-09-2016, 09:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3GFX View Post
BC Racing Coils I picked up from Devspeed on the forum.

Pics I have so far:
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=254
Looks great!

Salty
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      05-16-2016, 05:50 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
There was a thread here somewhere, but I can't find it.
The roadie has a dingus welded near the shock mount that holds the back end of the rear deck raise/lower mech.
The stud ring may sit on the edge of the weld, preventing it from being flush to the body.

StickMon,

Is this the thread you were thinking about? The metal tab?

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=639468

Thanks!

Salty
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      05-19-2016, 04:47 PM   #20
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Yea, that might have been it.
Clearly shows the interfering dingus.
I also remember seeing pictures of the stud ring with a notch cut out.
Washers worked for me.
Apparently RE says "Don't worry about it, just torque and enjoy."
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      05-19-2016, 05:07 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Yea, that might have been it.
Clearly shows the interfering dingus.
I also remember seeing pictures of the stud ring with a notch cut out.
Washers worked for me.
Apparently RE says "Don't worry about it, just torque and enjoy."
I saw that. "Don't let those bumps around the hole interfere with your enjoyment. Just put on the stud ring, twerk, and enjoy."

Salty (obviously)
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      05-24-2016, 08:25 AM   #22
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Salty, my indy charged me 4 hours to install shocks/springs which I guess take a little longer to put together than coilovers, but he also replaced the FCABs, shock/strut mounts, bump stops, spring pads, and dust boots. I didn't really know which wear items needed to be replaced, so I thought it was worth it to get it done at the shop where they look at these things every day and can tell if the rubber is starting to crack or not. The worn parts they replaced cost me an extra $200 (all OEM), so find out if your estimate includes some/all of these extra rubber parts that might need to be replaced. I had the alignment done at a specialty shop for $150.

Last edited by Twixboy; 05-24-2016 at 08:33 AM..
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