Creak from front suspension with Vorshlag camber plates

[jaconley]

I have a 2007 M Coupe that is stock except for a set of Vorshlag camber plates and a BMW front strut brace. Recently I broke one of the studs on my camber plates because I was tightening them too much (25 ft-lb vs 16 ft-lb) when I changed the camber. So I had a shop replace the bolt rings on the camber plates and set the alignment.

Now my left front suspension makes a creaking noise when I start to brake, or go over a sudden rise in the pavement like a speed bump. The noise is a single, short creak or crack noise. The noise does not occur when the strut moves up or down over typical bumps in the road, but only when there is a lateral load from the front (like when you first go over a speed bump).

What could be loose that would make this noise?

I checked the torque on the three strut nuts and they are OK. I've lifted the car and tired to move the left front wheel fore and aft, and side to side, but I suppose I don't have the strength to make the creaking noise.

[mtrhed]

Could it be the strut bar mount? Did the shop torque it correctly? I have a strut bar and Vorschlag plates torqued to 20 ft lbs. 16 seems a bit low especially with a strut bar.

[jaconley]

Perhaps. 16 ft-lb is the torque specified by Vorshlag. 25 ft-lb is for the stock strut plate per the BMW shop manual. I don't know what torque is specified for the strut bar. Because I already broke one stud, I'm trying to be careful about not over tightening.

[mtrhed]

Yeah it was just a thought. I know my Ground Control plates on my e30 call for 18ft lbs and won't take much more. I was also advised by GC to use a "beam" style torque wrench as opposed to a "click" style.

[VMZ432]

I have the same issue with my Vorschlag camber plates. They are newly installed and I plan to get them checked so I'll let you know if anything comes up. Subscribed in the meantime.

[jaconley]

Just to be clear, I'm not so sure it is the fault of the camber plates. I used the camber plates for 6 months prior with no noise. It was just after replacing the bolt ring that the noise started.

A few days ago I changed from my "track" to my "street" setup (-2.5 deg to -1.5 deg camber, and 265/35R18 square to stock wheels). The noise is not as bad now. I have noticed that if I turn the steering wheel lock to lock while sitting on the driveway, I hear the noise. I'll mess with it this weekend. I can have my wife turn the wheel while I'm under the car.

[VMZ432]

My tuner seems fairly confident it's the top of the damper rubbing against the shock tower, which would explain why it isn't so bad with your street set-up. Are the tops of your dampers still touching the bodywork with your street set-up, such as in the below pic (not mine)?

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...3/45cf4e05.jpg

The tuner will back off the camber a bit to give more clearance and see if that helps, but I won't get the car back for two weeks due to other stuff (Nov 29th). I'll let you know if that helps.

Perhaps while your wife is turning the wheel, you should put your ear near the top of the strut tower? I should have tried that.

[jaconley]

I took my car into the local BMW dealer to get fixed. Beside the front struts leaking, they said the end links were worn and needed to be replaced. We'll see if that fixes the noise. I'll report back.

Yes, I made sure my damper were away from the edge of the strut tower.

Good luck to you VMZ432.

[jaconley]

The noise turned out to be worn sway bar end links.

[VMZ432]

Glad you got it fixed! For me it was the adjuster interfering with the shocktower. Apparently the vorshlag camber plates can be pulled apart and set-up differently, and for the Z4M that is required. So now the adjuster sits much more centrally, no creaking, and I am happy.

[seank]

Originally Posted by VMZ432

Glad you got it fixed! For me it was the adjuster interfering with the shocktower. Apparently the vorshlag camber plates can be pulled apart and set-up differently, and for the Z4M that is required. So now the adjuster sits much more centrally, no creaking, and I am happy.

You removed your castor. If you want it there, you can probably remove the plates completely.

[VMZ432]

Originally Posted by seank

You removed your castor. If you want it there, you can probably remove the plates completely.

Nope, same castor. But the plates also allow more camber than without. I have 2.8 degrees up front at the moment and tire wear says I need more. I have 2 degrees in the back (or maybe that is 1.8, need to check that) and tire wear tells me that is too much. From memory the most I could get from stock was 2.5 up front.

[seank]

Originally Posted by VMZ432

Nope, same castor. But the plates also allow more camber than without. I have 2.8 degrees up front at the moment and tire wear says I need more. I have 2 degrees in the back (or maybe that is 1.8, need to check that) and tire wear tells me that is too much. From memory the most I could get from stock was 2.5 up front.

If you add more castor, you won't have to put as much stagnant camber to get better tire wear. As you turn the wheel you camber will increase at a greater rate than it presently does. By the looks of it, you could probably add 2 degrees of castor.