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      02-03-2020, 08:47 AM   #23
jns_e85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanne View Post
I havent heard of anyone with dramas from the RR adaptors, that said, i dont run them.
Not really why i responded to this thread, but there you go, the real reason ive responded is the that someone mentioned mushey and long travel oem brakes?

Mushy? probably means you got air in your system?

I ran the Oem setup with proper pads and lines and fluid for over 2 seasons on track and i must say, these are really good for an OEM setup. ive never had mushy brakes and i cant breally comment on the /long/ travel, as that would depend on what your used to. I have had brake fade a few times, but thats only because of my dumb driving style and no brake cooling.

at any rate, id say the OEM setup on the M are pretty darn good. That said, there is a huge difference with swapping to a propper setup BBK. I dont think i ever out drove the OEM setup, aside from my own stupid mistakes and driving style. My current setup just allows me /more/ stupid mistakes without having to come in. (i am still learning , trying to make a few less stupid mistakes)

(the real issue with brakes on track is the pre-emergency stop pressurising the brake line when you come quickly off full throttle - thats caught me a few times)
That would be me! haha

I wouldn't say my issue is the brakes are mushy due to air in the system (though that DID also happen to me as well this year) it would be the inconsistent pedal travel. If i didn't "pre-load" the pedal, most of the time my brakes were not firm at the top of pedal engagement resulting in a long travel, thus making it more difficult to replicate braking points. I already have stainless lines, was running ATE 200, and added cooling halfway through season. I also did a brake bleed before each event, taking out ~ 0.5 liter each time.

My reference points are my '04 3.0i and the misses '17 JCW. Both have WAY better pedal feel being nice and firm from the start of engagement.

I am intrigued though about this statement:
"the pre-emergency stop pressurising the brake line when you come quickly off full throttle - thats caught me a few times"

I'm not familiar with what this quirk is, maybe we are talking about the same thing?
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      02-03-2020, 03:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnx View Post
Can someone who has the porsche calipers on confirm that spacers are needed either up front or in the back as well, and if yes which ones?

I am on 235/35/19 up front, 265/30/19 in the back. Offsets 35 front, 30 back.
Most cases I've heard from were issues on the front with regards to spoke clearance and not the rear. Although I think effective offset on the rear of our cars are typically lower than ET30 (mine is ET21 and I run the same tire size on 9.5" wheels).

For front fitment, this is a good reference chart, though it's made for the E46M (similar fitments) and specific to Apex wheels. You'll notice that for RR 911 brakes, the ARC-8 doesn't fit without a spacer but the same spec EC-7 does. It all comes down to spoke clearance.

https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc...3.51.38_PM.png
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      02-26-2020, 10:45 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F360C View Post
Just use Non-S Boxster front pads in the rear Boxster S calipers and no rust ring. Also by using this pad set up you get close to if not exact CSL brake bias % (IIRC).

All the parts needed for the conversion can be bought from RallyRoad.net minus the calipers/pads.
Just to make sure I order the right pads for the rear...

Any 2001 to 2011 Non-S Boxster (front) brake pads will work for the rear?

So any of these would work, right?

https://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-20...ng/Pads/Front/

thanks
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      02-28-2020, 10:23 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SDMCoupe View Post
Just to make sure I order the right pads for the rear...

Any 2001 to 2011 Non-S Boxster (front) brake pads will work for the rear?

So any of these would work, right?

https://www.ecstuning.com/Porsche-20...ng/Pads/Front/

thanks
Don’t know about later years, stick to the early gen
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      02-28-2020, 04:40 PM   #27
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OK. 1st gen was from 1996–2004, so i'll order based on these dates.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3002 tii View Post
Don’t know about later years, stick to the early gen
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      05-08-2020, 02:09 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnx View Post
I've had my car 13 years now and thought that it's about time to look into possible upgrades, so i pulled the trigger and bought me some used brake calipers.

I took them to a local brembo specialist to start with machining the front calipers.

He is not happy with what he saw in the pics from rallyroad.net that i had with me. He is concerned with the structural integrity.

Has anybody had any sort of issues with material degradation or anything?
I ended up not fitting the brakes on the Z4M. I needed spacers of more than 12MM for those old MORR wheels that i've had for years and I didn't want that for fear of rubbing. (My car was in for a PSS10 fitment at the time, but at the end I managed to keep the prior ride height).

So I decided to fit the Porsche brakes on my e46 M3. Since I am not in the US I did not buy from RallyRoad but I sourced the calipers from the UK and bought adapters for both front and rear from Burkart Engineering.

For pads I opted for ferodo DS2500 front and rear. I am having the following problem (other than excessive brake squeal). I get an almost constant judder/vibration/squeal from the front right brake assembly while driving which is unacceptable. It goes away when I apply the brakes (that's when the squeal kicks in).

The guy who installed the system claims that since this is not OEM, there is margin for variance with the adapters that may cause the pad to contact the rotor at an angle and that causes the judder. I told him that this mod has been going on forever both stateside and elsewhere and that I have never seen anybody mention issues like this.

I think that if there is room for error it should be with machining the calipers which was his responsibility.

Do you guys know of anybody that faced such issue and how they worked around it? Any ideas? Are the pads perhaps thicker than others ?
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      06-22-2023, 08:53 PM   #29
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Bump for those curious… confirming rear 224 M wheels easily clear the 996 Brembos without need for spacers. I’m rolling on stock diameter tire size (255/40-18) with factory suspension, other than camber washers.
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      06-23-2023, 09:18 AM   #30
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How did you fit 255/40 in front? Any rubbing of liners?
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      06-23-2023, 10:37 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amcp View Post
How did you fit 255/40 in front? Any rubbing of liners?
No rubbing, not at least on street. Track remains to be seen but I’ll know by this weekend.

Keep in mind 255 tread width for one tire can be very different from another. I’m running Michelin PSS (not 4S) on a 9” rim. To answer your question though, I pulled strut tower pin & added camber washer kit to maximize negative camber with stock suspension. Fronts are probably around -2.8*.

As much as I’d like to run 265/35, pretty sure that will rub the liners.
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      07-12-2023, 11:22 AM   #32
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For those curious, 18z w/ 362mm rotors do clear stock 18" wheels. Not mounted on the car yet so I'm not sure what size spacers is needed to clear the front wheel spokes.
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      08-03-2023, 09:25 AM   #33
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I went with the front kit from Freaky parts which are stock 4 pot calipers off of Renault Megane RS Trophy R and also Porsche rears.

https://freakyparts.co.uk/collection...-big-brake-kit

Mind you I have not tried to put the stock wheels on. I am running Apex SM-10 and these wheels have plenty of clearance.

So far so good. Stopping power is really good. No fade on track with RBF600 fluid and Hawk HP+ pads. And also the cool thing about the pads is that these calipers use a very common pad shape that is also used on STIs, Evo, even the new Civic Type R I believe so they're fairly cheap and available. The larger front pads cost less than my "porsche" rears off a non-s boxster :/

If you notice FP also offers a 360mm rotor kit which is basically same just a different bracket, however I can confirm it does not work on Z4M. The rotor hat of the 360mm E92 rotor has a different offset, it goes deeper and rotor hits the tie rod ball joint. Cannot even bolt it on. It can be done on M3 though.

Pad changes do not require you to take the calipers off which is also a benefit for quicker service. And also the pads sweep the rotor end to end, no rust ring. I did order the cheap brembo pads that come with this kit and had them on for a bit, both street and track. Conclusion: they're quiet, have quite very good stopping power for spirited street driving but on track after 4 x 20-25min sessions and more than half of pad is gone and they started making weird noises and making grooves in the rotors (it sounded like really bad resonant squeal on hard braking). In other words these are great but for street only.

And another option:

https://www.vagbremtechnic.com/front...lipers-bk0014/

Nice writeup here: https://thebuildjournal.com/reviews/...e46-m3-review/

These calipers might be slightly bigger than Brembos mentioned above however I am not 100% sure. The difference is the FP kit has 4 x 40mm pistons, and the ones off Aston Martin DB9 have 40mm and 44mm pistons. So even more piston area to work with. But these are also more expensive

Either choice is better than tried and true Porsche option in my opinion.
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Last edited by belcom; 08-04-2023 at 01:38 PM..
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