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      04-12-2024, 10:28 PM   #1
Jays.-.beemah
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Exclamation Z4 convertible

Hello you guys. I am new to this forum and I joined to ask a question that maybe one of you guys could help me solve. I just swapped in a new convertible assembly but when i finished the light in the center console is flashing red no matter what. Ive sent direct power to the latches and the motor and it opens just perfectly fine. when connected back to the cars power it just blinks red no matter what. Ive checked the switch in the back and its perfectly fine.
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      04-12-2024, 11:16 PM   #2
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Make sure the trunk shelf is actually fully down….. and jump the back bulkhead micro switch switch anyway. Make sure that the silver lever on the micro switch is actually properly positioned and functional…..
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      04-13-2024, 11:23 AM   #3
Jays.-.beemah
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Hey how would you jump it? I took it out completely already and reassmbled it so im pretty sure its all the way down. amd I know that the shelf is pressing down on it.
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      04-13-2024, 12:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jays.-.beemah View Post
Hey how would you jump it? I took it out completely already and reassmbled it so im pretty sure its all the way down. amd I know that the shelf is pressing down on it.
If you open the trunk, there are two black plastic knobs by the hinges that you can use to raise and lower that shelf to give space for the roof to lower into or create more cargo space. Make sure the shelf is in the low position - if not the roof will not open.
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      04-13-2024, 01:13 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Huz-Z View Post
If you open the trunk, there are two black plastic knobs by the hinges that you can use to raise and lower that shelf to give space for the roof to lower into or create more cargo space. Make sure the shelf is in the low position - if not the roof will not open.
Hey so the shelf is fully good in the down position with it pressing the micro switch. I checked the fuses and i know the motor and the hydraulic arms are in perfect condition with no leaks. My next idea would be it leading to the convertible module.
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      04-13-2024, 03:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jays.-.beemah View Post
Hey so the shelf is fully good in the down position with it pressing the micro switch. I checked the fuses and i know the motor and the hydraulic arms are in perfect condition with no leaks. My next idea would be it leading to the convertible module.
That sounds like a good next step to me - I hope it works!
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      04-13-2024, 06:27 PM   #7
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You jump it by shorting out the switch….. so its always “on”…. Jumper from one wire to the other. Pressing in on the switch doesn’t prove that the micro switch is actually working/functional.
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      04-13-2024, 06:59 PM   #8
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The convertible assembly you put in is actually from a salvage yard??? If so, did you take it off or did someone else??

Do you still have the old assembly???

When you put direct power to the motor the top goes up/down correct????

Once it's plugged into the car system it's just red light???

Here is step one: Pull all of the plug in's from the salvaged top, spray with Electrical contact cleaner both male/Female connectors. Now if you still have the old top look at the plugs in the old one and match them against the new top ....same amount of pin's?? no bent pin's in the new top. Using the old top look for any possibly damage to the new plugs.

Try the top again.... if nothing happens and it's red lights only.

Here's a little on how the top works:

The top in the car plugs into a white convertible controller. The convertible controller operates using 4 sensors, two of these sensors are on the front plate of the convertible top. These sensors tell the front motor to unlock the top when you push top down and to lock the top when you push top up. The other two sensors are located on the hinge lifter behind the driver (USA) model they basically are the on/off when the top goes up/down. There is one sensor on the top of the hinge lifter the other is on the side.

One or more of these sensors may have been knock off/ wire broken when the top was salvaged or when you mounted in your car. Follow the wire break out in the wire harness into the hinge lifter?? Are any of the sensors missing/lose or broken wire.
Rember you have the old top to use as a go-by to use in finding these sensors
Again, using the old top, follow the harness running to the front to find the two front sensors. Are they there, is a wire broken etc.

If any of the sensors are lose, missing, wire broken the top will not work and just flash red. The exact same as your reporting.

O/P I actually believe your issue is one of the sensors. However, you should check the plugs first just in case

Last edited by JAS1169; 04-13-2024 at 09:21 PM..
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      04-13-2024, 10:51 PM   #9
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Thank you for going into depth with this. Okay so originally I bought the whole assembly from a guy who had a hard top on so the top was basically never exposed to the weather conditions. I tested it out by sending direct power and it worked. I put it in and it was fine. It would go up and down but at an angle and I wasn't satisfied with that so I pulled it off and topped off the hydraulic oil. I then tested it again and nothing was wrong. I later assembled it and it was working just fine I ran inside to show my buddy because it was finally working, when I was showing him BAM it decided to take a poop on me and just flash the red light. i took it off from the harness and sent direct power to close it and close the latch as well. Right now it is closed for certain but when I turn the car on it is still blinking at me. I checked the wires and they seem fine like normal. i ordered the module already in hopes its that because right now that all I can think of. I am trying to avoid taking off the whole assembly again but if that's what it takes then so be it. Just wanted to get advice in case it was something simple that I overlooked. :/
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      04-14-2024, 01:32 AM   #10
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Maybe try closing the roof latch manually there's a little door you can pull off exposing the motor. turn it with the allen key. Clockwise probably closes it.
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      04-14-2024, 01:43 AM   #11
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its fully closed is the thing there is no more of the latch turning thank you though
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      04-14-2024, 07:45 AM   #12
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1st, after trying out the new module (white convertible controller) repost if that fixed your issue.

My posting was based on your original post which suggested that the top never worked after you put it in.

If the new module doesn't do anything.

"Top going down at an angle." When you installed roof did you get both sides of the U inside the clips on each side of the car?

How low was the fluid you topped off?
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      04-17-2024, 04:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAS1169 View Post
1st, after trying out the new module (white convertible controller) repost if that fixed your issue.

My posting was based on your original post which suggested that the top never worked after you put it in.

If the new module doesn't do anything.

"Top going down at an angle." When you installed roof did you get both sides of the U inside the clips on each side of the car?

How low was the fluid you topped off?
Okay so I swapped in the new module and the micro switch to it staying the same. What’s weird to me is that when it’s all the way down the windows go down and it world up until 1/3 of the way then just gives up and won’t go down or anything. :/
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      04-17-2024, 06:35 PM   #14
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Ok, you installed a new module. But, you retained the old micro switch. Is that correct?

The top will now go down .....is that correct?

However, when you push top up it stalls out about 1/3 way up and won't do anything. is that correct.

1st, when you did the top change out, did you relocate the motor to the trunk???
need that answer

2nd Please do this: Take the top down & put it up until it stalls, now WITHOUT engaging the red handle by-pass in the trunk attempt to manually push the top down. Please let me know how hard it was to do this. (if it's like a brick wall stop pushing)

3rd Please do this: Do the same thing as above but, after the top stalls engaged the hydraulic by-pass and move the top towards closing about 1 foot, now reengage the by-pass and push top close.


#2 is a hydraulic pressure test.....when you posted that you need to top off the hydraulic fluid I was a little concerned. In that, this is a sealed system.

#3 Is an electrical test for broken wires in the harness that's within the top. Basically, the top stops moving when it reaches the break and when you move it forward a little the wires reestablish contact and the top will move again.
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      04-17-2024, 07:44 PM   #15
Jays.-.beemah
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Okay so I changed out the module and the microswitch. The roof goes not go up or down with the cars power. It only goes up and down normal when I connect it to my own power source aka a jumper 1)no the motor is where it’s supposed to be. 2) the red bypass system works normal. 3) I only had to fill up the motor a little bit barely anything.4) I was thinking it was the electrical wires but once again when using my own power it goes and up and down just fine. What I was talking about was that when I put the top down manually and by using my own power source, when I connect everything back to the cars power it will raise up then give out where the roll bar is.
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      04-20-2024, 08:58 PM   #16
Jays.-.beemah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAS1169 View Post
Ok, you installed a new module. But, you retained the old micro switch. Is that correct?

The top will now go down .....is that correct?

However, when you push top up it stalls out about 1/3 way up and won't do anything. is that correct.

1st, when you did the top change out, did you relocate the motor to the trunk???
need that answer

2nd Please do this: Take the top down & put it up until it stalls, now WITHOUT engaging the red handle by-pass in the trunk attempt to manually push the top down. Please let me know how hard it was to do this. (if it's like a brick wall stop pushing)

3rd Please do this: Do the same thing as above but, after the top stalls engaged the hydraulic by-pass and move the top towards closing about 1 foot, now reengage the by-pass and push top close.


#2 is a hydraulic pressure test.....when you posted that you need to top off the hydraulic fluid I was a little concerned. In that, this is a sealed system.

#3 Is an electrical test for broken wires in the harness that's within the top. Basically, the top stops moving when it reaches the break and when you move it forward a little the wires reestablish contact and the top will move again.
So I took it to a shop and they think its the wire that goes along the roof on the driver side. what do you guys think? so you think that its something hard to fix. also does anyone know what to look out for?
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