Z4MC refresh

[grannyknot]

Originally Posted by wdb

The reason it is difficult and expensive to get more power out of the S54 is that BMW M engineers had already wrung it out pretty far. It's a jewel right from the factory. I think you should consider reaching out to pokeybritches about a tune if you want to squeeze a bit more out of it.

Oh I agree 100%, the cylinder head on this engine is a work of art, very elegant design.
I have a appointment with Josh coming up in the spring after I shake the bugs out from the rebuild.
I guess it is the law of diminishing returns, I could go turbo or supercharger but NA is good, NA is pure.

[grannyknot]

Got the engine installed a few days ago.

[grannyknot]

Almost done, turned the key today and she started first time, a bit rough and hunting idle for the first minute then it smoothed out.
No leaks! That is a first for me, there's always leaks after a rebuild.
Still have a number of weird unrelated codes I have to sort out but at the moment they are not affecting engine running.

The oil pressure sensor just barely fits with the intake air plenum, I did have to file a little notch out of the thick seam on the bottom but everything is working well.
Oil pressure, coolant temp and voltage at the push of a button or I can turn it off.
The readings aren't as bright as they look in the pic, it's a bit over exposed.

Very pleased with the Garagistic shifter, crisp and tight.

[maximumdb]

Have you considered using the APE (https://www.apeflexfuel.com) E85/Ethanol kit. It is 20% off right now and it is very easy to install. I have had good results with mine, running about e60. Just a thought, for some simple reversible performance gains. No I do not have any finantial interest, I just like the product. I just gotta say, I love how thorough your refresh of this car is. Great pictures too. This thread makes me want to go order a bunch of parts for my '07 M Roadster and get my hands dirty and knuckles busted! Thanks for posting!

[grannyknot]

Originally Posted by maximumdb

Have you considered using the APE (https://www.apeflexfuel.com) E85/Ethanol kit. It is 20% off right now and it is very easy to install. I have had good results with mine, running about e60. Just a thought, for some simple reversible performance gains. No I do not have any finantial interest, I just like the product. I just gotta say, I love how thorough your refresh of this car is. Great pictures too. This thread makes me want to go order a bunch of parts for my '07 M Roadster and get my hands dirty and knuckles busted! Thanks for posting!

Thanks, I don't believe we have true E85 gas here in Ontario but I have looked at that apeflexfuel kit.
It looks very interesting. Some of our fuel does have ethanol mixed in but I'm not sure if 15% ethanol is the same as E85.
Here are the part # for those knock off B/O mid range and tweeters.

[XMetal]

E85 is 85% ethanol. 15% ethanol would be E15

[grannyknot]

I had 99% of the car assembled and started doing a basic alignment of the wheels when I realized I had installed the rear lower control arms upside down and there is no way to remove the inner bolts for those control arms without moving the differential out of the way.

So had to remove the entire exhaust system again, the reinforcement plate, heat baffles, detach the driveshaft, unbolt the diff and lever it back to gain enough room to pull those bolts.

Since I had it all apart I thought I might as well install a pair of adjustable control arms with a wider range of camber movement just in case I need it. The SPC control arms are nicely made and I think have a better quality bushing than the OEM.

[racerbruce]

Well done grannyknot -
Your precision and acumen outweigh a few uh-oh's along the way....

[cbpip]

Just a word on the selected ARCA, the ones that attempt to be adjusted at both ends are nearly impossible to adjust correctly up by the diff. Better to have ones that are only adjustable on the wheel end. Trying to access the upper end by the diff is problematic. Check out Rouge engineering or Ground Control units.

https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...Pair_p_55.html

[grannyknot]

Originally Posted by cbpip

Just a word on the selected ARCA, the ones that attempt to be adjusted at both ends are nearly impossible to adjust correctly up by the diff. Better to have ones that are only adjustable on the wheel end. Trying to access the upper end by the diff is problematic. Check out Rouge engineering or Ground Control units.

https://www.rogueengineering.com/Rog...Pair_p_55.html

Thanks but the SPC arms have counter threads so you turn the central bar and it extends or shortens the arm equally at both ends, they're nicely machined with no slop in the threads.

[cbpip]

Problem is the jam nut up at the diff, hard to get to. Check with your indie shop that does alignments. If they have done one they'll know. Lots of Anti-seize on the threads and keep them coated. Nice build.

[grannyknot]

Originally Posted by cbpip

Problem is the jam nut up at the diff, hard to get to. Check with your indie shop that does alignments. If they have done one they'll know. Lots of Anti-seize on the threads and keep them coated. Nice build.

You are right about that, not much room up there.
I'm planning on inserting an open ended wrench or a pry bar to just hold the jam nut stationary while I tighten the central bar.
I'll have to compensate a bit doing it that way but the Tenhulzen alignment plates are surprisingly accurate for camber measurement.
It is a good all round kit for basic alignment but it only lets you adjust for total toe and not individual left/right.
Thanks for the insight.

[argenta]

Just read your whole thread, very impressive.. Wanted to do the same job on my rusty hatch but the paintshop claimed they'd brake the rear window taking it out, I just did what I reached, stupid.
On the lower control arms, I believe they are a bit dangerous as they have a history of failing on trackdays etc. See the inner joint has a shape thats clearly not made by a educated engineer, first off its weak & will flex from push force, and also will not cope with much pulling force. The std item has no such problems and the Rouge engineering alloy foot seems much stronger too.

[grannyknot]

Originally Posted by argenta

Just read your whole thread, very impressive.. Wanted to do the same job on my rusty hatch but the paintshop claimed they'd brake the rear window taking it out, I just did what I reached, stupid.

Thanks, all paint shops want to do is tape around everything, fast and cheap. You'll need to find an auto glass shop, they won't have a problem removing the hatch glass.
As you can see from the pics, that little spot of visible rust turned out to be 6x the size and had climbed well up the lip under the glass.

[grannyknot]

I got the windshield replaced and the rear glass installed today, mobile windshield service, they did a great job, took them half an hour to do both.
I prepped everything for them, glass was warm and cleaned off with alcohol, rain sensor disconnected, rear view mirror removed.

[grannyknot]

This is the rain sensor/auto dimmer before install on the windshield.

The ebay first aid box came in, I'm going to assemble a proper tool bag to go in there as insurance,

This is the first version of the oil pressure switch I installed but the intake box was just sitting on it enough to crack the cheesy aluminum, so I extended it with solid brass fittings.
Luckily when it cracked I was sitting in the drivers seat when I heard this hissing gurgling sound and turned the engine off immediately, only about 1/2 a litre of oil squirted out but what a mess all over my pristine clean engine, it took an entire day and a whole can of brake cleaner to get it presentable.

The plastic washer jets on the hood looked grey and oxidized from age and sun so hit them with the heat gun for a few seconds and let the surface get just a little molten before removing them from the heat. At least they don't draw the eye now.

[wdb]

Be careful what length screws you use to secure the underseat box. Use the shortest bolt possible. If they are too long they will prevent the thigh bolster from moving freely.

[grannyknot]

Originally Posted by wdb

Be careful what length screws you use to secure the underseat box. Use the shortest bolt possible. If they are too long they will prevent the thigh bolster from moving freely.

Just went and checked, sure enough I can't open the thigh support.
Back to the parts store.

[maupineda]

Can you guys share what fasteners you used for the first aid box?

[wdb]

Originally Posted by maupineda

Can you guys share what fasteners you used for the first aid box?

I looked on realoem but couldn't find the screw.

I don't recall the diameter but it needs to be self tapping. I found this thread which mentions a 1/4" diameter by 1/2" long self tapping screw.

https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=94739

[grannyknot]

Originally Posted by maupineda

Can you guys share what fasteners you used for the first aid box?

I found 3 SS screws in miscellaneous jar, they're .75"
1/2" or less is needed to get it to work.

[maupineda]

What diameter you say they are?

I have the bracket in my spares bin ready to go. I want to install one under either seat.