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      09-08-2018, 08:14 PM   #23
jbellis
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Z4 Roof Motor Removal Through Rear Window

I repaired my 2007 BMW Z4’s convertible top hydraulic unit by removing the entire convertible top, with the help of a great Youtube video. Others have posted that you can get to the motor by reaching it through the trunk. I tried reaching it that way and decided it was too difficult. When reinstalling the whole top, I realized that you should be able to access the pump by removing only the rear, aluminum “C-channel” that holds the rear of the top, and lifting up the rear window section. In the following video I show the procedure, although not every step (since my roof was already detached by that point).

I am pretty sure this procedure enables accessing the motor without removing the whole convertible top but I won't consider it definite until someone confirms it. Please post a comment on the Youtube page if you use this procedure successfully. Thanks!


Full notes page:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1WVV ... sp=sharing
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      09-20-2018, 01:31 PM   #24
rsutoratosu
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Wanna do mine ?
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      09-24-2018, 10:43 PM   #25
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thats sweet. good to know whenever my pump goes.
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      09-25-2018, 06:01 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
As part of my soft top refurbishment (new motor, new lift cylinders, new top, new head liner) I relocated the pump motor to the trunk. DIY instruction is attached.
Does anyone in California do this? Or going to do this soon? Maybe we can do our cars together? With some help, it can go a lot faster and safer.

Hit me up.
Bakersfield, Ca here.
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      09-27-2018, 04:19 PM   #27
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yeah, need a group repair... who wants to do it in nyc ?
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      11-09-2018, 07:10 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbellis View Post
Full notes page:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1WVV ... sp=sharing
jbellis, can you please post the link again? Unfortunately it's not showing correctly. Would be very grateful.
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      11-18-2018, 02:29 PM   #29
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I have my z4 taken apart. The u tube and instructions posted online have been great. As I put it all bact together i am wondering how everyone is running the hydraulic lines and extended electric line?
I am thinking about using a plastic container to house the pump in the trunk and using a few cable ties to attach it all to the forward wall in the trunk.
Plastic container would be a tall shoe box or something like that.
Also what about the hydraulic release.
My top stopped working due to a blown seal in the passenger hydraulic hinge. I ordered two hinges and the extended lines from top hydraulics inc.
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      02-15-2019, 07:39 PM   #30
shibby170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsutoratosu View Post
yeah, need a group repair... who wants to do it in nyc ?
Hey, you do yours yet?
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      02-21-2019, 10:45 PM   #31
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Mine is finished. I have installed the reman hinges and moved the pump into the trunk.
Overall it was not too bad. I have lost some trunk space, i do not think that is a big deal. I have noticed after building a cover for the box the pump noise is much quieter. I ordered the longer lines, after playing around a bit i think i could of stayed with the standard length lines.
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      02-28-2019, 10:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shibby170 View Post
Hey, you do yours yet?
Nope, i didn't have a garage last year.. i bought the house across the street and have a garage now.. i need to source a motor now.. a bit low in priority, with kids so driving the mdx more than this car..

i bought the hose kit end of last year.. so at least I got that.. lol
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      03-24-2019, 04:51 PM   #33
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shibby170, rsutoratosu, my motor died on me today, and I'm in the NYC area. Syosset specifically. Have a garage, willing to share. Would be cool to help each other on this! Feel free to email at karanssikka@gmail.com and we can get a group email thread going.
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      03-25-2019, 09:24 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filtercoffee View Post
shibby170, rsutoratosu, my motor died on me today, and I'm in the NYC area. Syosset specifically. Have a garage, willing to share. Would be cool to help each other on this! Feel free to email at karanssikka@gmail.com and we can get a group email thread going.

I'm probably the worse mechanics out there, I was just in the er last week, have hurt my c5-c7 disk, I'm probably not helpful and cant turn my neck as much either.

have you sourced a replacement motor yet?
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      04-07-2019, 10:42 PM   #35
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I started working on it today using Jack's method of removing the aluminum C channel, thinking it would easy. I was surprised to find that even with good instructions, it's a massive PITA any which way you do it. Mainly my weather stripping was in very tightly, and j had to pull really hard to get it out. Then, getting the c-channel out was not easy due to the aluminum clips gripping it pretty good. Then once I did all that, the motor would not come out due to it being cable tied really deep into the hole. I had to use my phone's camera with flash on, while simultaneously sticking needle nose pliers in the hole, exactly like laparoscopic surgery. Finally when you think the motor should come out, it still doesn't!!! I used my excellent camera to find that I needed to wiggle the housing in a certain way. After a lot of wiggling, the darn thing came out, but it's still attached to all it's cables and lines so you can't pull it out 100%. I used a flat head screwdriver driver to pry open the motor housing and sure enough, filled with rusty water. This took me all day with plenty of breaks.

Honestly I wonder if removing the whole roof might've been easier. But I've heard that's a major pita as well, and potentially more risky. For the first time I actually wish I paid the money to get this fixed 😂 what held me back was that I wanted to see the state of the motor to know how it broke, I wanted to see and clean the drains, and I wanted it to be relocated to the trunk, not sure if the dealership would do all that. And I hate going to the dealership, can't trust em.

Next step is going to be testing the motor to see if she'll work once dry. I'm skeptical but also hopeful. If I can't get it to work again, I'll order the replacement mustang motor, saw one on eBay. They're surprisingly hard to find, given how cheap they are.

I'm super thankful to the Z4 community for posting so many guides and videos. I'm happy to answer any questions via PM if anyone is going through the same thing and needs help.
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      04-07-2019, 10:50 PM   #36
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On the plus side, the only tool you need to the motor using the c-channel method is a 10mm socket and ratchet. I used this as an excuse to buy a comprehensive socket and ratchet set

This post claims that you can remove the motor without removing the c channel, through the trunk with shelf removed, but I don't see how it's humanly possible to locate and cut the zip tie and wiggle the motor out this way.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ving-roof-DONE
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      04-11-2019, 12:01 AM   #37
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Replaced the motor with the ford mustang motor, and it works!!! I've never been so happy. The new motor is a lot faster than stock!

One of hydraulic lines was a bit short, it just barely accommodates moving the motor to the trunk. I can see why Jack made the strain relief now. Instead of having that line do a turn at the metal outlet, I bent the metal so the line goes straight out.

The mustang motor tip was amazing. Also putting the C channel back in was easy once I removed the aluminum clips. Putting the weather stripping back in was much easier than taking it out. Thanks so, so much Jack!
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      04-14-2019, 08:56 PM   #38
rsutoratosu
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ZOMG ! how much was the mustang motor, i see the bmw motor at 650..
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      04-14-2019, 11:14 PM   #39
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Lucked out and found a used one on eBay for $170. Looked brand new compared to the corroded one which came out of my car.
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      04-17-2019, 10:24 AM   #40
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Thanks.. i found a few that says 05-2014 pump.. gonna have to look at the mustang forums to make sure they're all the same
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