Alignment issues - rear camber off after alignment

[Fen335i]

Ok, my z4m roadster recently got two new rear tires ( we chewed through the previous set very quickly), so I decided to have an Indy shop do a 4 wheel alignment. Here is what they came back with both before and after numbers:

Right rear
Camber before: -1.3
Camber after: -1.4
Toe before: .13
Toe after: .14

Left rear
Camber before: -2.1
Camber after: -2.1
Toe before: .16
Toe after: .19


Why would my right rear camber be so different than the left side? Specified oem range is -2.0 - -2.5. So left side is ok, but right side is way off. Could this be the reason for chewing through tires so quickly? Could my rear trailing arm bushings be going bad already? The car has about 50,000 miles on it.

[i2ichal2dZ4M]

looks like they didnt event attempt a camber adjustment IMO

[seank]

Originally Posted by Fen335i

Ok, my z4m roadster recently got two new rear tires ( we chewed through the previous set very quickly), so I decided to have an Indy shop do a 4 wheel alignment. Here is what they came back with both before and after numbers:

Right rear
Camber before: -1.3
Camber after: -1.4
Toe before: .13
Toe after: .14

Left rear
Camber before: -2.1
Camber after: -2.1
Toe before: .16
Toe after: .19


Why would my right rear camber be so different than the left side? Specified oem range is -2.0 - -2.5. So left side is ok, but right side is way off. Could this be the reason for chewing through tires so quickly? Could my rear trailing arm bushings be going bad already? The car has about 50,000 miles on it.

I'm confused. You paid someone to do an alignment. They didn't do an alignment and you okayed the numbers above and the work. You paid them. You then come to the forum to see what we think about your unaligned car.

To answer your question, return the car and tell them you need it aligned. Btw, you could have the camber at 1.5without issue.

[Finnegan]

Those OEM specs are way off! Maybe for a 3.0i, not for an M. Have a look here at the OEM specs via TIS (thanks to Jmillet).

Regarding why it's off so much, either: a.) the shop doesn't know what they're doing (possible, if they think those are the specs); b. ) bent suspension parts; c. frame is out of whack. A is the most likely, then b, and very last c. The -2.1 is ever so slightly beyond normally what you could expect to see, but the -1.3 is pretty far off--the most folks can get is around -1.6 to -1.7, which makes me suspect something else, unless again the shop is not up to snuff.

Toe is usually a lot more responsible for tire wear than camber, assuming camber isn't far off. But toe doesn't seem excessive. Was the side with more camber more worn? What is very quickly? 10K miles, 5k miles?

[Fen335i]

Originally Posted by seank

I'm confused. You paid someone to do an alignment. They didn't do an alignment and you okayed the numbers above and the work. You paid them. You then come to the forum to see what we think about your unaligned car.

To answer your question, return the car and tell them you need it aligned. Btw, you could have the camber at 1.5without issue.

That's as far as they could physically adjust it. That's why I'm asking.

[i2ichal2dZ4M]

Originally Posted by Fen335i

That's as far as they could physically adjust it. That's why I'm asking.

did the shop attempt to adjust camber by removing the alignment pin and shifting the show tower towards or away from the car as well? if they didn't they are able to do that, time to find an alignment shop thats familiar with BMW's. Good luck brotha!

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by i2ichal2dZ4M

did the shop attempt to adjust camber by removing the alignment pin and shifting the show tower towards or away from the car as well? if they didn't they are able to do that, time to find an alignment shop thats familiar with BMW's. Good luck brotha!

He's talking about rear camber settings, so alignment pins don't come into play (front only). OEM front is -.7 to -1.3. Alignment for rears as in OP is out of spec. Your point is well taken if we're talking front, but unfortunately it's rear where it appears there is an issue.

[i2ichal2dZ4M]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

He's talking about rear camber settings, so alignment pins don't come into play (front only). OEM front is -.8 to -1.3. Alignment for rears as in OP is out of spec. Your point is well taken if we're talking front, but unfortunately it's rear where it appears there is an issue.

lol reading it owns me..

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by i2ichal2dZ4M

lol reading it owns me..

No problem. Get me from time to time too!

[inTgr8r]

for them to only be able to get-1.4 there is definitely something wrong.
I find it hard to believe even the most incompetent shop would not understand how an eccentric adjustment bolt works, but you never know

A good shop should have checked for bushing play immediately when proper adjustment failed.
They may or may not not have done that.

That said, for the MAX neg adjustment to be so low, I would definitely check for a bent camber arm.
These things are not that strong and are in a somewhat vulnerable position.
It wouldn't take much deflection to shorten the arm and give you that kind of max number.

Has this car been transported by any chance??
It has happened before where transporters use the camber arm as a tie down.

[Fen335i]

It was transported to my place when we bought it 2 years ago...so that's a possibility.

Is there a write up somewhere on how to adjust the rear camber and toe on these m cars? I can take it back to the shop and review they went through the proper procedures and eliminate shop error.

[exdos]

Rear camber is adjusted by turning the eccentric bolt: Part 10 in the diagram below.

Rear toe is adjusted moving the bracket: Part 17 with the three retaining bolts (Collar screws): Part 19

[Fen335i]

Which one is the rear control are that someone suggested could be bent? Thx.

[inTgr8r]

Number 5

[seank]

Originally Posted by Fen335i

That's as far as they could physically adjust it. That's why I'm asking.

And they didn't say why? A competent shop would have said, "you have issues and your control arm is bent." They would not have sent you on your way with that alignment. Get them to refund your money and find a competent Independent BMW Shop that does regular alignments. Don't waste anymore hard earned money.

[Fen335i]

I paid for an unlimited number of 4-wheel alignments a couple years ago at this shop... It's a Firestone. So, this job didn't cost me anything. I agree though, I wish they would have said "why" they couldn't get it aligned any better

[Finnegan]

#5 in the diagram is the most likely to be bent, or used as a tie-down.

[Fen335i]

Any idea what one of those puppies cost?

[Krypptic]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

#5 in the diagram is the most likely to be bent, or used as a tie-down.

+1

I had an alignment, then went back to the shop two weeks later to install new pads only to be told that both mu control arms were bent. Looked as if someone tried to jack up the car with a large square lift between the rear axles.

Needles to say, when they checked the alignment that day it became way off.

I went and got the turner camber arms as a replacement. Way more solid and as a bonus you can add more camber out back.

[Finnegan]

Stock.

Turner Reinforced.

Turner Adjustable.

The first link to Realoem is really handy for these questions and diagrams.

[seank]

Originally Posted by Fen335i

Any idea what one of those puppies cost?

$100 (oem) -$250 (after market). Few hours labor. So, $340-$500 plus alignment.

It could be worse. I am just pissed off that the shop sent you on your way without explanation. Inexcusable!

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by seank

$100 (oem) -$250 (after market). Few hours labor. So, $340-$500 plus alignment.

It could be worse. I am just pissed off that the shop sent you on your way without explanation. Inexcusable!

Not that pricey, and several options. Agree about the shop--not cool that they didn't try to diagnose the problem, or ask the OP about contributing factors (shipping, etc.).