The Wheels Off / Seats Out Multi-Day Detail Has Begun

[All American 6]

Wheel Wizard said the wheel is repairable. They said it will not look pretty.

I'm attempting to locate a used wheel.

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=659112

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by All American 6

I did unplug the battery based off of what I've read here on ZPost. I referenced how to unplug the wires here too.

Since we're talking airbags, for some reason the passenger airbag is turned off at a switch on the passenger side of the dash visible when the door is open.

I guess I should wait until the battery is hooked up prior to switching the passenger airbag to on.

The switch is so you can carry young passengers, or infants in car seats using the LATCH hooks on the passenger seat, and not have to worry about injuring them if the passenger airbags deploy in an accident.

There must be some way to repair that rim without spoiling its looks altogether. I think others have had rims refurbished with nice results.

[chickdr]

That makes no sense as the crack is on the inside of the rim. You would never see the repair. I agree though- it may be easier and cheaper to just buy a new/used wheel and be done with it.

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by chickdr

That makes no sense as the crack is on the inside of the rim. You would never see the repair. I agree though- it may be easier and cheaper to just buy a new/used wheel and be done with it.

I broke one of my Style 108s in much the same spot, on the inside edge of the rim, two years ago. I bought a new one, but a local shop assures me that they can fix the broken rim for about $100 or so. I'd expect a used rim would be around $300, and you don't know how badly it may have been damaged, or how well it may have been repaired.

[All American 6]

I'm just seeing what is available out there used. I agree no one will see a patch job on the inside of the wheel.

March 8th progress:
1. Shampooed carpet
2. Cleaned interior hard surfaces
3. Applied Leaterique to leather surfaces - I now understand the rub in by hand instructions. It makes the leather more pliable. It's like giving someone a back rub.
4. Cleaned Air Filter
5. Clayed car; really didn't need it. I'm sure the small independent dealer I purchased from had buffed the car out. I did it for the experience (I've never clayed) and to see what Zaino can do.

[partlowr]

Originally Posted by kklin

Years ago I remember dishwashing soap was bad for car washing as it may contain some bleach (to get your dishes clean) so always use car wash soap. Is there something special about Dawn?

Dawn will remove any oils and greases as well as help to strip off any old wax or polish build up. You are absolutely correct about using car wash soap all other times, but when you are underkaing a detail job like this one the dawn actually helps strip everything. The OP wil not want to be anywhere near Dawn after he waxes this baby.

[Huz-Z]

we now interrupt this thread for a brief musical interlude.

Sorry, sometimes I just can't resist being silly!

[All American 6]

4 Seasons! I can't tell if Frankie is there? Sounds like he is.

Claying is done. Prior to claying I could feel some foreign objects (not much). It's baby smooth now. Made the glass look good too.

The distinction of image in the paint is pretty good right now before polishing and waxing. You can see the popcorn ceiling by the light bulb. Those two-hundred watt bulbs are my sun light.

[rsutoratosu]

Holy cow, how do you remove the seats, I wanna do that !!! i love leatherique

-edit-
never mind, i found it.. ill be doing mine soon too

[chickdr]

It is interesting to me your car has extended leather(a rare and expensive option) but no premium package(as the seats are manual). I would think someone who wanted leather everywhere would have wanted power options as well.

Nice work!

[All American 6]

Originally Posted by chickdr

It is interesting to me your car has extended leather(a rare and expensive option) but no premium package(as the seats are manual). I would think someone who wanted leather everywhere would have wanted power options as well.

Nice work!

I agree, but I would not want to trade the leather or M seats for the preimum package.

I guess they were at the end of what they wanted to spend.





Premium Pkg -Inc: Auto-Dimming Rearview Mirror, Auto-Dimming Exterior Mirrors, 8-Way Pwr Front Seats W/3-Position Driver Seat Memory, Seatback Storage Nets, Passenger-Side Tunnel Net, Bi-Xenon Headlights W/Auto-Leveling, Bmw Assist W/4-Year Subscription, Bluetooth W/High-Capacity Phonebook Download
$2,140.00
$2,350.00

[drew935]

It also saves some weight not having motors in the seats So it is a plus in some way

[rsutoratosu]

is it harder to remove seats with motor ? i got motors

[drew935]

No, it's just heavier when removing and adds more curb weight to the car. That's all.

[rsutoratosu]

can't wait, right now i'm doing brake swap on my acura.. as soon as that is out of the garage, im gonna pull my seats out and clean it with leatherique and wash the carpets...

[chickdr]

Originally Posted by All American 6

I agree, but I would not want to trade the leather or M seats for the preimum package.

I guess they were at the end of what they wanted to spend.





Premium Pkg -Inc: Auto-Dimming Rearview Mirror, Auto-Dimming Exterior Mirrors, 8-Way Pwr Front Seats W/3-Position Driver Seat Memory, Seatback Storage Nets, Passenger-Side Tunnel Net, Bi-Xenon Headlights W/Auto-Leveling, Bmw Assist W/4-Year Subscription, Bluetooth W/High-Capacity Phonebook Download
$2,140.00
$2,350.00

It also includes the top end sound system(THX) so overall it seems like a good deal to me. You still have leather seats even without the extended leather option too. Agreed on the M seats. They are awesome.

[All American 6]

March 9th Update:

Clean the all the leather with Prestine Clean. Great product.

Some jack a$$ sprayed the driver's seat with some type of paint. The Prestine Clean removed it (with lots of elbow grease and bristled brush). It took me a few hours to remove it all. I'm kind of mad at myself for not noticing it sooner.

Once the paint was removed, I re-applied the Rejuvinator Oil (2 ozs per seat).


I'm not sure if I'll leave it, dye it, or reupholster?

[l4zy]

Originally Posted by mousitch

Thanks. I'm having a problem with the wheels reacting to the hubs and sticking. Tried a little grease. No help. Maybe this help. When you say rotors, what part did you paint?

Anti-Seize should fix your problem.

"Once you have completed your test fit, we suggest removing the wheel and applying a thin coating of anti-seize around the axle hubs to help prevent rust and permit easier removal when it's time to rotate your tires. Do not apply anti-seize compound to the lug hardware or studs." -Tirerack.com

[All American 6]

Looks like Leatherique Dye will be the answer to my seat problem.

Anyone here done a re-dye with Leatherique products?

Their web site has lots of info on the process.

[kklin]

Originally Posted by l4zy

Anti-Seize should fix your problem.

"Once you have completed your test fit, we suggest removing the wheel and applying a thin coating of anti-seize around the axle hubs to help prevent rust and permit easier removal when it's time to rotate your tires. Do not apply anti-seize compound to the lug hardware or studs." -Tirerack.com

Interesting TireRack quote above. Here's another quote from Vorshlag ...

Obviously the red threadlocker is used to bond the screw in wheel stud to the wheel hubs - just a drop is needed on the shorter "hub side" of your wheel studs. Once cured it will keep the stud from backing out when you are removing lug nuts at the track. Sometimes heat is needed to help break the bond when removing a wheel stud from an old wheel hub (a torch is helpful). The anti-seize is used on the "lug nut side" of your wheel studs. Again, a drop every few months applied to the outer section of threads will keep the lugs going on and off the wheel studs nicely as well as providing the proper torque specifications without any added "sticktion".

[aerobod]

Originally Posted by kklin

Interesting TireRack quote above. Here's another quote from Vorshlag ...

The anti-seize is used on the "lug nut side" of your wheel studs. Again, a drop every few months applied to the outer section of threads will keep the lugs going on and off the wheel studs nicely as well as providing the proper torque specifications without any added "sticktion".

The problem with anti-seize is that there are so many types that have different properties, the friction coefficient can change by a factor between about 1.3 and 2.0, depending on the compound. This means the torque has to modified depending on the anti-seize, to achieve a given clamping load. A dry clean thread will give a more consistent result if you don't know the friction properties of the anti-seize compound.

[kklin]

Originally Posted by aerobod

The problem with anti-seize is that there are so many types that have different properties, the friction coefficient can change by a factor between about 1.3 and 2.0, depending on the compound. This means the torque has to modified depending on the anti-seize, to achieve a given clamping load. A dry clean thread will give a more consistent result if you don't know the friction properties of the anti-seize compound.

Thanks for pointing out the existence different formulations. The variety that Vorshlag packages points to these characteristics which has this passage ...

An anti-seize lubricant used on a bolt helps to develop greater clamp load for the same torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. An additional benefit is greater uniformity in clamp load among a series of bolts.

Thanks again for pointing out there are differences.