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      02-06-2011, 12:19 PM   #1
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Autosolutions SSK install Z4M

8/6/18 update. My photos for this got screwed up by Photobucket, and then again by me in my Flickr account. Got everything back in here AGAIN, hopefully for the last time. Shifter is just as good now as it was back in 2011 when I did this install, no development of slop or tightness, still at the very top of my list for the best mods done to my M coupe. I can't say how it compares to other shifters but what I can say is that I really don't ever wish for something else or for it to be any different. If given the chance, this is a must-do mod IMHO. Hope this helps future installs.

I will say that I did this job about a year before we had kids. If I had to do it now, there would be a lot less photos, and it would have taken me a lot longer to do. Before kids, man, I had a lot of time on my hands!!

Finally got around to getting it in the car. There are a lot of great DIYs for shifter installs out there. I found these links to be very helpful:

http://www.madrussian.net/m3/diy_as_ssk.shtml
http://billswebspace.com/bmwmc.htm

I’m not trying to reinvent the entire wheel here. I think I found a few things during my install that may get glossed over or could make it easier. I did mine at home on jack stands. I got the car high up so there was plenty of room to work around/under it.

First, raise car and remove exhaust. Roll front end up on some ramps - just ~4-5 inches needed. Rear center jack point - where the tension struts come together is a very solid jacking point. I cut the leading edge of the plastic diffuser piece to help locate the jack head. Raise the back end enough to get jack stands under the two rear side lift points. With the rear of the car on jack stands and stable, go to the front and raise the car from the center jack point. Place jack stands under the two front side lift points. I made spacers for the jack stands out of wood. Then I just alternated front to back raising the car incrementally. I ended up with about 20 inches clear space to work under the car.













Some part of the exhaust has to come down for this job. It’s best to drop the small aluminum shield that bolts to the front stress plate for better access to the top bolts on the header flanges. After first trying to get Section 1 down by itself, I would say the easiest thing is to just drop section 1 and the x-pipe as one unit. Where section 1 joins the x-pipe, the two bolts on top are really hidden – I ended up making a specialized wrench to get them loose – cut the box end off a 13 mm end wrench and then had to put a bend in it to fit it in the available space to hold the nut. I eventually got it loose and separated section 1 from the x-pipe but I still had to drop the x-pipe in order to get section 1 out. Bottom line – easier to deal with it as one piece.









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      02-06-2011, 12:19 PM   #2
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Now you can see the guts of this job – the shifter carrier, selector rod, shifter arm, rear carrier bushing, and front carrier bushings with pins and clips. It’s all above the drive line. I loosened the two bolts that hold the center bearing in the drive line – it doesn’t result in much ability to move the driveline but enough to help – these bolts are 21 Nm torque for tightening.

View from passenger side, rear carrier bushing


Passenger side front carrier bushing


Driver side, selector rod w/ rear bushing


Driver side, selector rod and front bushing clip


Interior. Pull boot first – I grabbed rear corners and lifted, snapped right off. Unplug small white connector for knob illumination. Put shifter in 4th or 6th and jerk up on knob (don’t hit yourself in the head). Knob in my car came off with moderate force. I decided to pull the trim ring – it snaps on with simple clips. Lift at front edge first. Disconnect black connector for door lock and hazard switches. Lift out foam piece to see the rubber boot. There is more than meets the eye about the boot in regard to reinstalling it (covered later). It can be pulled through to the inside of the car and then has to be pulled off the shift lever – this is where it will be on pretty tight.





Just to show bottom flange on boot, it's a lot to pull through:




This shows how the boot conforms to the bottom of the upper part of the shifter - tough to get off, don't tear it.




Removing the shifter, carrier. From underneath, unclip selector rod from shift arm – simple, snap clip pushes off. Selector rod can hang down to drivers side of drive line. In the AS instructions, they recommend replacing the rear carrier bushing – I didn’t figure mine was worn too much, but bought a replacement anyway (inexpensive part).





NEW TECHNIQUE: Everywhere you read to remove the shifter from the carrier – Ronald even supplied the special tool for this. Unnecessary. Here’s what I did. Front of the carrier is loosened no different – lift the two clips and the pins slide out.



The rear carrier bushing is held in a steel sleeve. The sleeve has two slots, one on each side and it just snaps in place. I had to make a tool to get it out – the only down side to this procedure. I had the end of a screw driver laying around, I shaped the end with the dremmel and bent it slightly. Basically, with the right tool, you slide the tip up into one of the slots in the clip holding the bushing and it will pry right out. The entire carrier with shifter and rear bushing still attached can then come out as one unit.











The two "fabbed" tools - not really, more like modified. Wrench for top bolts on section 1 to x-pipe flanges, pry for rear bushing on shifter carrier.
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      02-06-2011, 12:20 PM   #3
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Once you have the shifter assembly out, may as well get through the absolute worst part of this job. There is this little front coupler – I like to refer to it as the spawn of satan himself. It’s probably best to lay with your head to the front of the car and feet to the rear, allows you to reach up along each side of the drive line to get to it. The forward coupler, which connects the selector rod to trans, is totally hidden and can only be removed/replaced by feel. The coupler has this little circlip ring that is meant to drive you to insanity. The circlip ring has to be removed to push the pin through. I finally got the circlip off and then could not get the dang pin out to remove the factory coupler. I think I finally worked an allen wrench up in there and used a small piece of wood to pry and force the pin out. Putting the AS coupler in is no fun either. The coupler has this little piece of foam in it – it’s supposed to be there by the way. I reused the factory foam piece, trimmed maybe 0.5 – 1 mm off of it, and was able to somehow get it on, pin pushed through, and circlip on. The forward coupler will be a major hurdle for any DIYers with this job. What a milestone when you finally are done with it!!! No pics cause you can't seen it anyway. Maybe the attached PDFs will help visualize the issue.

The new front bushings go in best after being sprayed with a little WD40. Make sure the flange is all the way out on the inside and oustide, shoud be even.






The rear end of the carrier had some rather rough ridges on it - I filed them down to make it nice and smooth. Didn't take much, you're just knocking down a slight casting line. Can't hurt to remove them, ridges like this will chew up a bushing over time. I wiped it down with alcohol to de-grease it and then applied two layers of 1/2" heat shrink tubing - Ronald's tip from the instructions. Figured heat shrink might be better than electrical tape. If it comes out, it will just fall on the heat shield - pretty harmless and if it works, great.











I decided to unclip the spring clip in the shifter cup to prove the point that the cup can’t come off the shifter. Ronald must have assembled the shifter cup before adding on the upper part of the shift lever. On reassembly, I greased this up with some synthetic all purpose grease. Use blue loctitie on the bolts that hold the shifter cup to the carrier. No torque settings available here, just keep in mind you are threading a stainless steel screw into an aluminum carrier and too much torque will destroy the threads in the carrier.













I spent a lot of time assembling the new shifter/carrier assembly on the bench before putting it in the car. One thing I didn’t like was that the supplied plastic bushings were too thick and I kept getting this little gap between the bushing and the sector rod. See pics.

It occurred to me that on the factory coupler, the plastic bushing is slightly chamfered. This is to accommodate a slight curve at the base of the pins on the selector rod – where the pin meets the flat face on the selector rod, it’s not a perfect 90 degree angle. You can see in the on pic there is a clear gap between the plastic bushing and the selector rod – and this is with me applying lots of pressure to push the pieces together. I chamfered the bushings I used to get zero gap. I reused the factory selector rod clips because they are not flat, like the supplied clips, but have a slight spring to them. I’m talking about the flat part that slides into the slot on the rod pin – it is slightly bent to provide some pressure on the shifter coupler or the trans coupler in addition to clipping on the rod. I didn’t get any pics of this, you’ll have to compare them for yourself.

Factory coupler, chamfered bushing


Factory shifter, chamfered bushing


Factory and AS coupler, AS no chamfer - needs bushing between it and the selector rod....


...because the base of the pin on the selector rod has this little flare to it - why the OE bushings are chamfered....and why a lot of these shifters feel overly tight...


Interference from AS bushing with no chamfer - gap and binding, tight motion


Chamfered AS bushing, no gap, not too tight - just right


Chamfered next to not, AS pieces - details, details.....






Attached Images
File Type: pdf RA Replacing shift rod.pdf (186.7 KB, 516 views)
File Type: pdf RA Replacing shift rod joint.pdf (130.1 KB, 462 views)
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      02-06-2011, 12:21 PM   #4
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The carrier with shifter and rear bushing installed goes back in separate from the selector rod. Before putting carrier with shifter back in, connect front end of selector rod to the spawn of satan coupler. Simple enough – slide in the pin from the drivers side and clip. The entire carrier, rear bushing, and shifter will go back into the car as one piece. It took some minor finagling and patience, but went right back in. Doing it this way allows you to assemble the shifter in the carrier on the bench to make sure its all correct.

Connect up the front end of the carrier first – slide pins in on each side and clip to trans. Rear bushing – push up, snaps in place. Visually double check on each side that the slot has engaged the tabs on the bushing mounts. Finally clip the selector rod onto the shifter – again, had one bushing between the rod and the shifter arm. CHAMFER goes TOWARD the SELECTOR rod - flat side towards the shifter arm or front coupler. The selector rod has a bend in it – the bent end is the front end and the convex side of the bend goes down (should be self explanatory from disassembly).









Topside for the boot. I stuck the boot in hot, soapy water to soften it up and make it slicker. You’d think putting the boot back on would be simple, there are just details to be aware of. It has an arrow on it that points to the front of the car. The upper part that goes around the shift lever has a ridge inside that is supposed to sit at the bottom edge of the upper part of the shift arm. I shoved the boot onto the shift lever first. Then, by feel, pushing down from the topside, you can feel the thick part of the boot that is supposed to go around the carrier – you have to push and hold as you work your way around to get this part around the carrier. I think it’s important to keep grime from getting into the top side of the shift lever bearing. Reinstall trim ring, electrical connections, foam bit, and shift knob.



You can see the inner ridge - this has to end up below the upper part of the shift lever


You can see the thick lip with the two wings - this has to end up over the top of the carrier







Note here from the bottom, the wide part of the flange is fully through but you can still see the top of the carrier where the shift lever is in the carrier


I grabbed one wing with needle nose pliers to try and show how this part comes out and should be over the top rim of the carrier


The way it should be when done. Believe me when I say it's easier to push it down from the top than to try and grab the wings of it and pull it down from the bottom






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      02-06-2011, 12:21 PM   #5
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Back underneath. Replace heat shield first – don’t want to forget this. I bungied up the cans to make room for getting the exhaust back in. I reassembled section 1 to the x-pipe and put it all back as one piece. On the headers, probably should just use new gasket rings here. Mine came apart in pieces. You’ll want to be sure to clean all remaining pieces of gasket off the headers and section 1 before putting new ones back on. Also, tighten the side with the welded on clamp first. Then tighten the side with the loose clamp.

The procedure for me was slide the sect 1/x-pipe assembly under the car. Get one side of the x-pipe on top of the tension strut that was not removed. Then replace the tension strut that was removed so that the x-pipe is supported on both sides. Then I moved to the front with my head forward, legs toward the back, and muscled section 1 up and onto the headers. Then go back to the rear stress plate and reattach it (torque specs outlined elsewhere). Connect headers first (they are only 15 Nm, a 3/8” socket on the reverse torx bolts worked fine for me) and cans last. And that is about it.












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      02-06-2011, 04:41 PM   #6
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Great pics! Thanks!!
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      02-06-2011, 04:51 PM   #7
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Nice writeup
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      02-07-2011, 03:55 AM   #8
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very detailed. nice work. will use this if i ever decide to get a short shifter
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      02-07-2011, 04:29 AM   #9
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dude....why wait?
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      02-07-2011, 04:30 AM   #10
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ronald makes like on a few at a time.....u shouldnt wait
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      02-07-2011, 09:39 AM   #11
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Just not convinced that i really need a short shifter for this car
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      02-07-2011, 10:12 AM   #12
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Thanks for the comments guys.

The AS shifter is not primarily about reducing the throw or height of the shifter, it's really about removing the slop in the factory shifter. I don't think this kit resulted in much reduction in throw at all - sure, a bit with the shorter shifter rod length from the bearing up (~ 1/2" shorter, knob will be ~1/2" loewer), but if you look at the pics of the shift lever from the bearing down to the selector rod, it's nearly identical, if not identical. This is the part that if changed can really affect throw, or make it a "short shifter" and clearly, Ronald didn't make a big change here. But, the real beauty of this kit is that the thing becomes super precise - like telepathic shifting. I think there are some minor details in the installation that can make it smoother and not too tight, or hard to shift, but keep all the precision in place.

There are generally two approaches to wanting to change the shifter - make the throws shorter, like a "short shifter" in the traditional sense, or make the shifter more precise. If you have any desire to fix the precision part of it, you must consider the Autosolutions kit. I tend to agree that this car doesn't need a "short shifter" for reducing throw length, but could seriously be helped with making the thing more precise. The E46 M3 benefits from both reducing throw length and correcting the slop, that is probably why the AS kits for E46 M3 have more throw reduction (from 20-40%), just as an FYI for comparison.
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      02-07-2011, 11:01 AM   #13
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Awesome write up and install.

Great catch on the chamfer.
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      02-07-2011, 11:12 AM   #14
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Great install, that is some crazy attention to detail. I really like the idea of removing the rear bushing at the same time to be able to remove everything as one piece, very smart idea.

May I ask how you chamfered the washers? That may be why mine is so tight?
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      02-07-2011, 01:22 PM   #15
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Pretty simple really, I used a brand new sharp utility knife blade and carefully removed the material at roughly a 45-degree angle to the surface of the bushing. Because the plastic material is so hard, it worked pretty well. You are just trying to make a slight relief so that it doesn't bind against the base of the pin on the selector rod. Also because the plastic is so hard, and the tolerance to the pin is good (very little play in the bushing when slid onto the pin), it definitely could bind at the base of the pin and make it feel really tight. I think that it would take quite a while for this to wear enough to loosen up, and it might not really wear or change much because the plastic is so hard.
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      02-07-2011, 01:59 PM   #16
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Wow! Nice write up. Now I have no excuse for putting this install off any longer. So parts recommended:
- Rear carrier bushing
- Heat shrink tubing
- Exhaust gaskets
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      02-07-2011, 02:25 PM   #17
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Yeah, and technically speaking, the 4 higher torque bolts for the rear stress plate also, should you have to drop the x-pipe. TIS states that they should be replaced - same for the front stress plate. Probably because they are a specifically torqued bolt (59 Nm + 90-degrees rotation).

I'm nearly certain it's
Hexagon screw with flange M10X35-10.9ZNS3 31106772199 $1.61

from RealOEM.com - 6 needed.

I reused the gaskets between section 1 and the x-pipe - they looked great and I marked them so I put them back exactly the way they came out. If you drop section 1 and x-pipe as one unit, then you wouldn't need these anyway no matter what.

Have Fun!
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      02-07-2011, 09:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onebluemcm View Post
Thanks for the comments guys.

The AS shifter is not primarily about reducing the throw or height of the shifter, it's really about removing the slop in the factory shifter. I don't think this kit resulted in much reduction in throw at all - sure, a bit with the shorter shifter rod length from the bearing up (~ 1/2" shorter, knob will be ~1/2" loewer), but if you look at the pics of the shift lever from the bearing down to the selector rod, it's nearly identical, if not identical. This is the part that if changed can really affect throw, or make it a "short shifter" and clearly, Ronald didn't make a big change here. But, the real beauty of this kit is that the thing becomes super precise - like telepathic shifting. I think there are some minor details in the installation that can make it smoother and not too tight, or hard to shift, but keep all the precision in place.

There are generally two approaches to wanting to change the shifter - make the throws shorter, like a "short shifter" in the traditional sense, or make the shifter more precise. If you have any desire to fix the precision part of it, you must consider the Autosolutions kit. I tend to agree that this car doesn't need a "short shifter" for reducing throw length, but could seriously be helped with making the thing more precise. The E46 M3 benefits from both reducing throw length and correcting the slop, that is probably why the AS kits for E46 M3 have more throw reduction (from 20-40%), just as an FYI for comparison.
This is exactly what I wanted when I was going through prototype with Ronald. I told Ronald I track a few times a year so he took that into account. The reason it was bit shorter throw was for the fifth gear. I thought it was a bit too far going from 4th to 5th. Of course, the shifting needs a bit more effort. The precision was my main focus becasue I don't want to worry about which gear I am going into when on the track.

I am very happy with my AS SSK. It is the smoothest SSK out there.
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      02-08-2011, 02:03 AM   #19
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Great write up and install.
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      02-08-2011, 02:12 AM   #20
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Now THAT'S a write-up! Well done Oneblue.

I'm happy with my current shifter feel (but trying to source an illuminated ZHP knob to complete what I have in mind). However if I ever go this route, I'll know where to turn. Thx for the diligence.
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      02-08-2011, 02:14 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onebluemcm View Post
Thanks for the comments guys.

The AS shifter is not primarily about reducing the throw or height of the shifter, it's really about removing the slop in the factory shifter. I don't think this kit resulted in much reduction in throw at all - sure, a bit with the shorter shifter rod length from the bearing up (~ 1/2" shorter, knob will be ~1/2" loewer), but if you look at the pics of the shift lever from the bearing down to the selector rod, it's nearly identical, if not identical. This is the part that if changed can really affect throw, or make it a "short shifter" and clearly, Ronald didn't make a big change here. But, the real beauty of this kit is that the thing becomes super precise - like telepathic shifting. I think there are some minor details in the installation that can make it smoother and not too tight, or hard to shift, but keep all the precision in place.

There are generally two approaches to wanting to change the shifter - make the throws shorter, like a "short shifter" in the traditional sense, or make the shifter more precise. If you have any desire to fix the precision part of it, you must consider the Autosolutions kit. I tend to agree that this car doesn't need a "short shifter" for reducing throw length, but could seriously be helped with making the thing more precise. The E46 M3 benefits from both reducing throw length and correcting the slop, that is probably why the AS kits for E46 M3 have more throw reduction (from 20-40%), just as an FYI for comparison.
interesting, thanks for the info. maybe i will look into buying this the next time the GB comes along
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      03-14-2011, 11:42 AM   #22
inTgr8r
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Awesome write up, can't wait to get mine installed.
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