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09-21-2010, 03:42 PM | #1 |
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Door lock problem
My drivers door does not want to unlock with the key button or the center console button, but will lock with both. I can hear the mechanism working, but the little button does not come up. It will work fine using the key in the door or inside door handle. Any ideas?
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10-07-2010, 09:17 PM | #2 | |
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Quote:
actuator makes a sound but does not succed at lifting the lock |
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10-09-2010, 11:09 AM | #5 |
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this is a known issue
I think there is a TSB on it.
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10-10-2010, 05:36 PM | #7 |
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06-28-2011, 07:02 PM | #8 |
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i have a similar problem. When I unlock/lock the button pops up super slow, like its struggling. In contrast,the passenger side pops up quick. Sometimes I have to pull the door unlock latch hard when exiting from the driver seat.
One time I went to close the door and it refused. I think the latch was in the closed position when it should have been in the open position. Is this a sign of a bad door lock acuator? Is this the right part? http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0 I have read changing the lock actuator is not a DIY project because you need a special "BOWMAN" tool? Any updates on this TSB? |
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08-28-2011, 01:57 PM | #10 |
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Hi all, my drivers side door will not open!!!! The pin goes up and down when i lock/unlock it but the door will not open...anyone has any ideas what it might be? |Thanks!
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08-28-2011, 07:00 PM | #11 |
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Door lock actuator ... had similar issue on my E46. Horribly expensive part and such a pain in the a$$ to fix yourself. My issue was opening the door from the outside. I could from inside but not out. Sometimes I would press the unlock button and nothing happened. After I had BMW fix it (replace it) and it worked fine.
Check fuses as well. |
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08-29-2011, 08:53 AM | #13 |
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BMW reused my actuator but just lubed it and tinkered with it. They did however replace the entrie cable and inside door part since that was not tight enough to unlock from outside. I think the total cost was around $400. If I wanted to include the actuator it jumped to like $1,000. After that it worked fine, I sold the car so no idea if it is still working.
I got quotes from a bunch of indy shops to do it but none could or wanted to try. Something to do with the electronics and programing the car they claimed. I think they just didn't want to take the time to do it. |
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11-15-2011, 11:59 AM | #14 |
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Had the same issue with the drivers door. The actuator was replaced and the problem persisted. Since I've only had the car for less then a little over a month Bmw fixed it but wouldn't let me see the invoice since the dealer was paying fo r it. Now everything works fine but the door rattles now when going over bumpy roads. Ugh.......
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01-27-2012, 09:50 PM | #15 |
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Sorry for the off topic but I have a 2006 3.0si coupe and would like to know if I can make my doors lock automatically seconds after I close all doors? Instead of having to click the lock doors button near the shifter. Anyone know if there is a way to do this?
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01-27-2012, 11:18 PM | #16 |
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Bit of a thread jack but I believe the doors can be programmed to lock with speed, but not while sitting in the car not moving.
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04-20-2012, 07:48 AM | #17 |
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I had a similar problem. The lock knob would come up but the door wouldn't open. I took the panel off and found the exterior door handle has a cable from the handle to the latch. When the window comes down it pushes this cable down and prevents the door from unlocked. I pushed the cable up and duct taped it to the backside of the handle. I couldn't get the exterior handle off but I would've rather zip tied it to the backside of the handle. Since I've taped it it's working great. Not sure if you have the same problem but I hope this helps.
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04-20-2012, 12:16 PM | #18 |
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I find that things like this are often, not always, but often solved by actually looking at the problem.
We've all heard the "...we have to replace 90% of your car because the x-part doesn't work..." argument from dealerships (especially). It's convenient for the dealer, generates revenue, but it is rarely the only solution. There are very few problems with moving parts that cannot be fixed by repositioning a component a little and providing some lubrication. Sometimes you can even fabricate a worn plastic part with JB-Weld. Sometimes there's a fix with reprogramming (as in the fix for windows that only come part way up etc.). As a last resort, there's always eBay for cheap used parts. It's going inside the door. It doesn't have to be shiny. If something works sometimes then it has a high probability of working all the time with a little care and attention. If an owner simply keeps forcing something to work it will, more often than not, give up and break. Of course, I have learned this the hard way. $0.02 PS : Ron Stygar's posts are brilliant for this sort of thing. Look him up. Ron_at_unofficialbmw.com Last edited by EenyBear; 04-20-2012 at 12:52 PM.. |
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05-14-2012, 05:58 PM | #19 |
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Update: my door wouldn't open today. I pulled the panel off and my tape had come unhoooked. I zip tied it (with the help of my son's smaller hands) to the back of the handle and it works again. If you're having this problem, check the cable from exterior handle to the latch. The widow pushes it down and won't let the door open.
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08-25-2012, 02:08 PM | #20 |
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I found out part of my problem was that I was double pressing the unlock button too fast.
Apparently you have to press wait press and it unlocks the passenger door. pretty dumb of me but I was used to other cars where a quick double tap is required. |
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08-26-2012, 06:49 PM | #21 | |
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[QUOTE=rkstar9]
Quote:
Good luck
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06-26-2016, 06:25 PM | #22 |
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Door vs. Console
2003 E85 Z4
Check your console...I know it sounds strange. My passenger door randomly or very slowly unlocks, it struggles, or the plunger barely raises. It always appears as if the plunger is getting caught in the sleeve and can't easily rise. This isn't the issue. Well, this week, with the top down, in scorching heat, she wouldn't rise at all. Plus, I couldn't get into the console. I opened the console using the string that goes to the trunk. Upon further review, you can tell all these over-engineered pieces of plastic that look like a mouse trap are forced to lock the console and prevent the top from being opened when parked. Too much going on. It makes a Briggs & Stratton governor look like child's play. All that plastic binds in heat. I sanded some areas that looked like they were rubbing and lubed the mechanism which likely gets dusty from the open air driving. I also made sure the top of the console is retained to the rear or else the top release button scrapes as you depress the button. Of course, previous maintenance had broke some of the clips so that needed securing. My impression is that any sort of resistance soaks up all the juice and the passenger door is the last in line or later than the driver door and console. It's embarrassing when double pressing, in sequence, the key fob and only the driver door opens. The fix above didn't even touch the passenger door but now it (passenger door) unlocks every time. Key FOB action: First press = drivers door, Second press = console and passengers door. Also, 5 years ago, when I bought the car, I wanted the console lock to work, so I replaced the actuator. Additionally, the console would open with the center console button when the car was locked but top down, so there is a TSP where they fix that for free. |
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