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      10-31-2019, 05:38 PM   #23
dre99gsx
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I'll be using this post as reference, thanks Afrim!
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      08-12-2020, 06:20 PM   #24
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I love this setup and tried ordering it this week. Wiechers quoted me 1400 euro just to ship it to the Boston area. Did you have to setup your own shipping with them?
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      08-12-2020, 06:59 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by MCouper View Post
I love this setup and tried ordering it this week. Wiechers quoted me 1400 euro just to ship it to the Boston area. Did you have to setup your own shipping with them?
I wonder if COVID has made an impact on international freight? My total with shipping was under $1,000 Eur at the time.
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      08-12-2020, 08:45 PM   #26
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I just finished the install on mine. Fairly easy to do. I did need a 90deg Dewalt drill adapter to drill the three holes for the rear bars. Also, when drilling the rear, if you still have the finder liners and liner material sandwhiched between, enjoy some anguish as that stuff makes it hard to drill through.

Also, you'll have to shift the passenger side battery cable guide over to allow room to mount the main hoop floor bracket.

I paid $1200 US shipped last year, took 8 full weeks to receive in NJ.
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      08-12-2020, 09:38 PM   #27
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Anyone know if this works with OEM seats? Also I'm in the Boston Area as well... group buy maybe
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      08-13-2020, 12:32 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azeka1 View Post
I wonder if COVID has made an impact on international freight? My total with shipping was under $1,000 Eur at the time.

Yeah you can say that, fedex was charging up to 3 times to pre-covid, though has come down a lot in the last month. DHL still pretty steep right now.
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      08-13-2020, 01:27 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azeka1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MCouper View Post
I love this setup and tried ordering it this week. Wiechers quoted me 1400 euro just to ship it to the Boston area. Did you have to setup your own shipping with them?
I wonder if COVID has made an impact on international freight? My total with shipping was under $1,000 Eur at the time.
Shipping is slow and crazy steep right now after COVID. I've upgraded everyone to FedEx Express because others keeps delaying and damage packages..

Custom is slow, shipping rate gone up. Most understand that this will be the new normal.
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      08-13-2020, 08:57 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJW2OO4 View Post
Anyone know if this works with OEM seats? Also I'm in the Boston Area as well... group buy maybe
I actually reached out to Turner Motorsports to see if I could get it through them since they are a Wiechers distributor. I figure might be able to drive up to Amesbury and pick it up. I'll let you know how it turns out. I looked up shipping through FedEx economy and it was 412 euros. Wiechers said they would be willing to do that but communication with them is really slow and inconsistent due to the language barrier.
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      08-18-2020, 01:45 PM   #31
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Afrim - the other images showing bracket locations and fender holes you linked are gone.

Here are some from my install. Note the special Dewalt tool I used to drill the rear holes
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      11-23-2020, 01:11 PM   #32
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How much do these intrude on seat travel aft? I'm 6'1" and my stock seats are up against the bulkhead. I understand I'll gain headroom once I add racing seats, but want to check on how much leg room I'll be sacrificing.
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      11-27-2020, 09:41 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAL2GK View Post
How much do these intrude on seat travel aft? I'm 6'1" and my stock seats are up against the bulkhead. I understand I'll gain headroom once I add racing seats, but want to check on how much leg room I'll be sacrificing.
I am 6'2 and I fit.. depending on what seat mounts/sliders/side mounts you have you might have to do some trimming to get the necessary space you need.
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      12-31-2020, 10:55 PM   #34
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Well, I ended up ordering the roll-cage directly from Wiechers. It took about 2 months for them to fabricate and ship it. For whatever reason they needed a business address to ship it to so I had them send it to my father-in-laws business. Since Fed-Ex tried to deliver it when it was closed, I ended up driving to Logan Airport to pick it up. The shipping box was hilariously huge - about 33% of the box was empty space but the roll cage itself was well padded with tape and bubble-wrap.

The install took me about a full day, but that included changing the center console trim (went from wood to carbon leather) and a trip to Lowes for a Dewalt drill bit.

I spent another day installing a set of Cobra Nogaro seats, which required wiring for the power functions. If anyone needs info/help on doing the seat installs or the wiring I'd be more than happy to help.

Azeka1's pictures and info were super-helpful. Many thanks!





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      01-01-2021, 10:35 AM   #35
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Please pix of the Nogaro install. My research indicates that these, next to a set of Tillet seats are almost perfect fit in terms of sizing.
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      01-02-2021, 07:25 PM   #36
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Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the seat install but it was very straight-forward. The only complicated part was wiring the seat harness to work with the horizontal power functions. If you're installing the manual slider, then it's probably way easier.

Space-wise, the seats are a bit smaller than the OEM M seats but still fill out the cabin pretty well. I'm 5"7' and have about 8-10 inches of space between the back of the seat and the back panel. For my own personal ergonomics, the seating position is an inch or two lower, which takes a little getting used to and I need additional lumbar support to feel comfortable. There is an adjustable lumbar cushion for the Nogaro, which I plan to order.

I ordered the seats and the Brey Krause Hardware from HMS Motorsports. I live nearby the Danvers, MA location and was able to talk to Cody and get the full run-down on everything needed for the seats.

BK R9224 - BMW E46/E85/E86 Seat Mounts (Qty 1) - $300

If you are planning to add wiring for seat controls, there is a very comprehensive set of instructions along with a parts list. Pricing for the E30 door switch (used for the seat control buttons) was all over the place. $80 each on FCP Euro but only $15 each on Pelican Parts (you need 2 switches).

http://qnuwm.rpstd.servertrust.com/v...ions/R9286.pdf

There is also a video of someone installing the electric controls for a Nogaro in an M2, which I found to be very helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCQ0a2oZq5g

If you plan to use a 6-point harness, this is the extra mounting point hardware required for a full setup for both seats. Note that the Lap belt snap mount kit (BK R9225) includes mounts for 2 seats. If you only plan to use a harness for the Drivers seat, then you do not need the Passenger side submount (BK R229).

BK R9228 - Driver side submount - E36/E46 (Qty 1)- $60
BK R9229 - Passenger side submount - E36/E46 (Qty 1) - $60
BK R9225 - Lap belt snap mounts - E36/E46 (Qty 1) - $84

Seat Installation tips
  • If you are doing the wiring, make sure to test the controls in the car BEFORE mounting the seat to the bracket
  • Keep all of the main bolts connecting the seat to the mount bracket relatively loose BEFORE putting the seat in the car. Tighten them after you've bolted the seat bracket into the car. If you tighten everything beforehand, then there's a high probability that at least one of the holes in the seat mount will not lineup with the holes in the floor of the car. Ask me how I know!
  • For the wiring part, a wire stripper/crimping tool, small set of needle nose pliers and electrical tape are extremely helpful

Airbag light.

The main issue is that the signal from the seat occupancy sensor is missing once you switch out the OEM seats. The airbags will still fire in the event of an accident but they will fire at full-force regardless if anyone is actually sitting in the seat. There are a few ways to tackle this issue. You can have Cobra install seat sensors into the seat or you can try installing them yourself. The sensors are ~$160 each. This is the most expensive, yet complete solution. The second-most expensive option is to order a seat occupancy sensor gadget from Ebay (~$80 each) which basically tricks the car into turning the airbag lights off. The cheapest solution is the resistor method, which again tricks the computer into thinking the seat is always occupied. This method requires some irreversible soldering to your car's electronic panels.

I haven't tried any of these yet and plan in the near-term to drive with the sensor light on. Supposedly in Massachusetts, if you car is 10+ years old you can pass state inspection with an airbag light on the dash. I haven't tested this yet but will find out this month when I go for an inspection renewal.
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      01-14-2021, 05:59 PM   #37
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I intend to order a wiechers roll bar here in the next month. If anyone else wants one, we could ship together and settle state-side shipping via greyhound and save a little

Let me know.
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      01-21-2021, 08:29 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCouper View Post
Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the seat install but it was very straight-forward. The only complicated part was wiring the seat harness to work with the horizontal power functions. If you're installing the manual slider, then it's probably way easier.

Space-wise, the seats are a bit smaller than the OEM M seats but still fill out the cabin pretty well. I'm 5"7' and have about 8-10 inches of space between the back of the seat and the back panel. For my own personal ergonomics, the seating position is an inch or two lower, which takes a little getting used to and I need additional lumbar support to feel comfortable. There is an adjustable lumbar cushion for the Nogaro, which I plan to order.

I ordered the seats and the Brey Krause Hardware from HMS Motorsports. I live nearby the Danvers, MA location and was able to talk to Cody and get the full run-down on everything needed for the seats.

BK R9224 - BMW E46/E85/E86 Seat Mounts (Qty 1) - $300

If you are planning to add wiring for seat controls, there is a very comprehensive set of instructions along with a parts list. Pricing for the E30 door switch (used for the seat control buttons) was all over the place. $80 each on FCP Euro but only $15 each on Pelican Parts (you need 2 switches).

http://qnuwm.rpstd.servertrust.com/v...ions/R9286.pdf

There is also a video of someone installing the electric controls for a Nogaro in an M2, which I found to be very helpful:



If you plan to use a 6-point harness, this is the extra mounting point hardware required for a full setup for both seats. Note that the Lap belt snap mount kit (BK R9225) includes mounts for 2 seats. If you only plan to use a harness for the Drivers seat, then you do not need the Passenger side submount (BK R229).

BK R9228 - Driver side submount - E36/E46 (Qty 1)- $60
BK R9229 - Passenger side submount - E36/E46 (Qty 1) - $60
BK R9225 - Lap belt snap mounts - E36/E46 (Qty 1) - $84

Seat Installation tips
  • If you are doing the wiring, make sure to test the controls in the car BEFORE mounting the seat to the bracket
  • Keep all of the main bolts connecting the seat to the mount bracket relatively loose BEFORE putting the seat in the car. Tighten them after you've bolted the seat bracket into the car. If you tighten everything beforehand, then there's a high probability that at least one of the holes in the seat mount will not lineup with the holes in the floor of the car. Ask me how I know!
  • For the wiring part, a wire stripper/crimping tool, small set of needle nose pliers and electrical tape are extremely helpful

Airbag light.

The main issue is that the signal from the seat occupancy sensor is missing once you switch out the OEM seats. The airbags will still fire in the event of an accident but they will fire at full-force regardless if anyone is actually sitting in the seat. There are a few ways to tackle this issue. You can have Cobra install seat sensors into the seat or you can try installing them yourself. The sensors are ~$160 each. This is the most expensive, yet complete solution. The second-most expensive option is to order a seat occupancy sensor gadget from Ebay (~$80 each) which basically tricks the car into turning the airbag lights off. The cheapest solution is the resistor method, which again tricks the computer into thinking the seat is always occupied. This method requires some irreversible soldering to your car's electronic panels.

I haven't tried any of these yet and plan in the near-term to drive with the sensor light on. Supposedly in Massachusetts, if you car is 10+ years old you can pass state inspection with an airbag light on the dash. I haven't tested this yet but will find out this month when I go for an inspection renewal.
MCouper, this is what I got for the passenger airbag sensor and haven't had any issues with the light. Also in MA and didn't have any issues with inspection with it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Seat-Occupa....m46890.l49292

I just sent an order request for a roll bar for my Coupe today. I'll see what they say about shipping once they get back to me.
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      09-12-2021, 07:06 PM   #39
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Any more updates with pictures of the rear trim and how it attaches around the cage?
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      11-16-2021, 03:39 PM   #40
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The more I look, the more I think I'm just going to pull the rigger on the Wiechers.

Anyone know if the shock mounts are in the same position on the coupe versus the roadster?
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      11-19-2021, 07:44 AM   #41
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I investigated the Weichers option. I know I am probably going to get blasted for this but here goes:

1. The Weichers roll bar is designed to fit with the existing interior trim and bulkhead, but it is a compromised design because of that very reason. It essentially provides a mounting point for harnesses.
2. a rollbar that utilizes the rear shock towers as rear mounting points is more ideal, and would require less holes to drill in your car. I REALLY Like design in the attached pic (obviously requires removal of the bulkhead and trim to fit)
3. The bulkhead in the Coupe was originally designed for the Roadster, to house seatbelts (because Roadster has no B pillars) and speakers. If the coupe was designed first, it would be a true hatchback with no bulkhead, like the 911, and have the seatbelts mounted on the B pillar. BMW was lazy and just carried forward 90% of the Z4 Roadster design in the Coupe because they didn't want to do more work. They knew the Coupe would only sell a fraction of the Roadster volume, and it wasn't worth it to put in a lot of design effort.

I know many of you are interested in the Weichers because the idea of removing your stock trim & bulkhead is way too much modification than you are willing to make on your sweet little Z4M. but, as many eventually realize, you either have a street setup or a track setup. Very hard/impossible to have a hybrid. If you want/need a rollbar, do it right.

I am in the process of removing my bulkhead as part of my Z4M diet, and may add a custom rollbar but may not. Contrary to what some say on this and other forums, the bulkhead adds ZERO structural integrity to the Coupe's chassis, and can be removed without any negative effects. Stock seatbelts will be relocated to the floor with a loop on the b pillar using this: https://www.seatbeltsplus.com/product/CA-53.html

I hate the wall of plastic behind the seats, and removing all the junk is what started me down this path. This car should be a true hatchback, not a converted roadster.
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      06-07-2023, 07:18 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dre99gsx View Post
Afrim - the other images showing bracket locations and fender holes you linked are gone.

Here are some from my install. Note the special Dewalt tool I used to drill the rear holes
dre99gsx - did you go with the single rear brace or X? And what was your rational for choosing one over the other?
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      06-07-2023, 07:59 AM   #43
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Single cross-over bar because of weight, ease of install, and don't think x-bar would provide any additional benefit beyond what a single bar would do.

If the Z4 was not a rigid chassis, I would opt for X-bar...
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      06-08-2023, 05:02 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by dre99gsx View Post
Single cross-over bar because of weight, ease of install, and don't think x-bar would provide any additional benefit beyond what a single bar would do.

If the Z4 was not a rigid chassis, I would opt for X-bar...
Makes sense. I was thinking because it’s not welded, maybe the additional brace would help in that sense but prob not. And end of day, the main reason to go with this setup (for me at least) is having a harness bar. Not relying on it for rollover protection.
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