Total toe on the street

[NHZED4]

What are you using for total toe in front for the street and why.

[Finnegan]

Front or rear?

Zero front. Why? -2.0. Toe in would cause excessive wear with those camber settings.

Rear? Can't recall offhand, but some toe in, somewhere in the low end of recommended stock range. Why? Zero toe would be unstable/unpredictable.

[a_riddler]

+1!

Zero toe in the front for street.

something like 1/32" toe in for the rear, can't remember

Same reasons as above!

[NHZED4]

Originally Posted by Finnegan

Front or rear?

Zero front. Why? -2.0. Toe in would cause excessive wear with those camber settings.

Rear? Can't recall offhand, but some toe in, somewhere in the low end of recommended stock range. Why? Zero toe would be unstable/unpredictable.

Where would the wear be on the front tires with -2.0 and toe?
Thanks Finnegan

The reason I ask is that I am trying to dial in my 3.0i after a hit, I have -1.3 camber left and -.2 right in the front and .1 toe and I was getting hefty tramaling?? and inner tread wear, but it handled and rode quietly. I know I need to get rid of these RFT's....

[Finnegan]

Originally Posted by NHREDZ4

Where would the wear be on the front tires with -2.0 and toe?
Thanks Finnegan

The reason I ask is that I am trying to dial in my 3.0i after a hit, I have -1.3 camber left and -.2 right in the front and .1 toe and I was getting hefty tramaling?? and inner tread wear, but it handled and rode quietly. I know I need to get rid of these RFT's....

Front settings don't seem extreme enough for tramlining--that's probably more an result of tires in this case.

Stock settings and ranges for the 3.0 can be found here.

Toe isn't that extreme either, and -1.3 isn't enough negative camber to not consider some small amount of toe in. Camber left/right should be, IMO, within .1 on either side. Can isn't handling up to it's potential with those whacked settings.

If your shop can't get anything better than that, you probably have bent/compromised suspension components (best case) or other structural damage (worst case). If its structural, I think it's possible that the entire car could be "crabbing" down the road, regardless of alignment settings, and that would really mess up tire wear (and handling).

If you have more data on the "hit", let us know. If not, you need to work backwards from the alignment to the suspension and so on to determine where the issues are and correct at that level.