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07-17-2012, 07:09 AM | #1 |
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Actual Experience with Aftermarket Rear Shock Mounts.
I have done the searching and the research. I have formed my own opinion but want to solicit other opinions from users who actually have aftermarket rear shock mounts on the car.
Which ones have the appearance of the ‘best value’? Which ones have the best control? I am NOT looking for improvements in ride quality. I want something that works. |
07-17-2012, 04:18 PM | #2 |
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I don't see how one could tell the "difference" in RSM's aside from ride quality as defined by NVH. When I installed my coilovers I went with the Rogue ones simply b/c they are rebuildable but I wasn't able to discern any real improvements from the RSM alone.
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07-17-2012, 05:37 PM | #3 |
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I have Rogue top mounts on my Z3MC which have been on the car for about 7 years now with no problems.
When I recently fitted AC Schnitzer Racing suspension to my Z4MC I made some top mount brackets from Z3 Roadster strengthening plates with Meyle rear top mounts. I knocked the bolts out of the meyle mounts and then welded them into the Z3 plates so that the Meyle top mounts could be mounted from within the wheel arches, without having to remove the rear trim to remove the suspension or replace the top mount bushes. The cost was less than half the price of the Rogue mounts. |
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07-17-2012, 05:43 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
I have the rouge eng ones as well but I don't think you can go wrong with any of them.....
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07-17-2012, 05:49 PM | #5 |
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Thanks for the comments.
I am slowly acquiring the parts to replace all the rubber in the suspension and I have new dampers to put on the car also. It will be the best time to replace the RSM's. Now if the E36 offset FCAB inserts pan out.... |
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07-18-2012, 05:44 AM | #7 |
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07-18-2012, 10:56 AM | #8 |
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I've done both fcab's and rtab's recently. After doing my share of research, even for a car that sees track time, rubber seems like the way to go. They last a good 40k and going poly leads to more trouble than its worth (increased NVH & premature failure).
I bought the oe fcabs with the pre-pressed lollipop for a quick install. On the rear I went oe + vorshlag limiters but this is one area I might've gone Powerflex just because the install is so much easier and I've yet to read a bad reivew Powerflex rtab's. |
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07-18-2012, 05:21 PM | #9 |
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You need to install a larger washer on that mount. The washer diameter should be larger than the metal neck of the mount. Also, something is going on with the stack and the locking portion of the locknut has not engaged the threads of the shock shaft.
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07-19-2012, 03:21 AM | #10 |
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I know what you mean but the shock is an AC Schnitzer Racing shock and that's the way it fits.
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07-19-2012, 06:05 AM | #11 |
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Standard mechanical maintenance practices state that minimum thread engagement on a ni-lock nut is the shaft/bolt be flush with the end of the nut. Additionally no more than 10 threads (maximum) should protrude from the body of the nut.
On a regular nut the minimum thread engagement should be two threads protruding from the face of the nut. The maximum is still the same. You do have an issue. The shaft/nut combination does not have its maximum holding power in its current configuration. |
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07-19-2012, 06:14 AM | #12 |
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Thanks for your input guys
I've just removed the rear shocks and revisited this issue. I'd replaced the OEM top mounts (done 25k miles) with new Meyle ones. So, I've now reverted to the original OEM shock mounts which are still in excellent condition (visually) and these are few mm shorter and so I've reinstalled them with the OEM larger domed washer and the nut fits so that it's flush with the top of the damper thread and that's the best that I'm going to get from these dampers. Thanks again for your helpful comments: it's appreciated. |
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