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      10-29-2019, 10:00 PM   #1
DerE85Fahrer
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Who has the highest mileage?

Hello everyone,

Since it seems that many people use Z4's exclusively as weekend/fun cars, I'm curious how many of you have higher mileage cars, and what your experience has been in terms of reliability and wear. I'll go first: 2006 Z4, 154k miles. The only issues I have had are a couple minor interior rattles, three oil leaks, front control arm bushing wear, and one alternator replacement. I'm mainly curious to see who has the highest mileage Z4, just as a matter of interest.
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      10-30-2019, 12:43 AM   #2
Willy Sea
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And I'll go second, 2007 3.0si coupe so the N52B3 265bhp engine, later series with the black top. 120000 miles (200000kms)Alternator replaced, FCAB's too along with other sundry bushes.
Same, oil leaks from the top cover, and nothing else. Serviced yearly and usual disc and pad replacements but still on original shocks exhaust clutch etc and needs nothing. Runs like a clock! and a delight to drive.

Last edited by Willy Sea; 10-30-2019 at 12:54 AM..
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      10-30-2019, 03:52 AM   #3
zgood4u
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06 M coupe 163000 miles. Just had the oil pan seal done now needing an AC compressor. Overall a wonderfully reliable car and it will be a blast to drive once again to Pittsburgh this weekend.
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      10-30-2019, 07:51 AM   #4
mmm-five
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My Z4MC has 165,000 miles on it, as it was used as a daily driver for about 4 years before becoming a weekend/trackday car.

Other than regular 6,000 mile oil changes, and annual inspection 2s (never bothered with the insp.1) it has had:
  • 1 x engine (under warranty @ 23,000 mile)
  • 2 x differentials (one caused by accident damage)
  • 2 x rear trailing arms (accident damage)
  • A couple of parking sensors
  • 2 x new xenon ballasts
  • 1 x alternator
  • 1 x radiator, water pump, thermostat (as part of cooling system refresh)
  • 1 x battery
  • A couple of wheel bearings
  • Lots of suspension/steering bushes (about every 40,000 miles)

On top of that I’ve fitted some aftermarket bits:
  • Rogue Diablo exhausts
  • Bilstein B16 PSS10 suspension
  • Recaro Pole Position ABE seats
  • Skyer rear spoiler
  • Porsche 996 Brembo f&r brake kit with Pagid RS29 pads
  • Vibratechnics ‘road’ engine mounts

Last edited by mmm-five; 10-30-2019 at 08:00 AM..
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      10-30-2019, 12:48 PM   #5
mziggy16
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133,000 and counting.

My repair file is too long to list, but rod bearings, VANOS and all the usual suspects make an appearance.

I'm leaking a drop at the valve cover, but that should be rectified in the next few weeks along with a suspension refresh.
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      12-11-2019, 06:07 PM   #6
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04 2.5i with just over 216,000 miles. Bought it from my brother-in-law for $400 with a few issues. I've fixed a few of them and still have a few to work on.

1) EPS computer failed. Replaced the motor/ECU on the steering column.
2) Yaw sensor failed. Replaced with a unit from a Mini
3) Satellite B-pillar module failed. Replaced with a unit from a 645Ci
4) Brake pressure sensor failed. New one is on order.
5) Suspension is shot. Just purchased new Koni struts/shocks and new OEM springs and the tid bits to replace all four corners.
6) Power top motor is acting up. Will need to deal with that before Spring.

Runs great. Transmission shifts smoothly. Body is in great condition. Interior is in great condition. My BIL took very good care of this car, just didn't have the desire to dig into fixing these items himself (since the car is not worth having it fixed by a stealership).

When I'm done, I'll have about $2500 invested for a great little car.
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      12-12-2019, 08:09 AM   #7
zgood4u
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at 166000 now.
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      12-12-2019, 03:54 PM   #8
Roadroach
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Currently at 137,500 miles (purchased with about 63k miles on it 4 years ago). Runs great (starting to get a bit of clutch chatter from a stop). No leaks that I can tell. Thinking about freshening up the suspension bits this spring and maybe a new clutch then.

My goal is 200k before I look for a replacement.
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      12-15-2019, 07:08 AM   #9
Efthreeoh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadroach View Post
Currently at 137,500 miles (purchased with about 63k miles on it 4 years ago). Runs great (starting to get a bit of clutch chatter from a stop). No leaks that I can tell. Thinking about freshening up the suspension bits this spring and maybe a new clutch then.

My goal is 200k before I look for a replacement.
The chatter is probably the dual-mass flywheel (DMF) starting to age and not the actual clutch components. If you decide to replace the clutch, replace the DMF along with the clutch components. The DMFs are known to go bad at higher miles.

Since no one asked... I just passed 100,000 miles last week. Bought my Z4 3.0si Coupe in December 2014 with 23,000 miles on it. Other than routine maintenance including one set of brakes and driveline fluid changes, this has been the most solid BMW I've owned out of the five I've owned; four of which I still have in the fleet. The only unusual issue with the Z4 was, I had to repair the broken cubby light switch with a sheet metal screw.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 12-15-2019 at 07:14 AM..
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      12-15-2019, 08:59 AM   #10
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Any repairs??

Quote:
Originally Posted by zgood4u View Post
at 166000 now.
Suspension?
Rod bearings?
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      12-15-2019, 10:31 PM   #11
DerE85Fahrer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
The only unusual issue with the Z4 was, I had to repair the broken cubby light switch with a sheet metal screw.
My center cubby between the seats has started having latch/light switch issues just within the past couple of weeks. Its almost like the button has a spring on each side but the spring has popped out on one side. I haven't looked yet to see how it actually works, that's just what it feels like. Also, the light doesn't turn on right away when the cubby is opened, but it will usually come on if I pull the messed up side of the release button back out. Is this similar to what you experienced?
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      12-16-2019, 05:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerE85Fahrer View Post
My center cubby between the seats has started having latch/light switch issues just within the past couple of weeks. Its almost like the button has a spring on each side but the spring has popped out on one side. I haven't looked yet to see how it actually works, that's just what it feels like. Also, the light doesn't turn on right away when the cubby is opened, but it will usually come on if I pull the messed up side of the release button back out. Is this similar to what you experienced?
I have a Coupe, so the cubby design may be different for the Roadster. On my Coupe, the door that opens to the cubby is supposed to have a plastic stem that protrudes from the hinge line of the door and contacts a switch when the door opens, which opens the switch and turns the light on. It is common for the plastic stem to break off and leaves the cubby door unable to close the switch when the door is closed, which leaves the light on all the time while the ignition is on. Without disassembling the door (I couldn't figure how to remove it ), I used a 90 deg. angle drill (one meant to drill between wall studs), to drill a hole in the bottom of the cubby door (at the hinge line) where the nub of the stem was. I installed a small longish sheet metal screw (#6 maybe) in place of the plastic stem.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      01-25-2020, 01:51 PM   #13
Patrick Gent
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2007 M Coupe. 148,000 miles. Bought at 30,000 in 2010. Vanos and alternator while under CPO warranty. Ignition coils. Stupid stuff--sunglass holder, B pillar cover driver's side kept falling off until I paid the money for the factory clips. I was at 60,000 before I discovered Mike Miller's Lifetime Maintenance Schedule. I have to keep this car forever (she will never let me get anything like it - if there is anything like it). Oil change usually around 4,000, into a really great independent for a checkover every third oil change. Diff and tranny per Mike Miller. Oil goes to Blackstone every time, so far lead is down and no copper, but eventually it will need connecting rod bearings. By the way, lead came way down once I let it warm up just a little bit each morning--I wait for the "orange line" on the tach to get to 6500 before I drive off.
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      01-25-2020, 01:58 PM   #14
Huz-Z
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I have a Coupe, so the cubby design may be different for the Roadster. On my Coupe, the door that opens to the cubby is supposed to have a plastic stem that protrudes from the hinge line of the door and contacts a switch when the door opens, which opens the switch and turns the light on. It is common for the plastic stem to break off and leaves the cubby door unable to close the switch when the door is closed, which leaves the light on all the time while the ignition is on. Without disassembling the door (I couldn't figure how to remove it ), I used a 90 deg. angle drill (one meant to drill between wall studs), to drill a hole in the bottom of the cubby door (at the hinge line) where the nub of the stem was. I installed a small longish sheet metal screw (#6 maybe) in place of the plastic stem.
Brilliant idea!! Is that a pun?
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      02-03-2020, 10:58 PM   #15
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140k miles on my z4m. Water pump went out around 135k so I refreshed the entire cooling system. All the other accessories are original, original vanos, original rod bearings. It's on jack stands right now as I'm in the middle of replacing the diff with a rebuilt unit. Original diff is whiney and clunks (not bushings).

This has been the most reliable bmw i've had (comparing to 2 non-M E46s and an E30). I won't make a big deal of minor things like bulbs or tensioner pulleys, or bushings.
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      02-19-2020, 10:47 PM   #16
filtercoffee
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2007 BMW Z4MC  [0.00]
Found one on craigslist with 227k miles!
https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/c...078077772.html

Tempted to buy...
Attached Images
File Type: pdf z4_227k.pdf (482.6 KB, 231 views)
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      02-26-2020, 04:31 PM   #17
angelr
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Mine has been mostly frozen at around 170k for a while now as I picked up a B8.5 S4 a year ago so I could reduce the mileage the Z would see as it had been my daily for years at that point.
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      03-02-2020, 09:03 AM   #18
tomjonesBT33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filtercoffee View Post
Found one on craigslist with 227k miles!
https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/c...078077772.html

Tempted to buy...
I would not be too worried about the miles as long as the maintenance history is good. I'm at 218K and use mine for my daily commute. Runs and drives great. Also helps that I do all of my own work and keep it in tip top shape.
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      03-08-2020, 09:27 PM   #19
Lucky1
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You guys are my heroes. At 34,000 miles and have a long way to catch up, just don't get enough good weather to drive it.
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      11-19-2021, 11:40 PM   #20
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I used to put in quite a few miles during the commute which has gotten me up above 135K. Impressed to see some of the higher numbers.
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      11-20-2021, 06:20 AM   #21
zgood4u
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zgood4u View Post
at 166000 now.
at 189000 currently
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      11-21-2021, 09:26 AM   #22
Squidd99
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My '08 3.0 Csi Roadster has 40,000 miles on it. I just bought it in May with 39,000 miles, so I guess I have some serious driving to do. I'll post an update here in December.
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