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      06-26-2022, 12:02 PM   #23
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I’ve had the “trifecta” show up 4 times on my 128i and its always been a wheel speed sensor.
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      07-14-2022, 04:20 PM   #24
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Ok finally back from England and have my code reader. It's giving me these codes. What's it telling me? I'll start googling.














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      07-14-2022, 04:21 PM   #25
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Under DSC it's saying wheel speed sensor and something with the coil. Could the sensor be driving all the other errors?
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      07-14-2022, 05:08 PM   #26
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Ok I realized those screen shots suck. So the 5 codes listed specifically under DSC are

005E1F
005E16
005E5B
005DF4
005DF7
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      07-14-2022, 06:00 PM   #27
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Sorry to keep spamming I'm just our driving and seeing what codes happen. So I cleared all the codes, and I think a lot of them were because the car sat for a few weeks with the battery disconnected while I was having the steering wheel refreshed.

After driving a while, the ONLY code coming up is this. I'm stopping to have battery tested now.

Any other insights?

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      07-14-2022, 06:15 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinHEMI View Post
Sorry to keep spamming I'm just our driving and seeing what codes happen. So I cleared all the codes, and I think a lot of them were because the car sat for a few weeks with the battery disconnected while I was having the steering wheel refreshed.

After driving a while, the ONLY code coming up is this. I'm stopping to have battery tested now.

Any other insights?

Do you have warning lights on dash still?
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      07-14-2022, 06:21 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Do you have warning lights on dash still?
Yes same 3 flashing intermittent. They and the code was out for a while.

Just notified battery weeping a bit. Will post photo when I get home.
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      07-14-2022, 06:45 PM   #30
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OK here's a pic of the battery weepage.



And here's a video of the battery after some good hard driving. I'm not sure this is normal. The question is, is the battery the problem or the alternator?


I'm thinking it's being over charged.

https://youtube.com/shorts/fchF_ddQm-g?feature=share
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      07-14-2022, 06:53 PM   #31
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This thread points to a faulty voltage regulator:
https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669131
I found it by searching "5DF7 code".
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      07-14-2022, 06:58 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3798j View Post
This thread points to a faulty voltage regulator:
https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=669131
I found it by searching "5DF7 code".
Which if I'm not mistaken, means we need to replace the alternator as it's integrated. Not too bad, looks like FCP Euro has one for 330 bucks.
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      07-14-2022, 08:13 PM   #33
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Alright went out for more testing. This time I pulled up the OBC menu in the dash and set it to monitor battery voltage. I also pulled up the app for my reader (Carly) and set it to monitor battery charging, voltage, etc.

The lights only come on WHEN the voltage spikes >17.5v, which is in line with what the code is saying at >18V.

One thing that is new is that the center console lights go OUT when the trifecta is lit. (The instrument cluster is unaffected). I am showing that in the video below. What can't be seen in the video is when driving, there's a momentary change in throttle response when the trifecta is lit as well, so this is affecting other systems.

To me, this says alternator. Does anyone disagree?


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      07-15-2022, 01:15 PM   #34
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The voltage regulator can be swapped without replacing the alternator. For a Valeo alternator (I'm pretty sure the alternator on Z4M's are all from Valeo) you can replace with Valeo part number 593873. That is what I used when I changed mine. I did it proactively before troubles started to appear.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22237535128...0AAOSwnHZYdwNy
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      07-15-2022, 01:17 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elerner61 View Post
The voltage regulator can be swapped without replacing the alternator. For a Valeo alternator (I'm pretty sure the alternator on Z4M's are all from Valeo) you can replace with Valeo part number 593873. That is what I used when I changed mine. I did it proactively before troubles started to appear.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/22237535128...0AAOSwnHZYdwNy
Thank you yeah after more reading I saw that about the VR. Since I'm taking it out anyway I'm just replacing the whole thing. FCP euro has a valeo for about 330.
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      07-17-2022, 11:02 AM   #36
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Personally, if my voltage was anywhere near 18v, I wouldn't even start the vehicle until I resolved the regulator issue, that's really bad for the electronics
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      07-17-2022, 11:05 AM   #37
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Yep which is why it hasn't ran since troubleshooting revealed that.
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      07-17-2022, 11:31 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinHEMI View Post
OK here's a pic of the battery weepage.



And here's a video of the battery after some good hard driving. I'm not sure this is normal. The question is, is the battery the problem or the alternator?


I'm thinking it's being over charged.

https://youtube.com/shorts/fchF_ddQm-g?feature=share
That "weep" is actually a vent hole. It's intended to allow gases to escape as the battery charges. Usually there is a plastic piece in there connected to a rubber hose to properly vent them from the battery box area. If not vented correctly it will cause premature damage to the battery box as the fumes & liquid are corrosive.
As for your other problem with the lights. I have had the same issue and all it was is the wheel sensor was dirty and I removed it and cleaned it. Problem hasn't returned yet.
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      07-17-2022, 11:57 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinHEMI View Post
Yep which is why it hasn't ran since troubleshooting revealed that.
gotcha


I just changed the Bosch alternator in my E39 for under voltage. I removed the regulator and the brushes were worn down @132k miles. After inspecting the slip rings, one of them had a pretty deep groove in it so bought a complete alternator instead of rebuilding the old one. If the slip rings looked good I probably would have just replaced the regulator/brush assembly. I'll rebuild the old alternator with new slip rings, bearing and regulator since I hate to just throw it out.
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      07-17-2022, 12:06 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B328iC View Post
That "weep" is actually a vent hole. It's intended to allow gases to escape as the battery charges. Usually there is a plastic piece in there connected to a rubber hose to properly vent them from the battery box area. If not vented correctly it will cause premature damage to the battery box as the fumes & liquid are corrosive.
There's usually a vent on the other side of the battery as well so the vent hose is probably connected on the other side. Usually there's a plug in the vent holes on both sides of a new battery so the installer can select which vent to use for hose routing when putting the battery in. The venting hose is also meant to expel battery fumes outside the vehicle so you don't breath them in.
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      07-18-2022, 08:04 PM   #41
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Wow, this was way 'easier' than I thought it would be. I swapped out the alt and battery in under an hour. I would have bet against myself at 3+ hours.


ANWAY, all is right in the world again, and I think this VR must have been going bad long before the lights showed up. I always felt this car idled a little rough but incorrectly assumed that was just the nature of the beast. Now that the voltage is regulated where it belongs, the idle and overall running is improved.

I'll keep the old one on hand as a spare and maybe rebuild it in my spare time.

So glad I waited to properly diagnose before just changing parts.


OH, and speaking of the battery weepage/vent, yes, the vent tube was connected to back port of the battery that was in there. It was boiling so much that it was weeping past the plug in the vent hole in the photo above. This AGM battery came with a plug for whichever vent hole you don't hook up to, so I plugged the one towards the back of the car (it's red in the photos) and hooked up the vent line to the other. (Even though I didn't think AGM batteries needed venting, it said to hook it up if the car has it, so I did).








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