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04-04-2020, 02:38 PM | #1 |
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Z4 M Roadster Rear Shocks
What's the experience with the original equipment shocks? Mine have only a bit more than 25k miles. When I removed them to replace the crumbling bump stops, I found they have no rebound at all. Typical?
Options? I've searched on suspension issues, but seeking current tips. Bought last year as documented one owner, well kept stock car with 24k miles. Thanks, John |
04-04-2020, 05:46 PM | #2 |
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I replaced the stockers on my first Z4MC in the 40k-mile range, with Bilstein B6's. They seemed to be performing "ok" but I wanted a refresh with a better-quality damper.
My current (2nd) Z4MC is at 43k miles and the stock dampers *seem* to be performing fine. If yours are acting as you describe, sounds like one or both has failed prematurely. They should still be holding up ok at 25k miles and somewhat beyond, one would have to believe. I'm gonna do B6's all-around again on this car, probably at 50k, as well as refreshing the FCABs and RTABs.
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04-04-2020, 06:32 PM | #3 |
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Thanks Kevin. Sounds like you're satisfied with B6s, which are actually cheaper than stock shocks, but I've have to do struts, too, for a proper match. I'd prefer to just use stock rear replacements, but the early failure gives me pause. It's a roadster, just a summer evening cruiser, but the cruising can be exuberant and I want crisp handling without losing teeth and kidneys.
John |
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04-28-2020, 07:05 PM | #4 |
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For the record, I'm now riding with Bilstein B6s on the rear. Car feels great. Perhaps a little more compliant than stock. For now, still have stock struts in front. Now, as for those little plastic clips to secure the top shelf in the MR trunk....
John |
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04-29-2020, 08:22 AM | #5 |
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I was having problems myself. It's not hard at all. Once you have it all back together minus the clips.
Verify the top still works so you know you don't have to remove the shelf to fix the switch the shelf hits when fully down. If you have a wind deflector remove it. Close the top and go into the trunk and put the shelf in the full up position. When you installed the shelf you saw the spring loaded plastic piece that sits upright at a 90 from the shelf. The clips go just on the other side of this plastic piece. Go into the car and from the Drivers side you can reach back and install the clips on the Passenger side by reaching between the seats. Then go to the other side and do the same for the Drivers side. They go in really easy so back to the trunk and check that they are fully down and in place. Good luck. |
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04-30-2020, 12:22 PM | #6 |
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if your in there, use these:
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Rogue-En...0-E36-E46.html
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05-03-2020, 05:40 PM | #7 |
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B328iC thanks for the tip. So install them from the top, not the bottom? Some day when I'm really relaxed, I'll go at the clips again. The cover is secure enough without them, unless I try to change its position, now ready for top down.
And Ken, I did use the rogue engineering rear shock mounts. I had a Z3 M Coupe some years ago and used the rogues back then. John BMWCCA |
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05-05-2020, 12:35 PM | #8 |
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Installed Bilstein B6s, front and rear, at about 40K miles. There was no gas (Nitrogen?) pressure left in either of the OEMs. The ride quality was improved considerably. I'm sold on these guys for a much improved street ride.
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05-20-2020, 02:56 AM | #9 |
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Garage List 2004 e46 M3 Convert ... [7.50]
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I just had a pss10 kit installed at 62K kms. Rear shocks weren't shot, but I get what u say.
Also had powerflex rear bump stops installed, no more creaks and cluncks. |
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