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08-19-2015, 09:58 AM | #1 |
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What jack/stands do you use?
Jack: 1.5-ton Harbor Freight with a lifting range from 3 1/2" - 14 1/8"
Stands: Harbor Freight with a minimum height of 11 3/16". When I lift my rear from the bolts on the rear axle tension struts I don't have enough clearance to slide the jack stands under the 2 rear side jack points. I need to drive it up some ramps and then use my heavy duty jack to lift it up high enough to slide the jack stands underneath. The problem with this is, when I try to lower the car back down, the ramps start to buckle under the weight of the car. They hold up fine if I drive up, but not if I lower the car onto them (). Question #1: The other alternative is to get jack stands that have a lower minimum height. Does anyone know of any that go down to 9"? Question #2: How do you put the front of the car on jack stands if you don't use the front center jacking point. It's way too far almost in the middle of the car so I can't reach it with my jack. Is there any way to jack up one corner and still have room to slide the jackstand under the jacking point? |
08-19-2015, 03:08 PM | #2 |
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best jack stands money can buy:
http://www.amazon.com/ESCO-Jack-Stan.../dp/B0019JVIPM there is a way to use the front jack point with a standard length jack, its a multistep process and kind of a pain in the ass. someone will link it I'm sure. the only way to make it convenient is to buy a lift, or buy one of these: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ACHyd1_pg1.htm |
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08-19-2015, 04:29 PM | #3 | |
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The jack I use is the Harbor Freight 2 ton steel jack. It is their lowest profile jack and also has their longest reach. Their aluminum and 3 or 4 ton versions are not as low profile and/or have a shorter reach by far. http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ump-60678.html Here's what it looks like next to my old "normal" jack. Unfortunately it is not low enough to reach the front central lift pad, even with the car on stock suspension, although you can't really see underneath to line it up anyway. So, I jack up one side with my regular jack so that I can clear the front bumper and also see clearly enough to align the main jack. I can lower the car from the front center lift point with no problem though, because the suspension doesn't settle fully when lowered. |
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08-19-2015, 04:55 PM | #4 |
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When jacking, I roll the front wheels onto ramps I made from scrap wood, about 2" high. That gives me clearance to use my big heavy Lincoln jack. I lift the front and lower on the front two jack stands, the torin stands with the jack adapter from reverselogic. Once the front is up there's just enough clearance in the back to get my jack under the tension rod bolts. I think this is pretty standard procedure. I also have a quickjack that i started using instead of the jack dance whenever I need 4 wheels in the air.
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08-19-2015, 06:07 PM | #5 |
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^^ I sort of do the same thing, except I use stacks of cardboard as my ramps. What better way to use the mountain of cardboard boxes in my garage
If you break down old boxes for this, you only need 3-4 boxes per side (to fit a big jack), and the surface area can be pretty big so you don't need to be precise getting up on them at all |
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08-19-2015, 08:58 PM | #6 |
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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08-20-2015, 08:37 AM | #7 |
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Okay, I just figured out a way to safely jack up my rear after reading your replies. I've been doing quick work while the car's on 2 jacks without jackstands, but I'm always nervous the car might collapse on my arms while working. Now I use the compact jack to lift it to the max height, then slide a few of these mats under the rear wheels. Now I have enough clearance to use my heavy duty jack to lift it high enough to slide my jack stands underneath.
I slide a few of those mats under each tire for winter storage, so I had them lying around anyways. A little annoying to jack it up twice, but at least I don't need to buy anymore equipment except maybe a BMW jackpad adapter. My side jackpoints are getting worn down. Has anyone had experience with either of these: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-Jack-Pad-A...0077789&sr=8-1 http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Billet...w+jack+adapter http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Adap...w+jack+adapter |
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08-20-2015, 10:31 AM | #8 |
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Here is the method I use (credit to crfine88)
I have the same low profile jack. Raise the rear first, then the front by rolling the jack to the center jack point between the front and rear tires on either side of the car. Be careful not to get in the way of the jackstand supports. No driving up on wood is needed.
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08-20-2015, 11:08 AM | #9 | |
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08-20-2015, 11:13 AM | #10 |
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08-21-2015, 01:22 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=983883
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08-21-2015, 08:55 AM | #12 |
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Four of these work great and transport easy.
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08-21-2015, 09:49 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1009805 |
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08-22-2015, 10:36 PM | #14 |
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If you have a floor that is not perfectly flat and level, I don't think those torin stands have a safe base shape. Because its round-ish, its more likely to try to "walk" out from under the car if the loading vector is not perfectly axial.
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