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08-11-2015, 09:44 PM | #1 |
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Fender removal
Has anyone removed the front passenger fender? I can see the hex screws in the engine bay, but I'd imagine those are the last screws to remove. There's probably more screws along the bumper, in the wheel well, above the side skirts and by the door hinge as well. Has anyone seen a diagram detailing the locations of the body screws holding the fender in place?
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08-13-2015, 05:52 AM | #2 |
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RealOEM helps here...
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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08-13-2015, 06:38 AM | #3 |
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There is a thread by Shipkiller where he removed fenders.
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=621668
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08-13-2015, 03:19 PM | #4 |
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Been there done that, it's not that bad.
Turn the side marker housing counter clockwise and disconnect the wire. Carefully remove the plastic trim piece that surrounds it (it just unclips and pulls out real simple) Using a nice ratchet and a couple extensions remove the bolts in the fender near the back (you can see where they are with the door open, inside the door jam). I used a miniature snapon 3/8" with a very tight arc between teeth. It still sucked a bit. With the right setup you can put the ratchet so it swings in the opening from the side marker. Remove the side-skirt from the bottom of the car, a few push rivets and a couple bolts then slide it back and it unclips. Also need to lift and remove the trim where it goes over it inside the door jam. I remember this being stupid easy to do. Undo all the push rivets that hold the fender liner to the fender. Undo the bolts hidden by the side skirt and I think one under the liner. Grab hold of the front bumper at the corner where it meets the fender, cringe, and pull. It will unclip and pull away, revealing another 10mm (??) bolt near the headlight. Undo the bolts that run along the top edge of the fender that you were talking about in the first post. If my memory is right (and this is all by memory, so double check that nothing looks to be missed) the fender can be carefully lifted away. Removal took me a few minutes longer cause some of the plastic clips on the skirt and front bumper scared me, but despite the loud noises it was all ok. Re-install took realistically 15-20 minutes while being very careful to make sure everything was exactly lined up with the other body panels and nothing was scratched or dinged by tools etc. EDIT: Looks like I deleted the pictures I took of the car with the fender removed or I'd post them up to show mount points
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08-14-2015, 08:02 AM | #5 |
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Thanks everyone for all the helpful posts. I had a slight mishap with my garage door rail and the body shop wants $1000 to take out a small dent The paint's scraped down to the metal so I can't take it to a PDR guy. I'm thinking it might be cheaper to either remove it myself and bring it to them to fix/respray, or buy a used one that's already painted jet black. Not sure how a used one will match up color-wise. Is this a bad idea?
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