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      08-27-2014, 12:13 PM   #23
StickMon
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Seems to have stopped cracking.
Washed the car twice, and no obvious signs of leaking.
Fingers crossed.
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      12-30-2015, 10:50 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmanscotch View Post
Like many of you, my third brake light had seen better days as it was cracked down the center and chipped off on one edge. I contemplated keeping the standard red lens, but ultimately went with the clear as the replacement.

Parts/Tools Needed:

From Mike at TheBMWPartStore.com:

- Red OE Third Brake Light - P/N 63256917378 - $74.62
----OR------
- Clear OE Third Brake Light - P/N 63256930246 - $61.86

- Three (3) New 40N retaining springs - P/N 63256900698 - $0.41


- 8 MM Deep Socket
- Ratchet
- Phillips Screw Driver (normal size)
- Magnet (Optional but potentially handy)

Start by opening the trunk and locating the panel that houses the Emergency Trunk Release handle. This panel will be held in place be two (2) obvious phillips head screws.







Remove both screws and pull the panel down (is still connected, can tape it to hang out of the way). You will then need to locate the electrical connection for the third brake light and unplug it simply by pulling the plugs apart from eachother. (Hint: It's not the one I'm holding, but rather up and left of my hand).







Now, you will need to access the three (3) bolts/nuts that secure the brake light to the trunk lid. Those three nuts can be access in the holes seen here:






Using your 8 MM deep socket, access the nuts via the three aforementioned access holes and unscrew each one, taking note that there are NO washers to loose, just a nut and the spring, as pictured below.

It's worth noting, this is where the magnet may come in handy. If you have bigger hands like me, you might find it difficult to retrieve the nut and spring if you accidentially drip it out of the socket before removing it from the inner workings of sheet metal in the trunk lid. Before just fishing around in there, use a magnet to retrieve the items since there does exist the posibility of knocking the nuts and/or springs deep into the sheet metal voids that exist in the trunk lid and you will be f*cked....atleast in the sense of a potential rattle source and needing new parts to replace those lost.







All three sets of nuts and springs removed, here is the parts we're working with (shown with the new brake light). To remove the brake light housing, you simply pull (or push on the bolts) out and away from the trunk. Make sure you mind the electrical connection and that you free the plug from any thing it may catch on. Also take note of the route in which the plug is snaked through, as you will need to fish the new one through there as well.

* My old light housing was cracked and simply broke when tugged on. I imagine there maybe some clips on the housing that would need released if it's integrity is intact, but I cannot speak to this unfortunately.



My broken setup.






With the old unit removed, we are ready to install the new brake light. Begin by orienting the light in the correct direction and fish the electrical connector through the gap from which the old one was routed, as shown:






Once the plug is routed correct, you will need to install the new light assembly, making sure the three bolts are aligned to their respective holes and that once flush, the seal on the light housing is seated properly on the trunk lip.

Next, you will need to reinstall each spring and nut, taking note that the springs largest end (largest in diameter) will rest closest to the brake light itself (away from the securing nut). I'd recommend beginning with the middle bolt and then reinstalled the outside two, making sure to only secure the nuts and not actually fully tighten them down before the others are installed and lightly tightened.

This part can be tricky, more so on the two driver side bolts, but take your time and you'll get the springs on there and nut started.

The torque for these three nuts is listed as 2.5 NM, but I simply hand tightened them. Take care not to overly tighten them or you will be back to a cracked housing after some rough road use.







Once you are happy with the tightness of the nuts securing the housing on, reconnect the electrical connection, place the Emergency Trunk Release handle back in place and screw the two phillips head screws into place....done.

Before and After shots:


WHY CAN'T SEE THE PHOTO IMAGES????? All I am seeing is the box in the attachment where the image should be!!!!
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Last edited by StarFireD; 12-30-2015 at 10:52 PM.. Reason: WHY CAN'T SEE THE PHOTO IMAGES?????
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      01-05-2017, 06:45 AM   #25
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I have the same problem, cracked on the upper PS top corner. Since I recently purchased my 06Z4MR I took it to the local stealership in St Pete, I went to the part dept to get an idea of what I could still get. I actually had the parts guy walk out to my car and look things over. I pointed out the cracked third light. He was like " oh you'll be replacing that often "

Why is this simple lense that every car has, without any problems, designed so poorly on a $ 60K car ?

PartsGeek has several listed. Some say fit Z4 ( listed at $61)/ Some say fit MR ( the ones listed at $121 ) Are all E85's the same light ? I read earlier in this post that the M's came with clear lenses. I have red, which I think would look better with my Imola red.
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      01-05-2017, 12:45 PM   #26
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Make sure you get the new, lower force, springs and get some Nylok nuts from Lowes and install them about 1/2 way.
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      01-05-2017, 07:33 PM   #27
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Yep, will do. Should I get the washers ? exact ones listed in SIB also? Not sure if I need those when using the Nylock.
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      01-05-2017, 07:53 PM   #28
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Memory is shot.

I used the washers, but I can't remember if there was anything special about them or if they were just plain M4 washers, or if it looked like they were necessary.
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      01-15-2017, 12:50 AM   #29
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3rd stop light.

It takes little effort to remove the perspex/glass. Inside is a row of red LED probably floating loose.
secure that in place from the outside with bathroom RTV rubber at intervals.
Cover the aperture with a long piece of thick-ish clear tape. Add a little black or red smoke. Use a knife to get the shape.

("smoke" comes from light window tint material, free from cut-offs at your local.)

Alternativel

Tape up the aperture and knife the tape to shape. Remove tape and stick it on suitable perspex. Cut that to shape.

Lightly "smoke" the perspex and stick it in place with RTV.. The LEDs are now soft mounted and there's no more screws, springs, leaks or cracks.

The "look" is as professional as you make it.
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      01-17-2017, 05:35 PM   #30
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thanks

interesting alternative
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      02-18-2017, 08:43 PM   #31
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Can someone please tell me is the Z4 and the Z4MR the exact same third brake light ?
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      03-15-2017, 09:22 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJZ4MR View Post
Can someone please tell me is the Z4 and the Z4MR the exact same third brake light ?
Same yes, only difference is the lense color. (Z4MR is clear, non M Z4R is red). They both fit and it's an easy plug and play swap.
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      03-19-2017, 05:40 AM   #33
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Thanks for clearing this up. I like the red matching my Imola Red car...upon further inspection it appears previous owner used some sort of glue/sealant around the edges of light, so it's going to take some careful scapeing away of material before install. Now just need to decide on red/clear. Stealership quoted me $ 76.26 for the clear, but $ 130 for the red...figures I like the red better
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      03-20-2017, 04:01 PM   #34
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LOL same here, I like the red one which was about $100 when I bought it online a couple of years ago. Don't go to the dealer. I've seen it way cheaper than $130 online. try ECStuning.com.
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      03-20-2017, 07:01 PM   #35
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will do, thanks
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      06-14-2020, 02:19 PM   #36
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just replaced my clear light. if anyone wants one for a project, my old clear light is available, with the signature left corner cracked section of course.

$20 to cover shipping, will partial refund if shipping costs less than that. Or you can pick it up from me in Anaheim for free.
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