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      02-11-2019, 12:55 PM   #67
Michael9218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
Where do you get this value for a minimum temp?
My context is on track. For driving on the street, having moisture build up in your oil isn't as much an issue. Under high load, as in at the track, moisture in your oil can be a bearing killer. At the very least, you want your oil to be hot enough to boil out moisture. Call Redline tech support and they'll explain this to you. They have no problem with their oil being run at 300 F, but caution not to run hard under 212 F.

Too often you see people brag about the big oil cooler they installed and how proud they are that their oil now stays cool on track. This is bad. On cold days, I tape off airflow to my oil cooler.
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      02-16-2019, 05:10 AM   #68
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I hear you, but id like mine to run a /little/cooler than it is atm. 236 C at my last outing, (hard run day at the track PB run this day too, so pretty darn happy with that) while my water temp stays within spec.
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      02-16-2019, 10:29 AM   #69
Michael9218
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Hopefully you meant to type 136c.

Even with that, 136 isn't terrible (275f). Maybe shoot for 130c.
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      02-16-2019, 02:15 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael9218 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
Where do you get this value for a minimum temp?
My context is on track. For driving on the street, having moisture build up in your oil isn't as much an issue. Under high load, as in at the track, moisture in your oil can be a bearing killer. At the very least, you want your oil to be hot enough to boil out moisture. Call Redline tech support and they'll explain this to you. They have no problem with their oil being run at 300 F, but caution not to run hard under 212 F.

Too often you see people brag about the big oil cooler they installed and how proud they are that their oil now stays cool on track. This is bad. On cold days, I tape off airflow to my oil cooler.
My context in this thread was for track use in a supercharged S54 based on real world data logged experience lol. The stock cooling sure is not up to the task in a southern climate with a stock motor during hard track use much less making 500 hp . The viscosity for this application as temps approach 300 F is certainly not adequate no matter what oil you use . Also the BMW temp gauge is not the actual oil temp it's an calculated value , direct measurement showed a much higher temp on track, unfortunately this has been true on every bmw I've owned even a newer F series M6 . As an aside I've owned plenty of cars that are more track oriented stock and do not run 212 on the street and oil analysis has never shown water .... my V10 in the R8 runs 190's -200 after a 4 hour interstate drive in the summer . Your concerns of water and deposits are overblown in my opinion unless we are talking 180's peak oil temp . I ended up rebuilding the S54 to use a widened crank journal and wider bearings ala Lang racing to solve the problem of the narrow bearing and track oiling . Then used Motul 300 V 15/50 with great success problem solved for 20k track miles .
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      Yesterday, 08:51 AM   #71
Michael9218
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This article provides a good explanation for you on why you should run oil over 212f and also supports the premise that running synthetic oil over 300f is acceptable.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/

Highlights:
For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 220 degrees F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. For every pound of fuel burned in an engine, the combustion process also generates a pound of water! If engine sump temperatures rarely exceed 212 degrees (water’s boiling point), the water will mix with sulfur (another combustion by-product) and create acids that can eventually damage bearings.

As for ultimate power potential, the general consensus among most racers is that hot oil and cool water make more power in most engines. Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees. Even on a short-duration, drag-only combo where oil is frequently changed, I would not want to routinely see under-200-degree oil temps.

A full-synthetic oil will withstand sump temperatures in excess of 300 degrees, and for hard-core professional racing, some oval-track race teams are experimenting with ultra-thin, specially formulated, race-only synthetics operating at 350 degrees or even higher.
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