FCAB Install: need help

[Reborn_]

Are there any tips/tricks to getting the oem FCAB back on the control arm?

I ready the few threads here so I marked the control arm prior to removal of the old FCAB. Got the old one off with a tie rod puller, but can't seem to macguyver anything together to get the new one on. Auto parts store rentals was no help either. I'm at the point of basically buying some slender brackets (and maybe machining or threading as needed) and LONG bolts to get it on. Does anyone have any quicker/easier tips? I thought with some lube and elbow grease I could get it into position, but I was very wrong lol.

[Reborn_]

Going to try a band clamp. https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthr...hing+fcab+tool

Just curious why not use lubricant? I already sprayed some...

Will also try soap.

[Michael9218]

I believe the theory is that you want the arm to bind in the bushing when done. Soap and mineral spirits dry out and stop lubricating. Oils and proper lubricants do not.

[Reborn_]

Originally Posted by Michael9218

I believe the theory is that you want the arm to bind in the bushing when done. Soap and mineral spirits dry out and stop lubricating. Oils and proper lubricants do not.

Yea, that makes sense. I'll clean out the lube and use dish soap. Haven't gotten around to trying it - hoping the hose clamp trick works.

[Reborn_]

Hose clamp worked like a charm with a 7.2V impact. Now I'm struggling with what should be the hard part, aligning the lollipop back to its mount points. I was able to get one bolt partially threaded, can't get the second. I can hit the bolt that is partially threaded with the air impact in hopes of forcing the lollipop to align, but I'm scared of stripping the threads instead. Can anyone provide their opinion (I'm kind of hoping everyone had to do it that way to alleviate my concern).

[Reborn_]

Finished up. I wrestled the control arm/fcab around until I was able to get both bolts threaded on. I then turned each one 3/4 turn at a time to align the lollipop. Felt way more comfortable using the threads to align the lollipop when both bolts were able to be used. To minimize shear on the threads, I sprayed wd40 on the bolt threads and used dish soap on both mating sides of the bushing. The other side took 10 minutes, lined up perfectly first shot. Go figure.

Some notes for those looking to do this quick/on the cheap. To get the bushing off the control arm, I used a 2 arm puller like the largest one shown below. The hose clamp size needed to get the bushing back on the control arm is a 5"-7" hose clamp.

[Steeler]

The bolt misalignment may be a sign of the need for a front wheel alignment, but you were going to do that anyways, right!

[Reborn_]

Yes sir! I swapped shocks and springs prior to the FCABs so alignment is next.

[The HACK]

I’ve done this enough times on the older front strut designs that the Z4s still use, and EVERY TIME it takes some finangling to get the bolt holes lined up.

I don’t know if you tried this, but what usually works for me is to put a floor jack underneath the kingpin assembly, and apply light pressure. I don’t know why, but it worked every time for me. Just enough to compress the springs by maybe 1/2”, then the lollipop lines right up. Doesn’t take much, and if you have a good floor jack with a true deadman’s handle, you can move the kingpin up and down a quarter inch at a time and it’ll magically line up.

Oh make sure the sway bars are disconnected. I made that mistake once and couldn’t figure out why one side goes in so easy and the other was such a struggle.

[Reborn_]

Originally Posted by The HACK

I’ve done this enough times on the older front strut designs that the Z4s still use, and EVERY TIME it takes some finangling to get the bolt holes lined up.

I don’t know if you tried this, but what usually works for me is to put a floor jack underneath the kingpin assembly, and apply light pressure. I don’t know why, but it worked every time for me. Just enough to compress the springs by maybe 1/2”, then the lollipop lines right up. Doesn’t take much, and if you have a good floor jack with a true deadman’s handle, you can move the kingpin up and down a quarter inch at a time and it’ll magically line up.

Oh make sure the sway bars are disconnected. I made that mistake once and couldn’t figure out why one side goes in so easy and the other was such a struggle.

I did try using a jack (I read your thread and comments in other threads on this topic). Where I fell short, though, was I did not compress the spring - I simply used the jack to pivot the control arm up into "position" - however, I ultimately did not use a jack to get it done because it also reduced the freedom and range of motion of the control arm compared to no jack. I also did not disconnect the sway - that did not occur to me, but makes perfect sense.