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02-11-2019, 11:55 AM | #67 |
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My context is on track. For driving on the street, having moisture build up in your oil isn't as much an issue. Under high load, as in at the track, moisture in your oil can be a bearing killer. At the very least, you want your oil to be hot enough to boil out moisture. Call Redline tech support and they'll explain this to you. They have no problem with their oil being run at 300 F, but caution not to run hard under 212 F.
Too often you see people brag about the big oil cooler they installed and how proud they are that their oil now stays cool on track. This is bad. On cold days, I tape off airflow to my oil cooler. |
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02-16-2019, 04:10 AM | #68 |
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I hear you, but id like mine to run a /little/cooler than it is atm. 236 C at my last outing, (hard run day at the track PB run this day too, so pretty darn happy with that) while my water temp stays within spec.
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02-16-2019, 01:15 PM | #70 | |
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02-17-2019, 07:51 AM | #71 |
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This article provides a good explanation for you on why you should run oil over 212f and also supports the premise that running synthetic oil over 300f is acceptable.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/engine-oil-temperature/ Highlights: For a dual-purpose car, engine oil needs to be at least 220 degrees F to burn off all the deposits and accumulated water vapor. For every pound of fuel burned in an engine, the combustion process also generates a pound of water! If engine sump temperatures rarely exceed 212 degrees (water’s boiling point), the water will mix with sulfur (another combustion by-product) and create acids that can eventually damage bearings. As for ultimate power potential, the general consensus among most racers is that hot oil and cool water make more power in most engines. Cold engine oil causes excessive frictional drag on the bearings and cylinder walls. A quality conventional motor oil will tolerate oil sump temperatures of up to 250 degrees, but starts breaking down over 275 degrees. The traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees. Even on a short-duration, drag-only combo where oil is frequently changed, I would not want to routinely see under-200-degree oil temps. A full-synthetic oil will withstand sump temperatures in excess of 300 degrees, and for hard-core professional racing, some oval-track race teams are experimenting with ultra-thin, specially formulated, race-only synthetics operating at 350 degrees or even higher. |
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04-12-2019, 01:17 PM | #72 | |
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Not saying the temperatures in the article are wrong just questioning how they determined these numbers. Last, not sure where the oil temperature is reading but if the pan I would expect this is the lowest temperature of the system and the oil with water in it is seeing a higher temperature than this as it circulates (guess). I don't know what deposits are burning at 220F as this is pretty low for a solid to burn.
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04-15-2019, 05:47 PM | #73 | |
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Your oil is at it's highest temp in the pan, not lowest. The oil drops into the pan after servicing the bearings. From there the pump sucks it up, sends it out through the cooler and then back into the motor to the bearings. |
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04-16-2019, 08:07 AM | #74 | |
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The highest temperature is where the heat is produced, not in the pan. I think the oil at the piston rings it is much hotter than in the pan.
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04-16-2019, 06:44 PM | #75 | |
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Oh, and where does that oil go after getting heated by the cylinder walls? Into the pan where your oil temp sensor is. Maybe I should clarify for you since you seem to be very literal. The oil in the pan is the hottest WHERE IT CAN BE MEASURED. |
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04-17-2019, 08:12 AM | #76 | |||
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Aircraft engine but the theory is the same, you don't have to get the gauge to 220 for the oil to see 220 https://generalaviationnews.com/2018...rature-engine/ Quote:
And this - Quote:
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04-17-2019, 08:53 AM | #77 | |
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Another chart showing bearing temp far greater than pan temp.
http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...tempguide.html Quote:
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04-19-2019, 07:50 PM | #78 | ||
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04-24-2019, 10:22 AM | #79 | |
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