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      07-17-2018, 10:22 PM   #23
Z4G
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Update: 2 years later...the dealer said they would replace the actuator before checking other areas. So, I replaced the latch/actuator one-piece assembly, $200. Not the problem. Lubricant will require less electricity...so a change may seem helpful....but true problem was GM5. I took the top off of the relay, sanded with 600 grit auto sandpaper and that was it...dirty contacts.

Worked great. I wouldn't use a Dremel tool only because the plastic is quite soft, you can slice through it with a utility knife, quite thin. Boy, you really need to stay close to the lid so you don't hit all that flexible workings in there, quite a full relay box, and metal is close to sides. Looking at the two relays, with the plug connectors at the top, the top relay was my culprit for unlocking the passenger door and center console. Within that relay, both points are active when locking and the bottom one instrumental for unlocking. Initially I took notice that they are normally making contact with the outer top and bottom contacts, and triggering makes them contract towards the inner contacts. I pushed them closer at one point, did some electrical cleaning, then tried before final install and about jammed the passenger door so returned to normal gap, slightly less than an exacto razor thickness. Of course, I was only adjusting the inner tab, since the outer points are normally together anyways and I wouldn't want to mess with that more fragile metal tabs. Now I know what people are talking about with the door unable to open, even with manual inside latch, outside latch, and button appears halfway up and down...it will push down, then inside handle will raise but not fully, and door never unlock. Yikes! All electro-mechanical issue, but not with the door latch. So, I unhooked the battery and the door worked properly...back to the drawing board. I then used 600 grit automotive paper which was mild enough and thin enough to work with, folded once, scissor-cut to a 1/8" width. Presto, it worked. History: The center and passenger door were both fading and a new actuator in the center console worked for 6 months. The passenger unlock would work intermittently for the past 7 years of ownership but finally stopped altogether this year, minor click noise. I actually thought the driver door was about to start giving me trouble one hot afternoon. So, I replaced the passenger actuator/latch assembly and absolutely no improvement, $200 part last week. I had read about GM5 and sending it away, or buy new for 5-600 plus dealer has to program, but was hoping to avoid that. Finally, I ran across another post and another about cleaning the points/contacts. I used some postal tape to keep the shaved covers back on...for future access.

Now, if the internet could always be right for everything you read.
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      09-17-2018, 03:30 AM   #24
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power locks are slow

Need information why my 2003 BMW Z$ power locks are slow and not responsive to remote key operation or turning key in lock.
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