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12-04-2016, 07:02 PM | #45 | |
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Clutch line reconnects with no other hardware required.
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12-06-2016, 02:23 AM | #46 |
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Second that. Don't waste money on buying a new one. Just remove it! I did this about a month ago and it made a HUGE difference!!!!!
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12-06-2016, 07:25 AM | #47 |
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03-26-2017, 07:01 PM | #48 |
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CDV Finally OUT !
I bought my 06 Z4MR 4 months ago. I had never heard of a CDV before, but it was one of the first things I saw after joining this site. So, first thing was to get an oil change, Which my indi charges $ 84 to do. Decided at that price VS $ 280 at the Stealership, seemed reasonable. I researched doing it myself and thought it made sense to have the indi do oil/CDV out at the same time. I'm lift challenged at this time. So I explain that I want this out, how it's done and why I want it removed, set the appointment, take it in, get the call to pick up car ( I can walk there in 10 mins ) And I get told that they were not wanting to take it out, so they didn't. I was pissed. He picked up on this and said " we'll take it out next time your in " There was almost no next time. He also told me my CPV was leaking and it should be addressed soon. So along with VT engine mounts/RE Tranny mounts I had the work done a few days ago. OMG ! What a difference ! My weekend play car has been for the last 13 years my 1972 240 Z with a 3.1 Stroker ( it's for sale ) Before that, 72 Mach One Fastback with an inline 4 speed Hurst Shifter. I know clutches. I drive spiritedly often. If you just cruise in your car, shift slow and methodically and don't jump off at red lights, you probably are fine leaving it in. For the last 4 months I've been unsure of every takeoff, every 1st-2nd shift. Oh, I got better. No more snapping peoples necks, jerking shifts. But I've been hating the shifting for 4 months. Cursing my indie for not doing what I asked to be done to begin with. He's NEVER had a Z4M in his shop. Anyway, for the last few days I'm SO HAPPY ! Car shifts correct. Smooth every time. Of coarse the other improvements/mods done at the same time I'm sure helped too. I think with all of the changes the car is putting all the torque to the wheels. But I'm now having to get used to it. I'm thinking " oh yeah, I don't have to move the shifter, one thousand one...and...let up on clutch" This is an old thread, but if you have any doubts...TAKE IT OUT-DIRECT LINE IN !
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03-27-2017, 10:57 AM | #49 |
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good info in this thread. trying to get my one post to put up a WTB stock intake thread!
If anyone has one sitting around, send me a message. Also willing to trade for an aFe unit. |
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03-27-2017, 11:24 AM | #50 |
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You guys with the M cars are lucky! On my 3.0si the hose comes up about an 1/8" short of being able to reach to just connect it, so you have to drill out the guts of the CDV and put the CDV body back in.
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03-27-2017, 12:05 PM | #51 |
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I know they make modified ones, that have been made that way, not drilled. I came across some info somewhere that talked about the risks of drilling. Can't recall where I saw the moded valves, as I knew that direct line in was my solution. Wonder if you could just get a longer hydraulic line, with the proper fittings on each end. I'm sure some company makes a hose 1" longer than what you have.
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03-27-2017, 01:16 PM | #52 |
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Check your PM, I'm willing to trade!
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03-27-2017, 03:40 PM | #53 |
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on my M, i popped the restrictor out and put cdv back in, and it started dripping fluid(instantly), i removed it completely, and its been fine since.
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03-27-2017, 03:53 PM | #54 | |
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According to bmw ETK the 3.0si and the pre-fl 3.0i (what I have) have exactly the same clutch hose-pipe assembly, and on my car the cdv can be removed no problem whatsoever. Hose and pipe mate perfectly. room to spare. Z4m seems to use a different pipe (different slave cylinder pipe routing) but they come out at the same bracket and on the other side sits again the same hose. So regarding cdv removal its all the same I think.
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03-27-2017, 07:43 PM | #55 | |
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03-27-2017, 08:55 PM | #56 |
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Loving this car, big grin everytime I take the car cover off the car cover ( yep 2 ) Now the shifting is what I expect in a performance BMW.
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03-28-2017, 09:02 AM | #57 |
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It's been weird from BMW over the years...
1993 318is -- no CDV (sold) 1994 325ic 'vert -- no CDV (sold) 2000 Z3 2.3 (2.5L) -- no CDV 2002 330i -- had CDV..... removed it, no modded piece inserted 2006 Z4M -- had CDV .... removed it , added modded CDV (sold) 2013 e92 M3 -- no CDV
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03-28-2017, 10:14 AM | #58 |
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I also have had a 84 and 86.5 Supra, and 2 Datsun 240 Z's. Love the long nose, short rear "wedge" shape, while I was searching roadsters I drove a TR8 twice, but it takes some major engine mods to get that thing up to speed. Jag Etype from the 60/70 has been a desired car of mine since the 80"s, probably could of paid a reasonable price for one back then. V12 !
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03-29-2017, 11:04 PM | #59 |
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Well...add me to the list of CDV-less after a loooooooong hold out. Somehow, JJ's posts and revival of this thread just pushed me over to "Just DO IT". Got my brake fluid flushed this morning and told my indy to take out the CDV while they're at it. Loving the delete thus far
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03-30-2017, 12:58 PM | #60 |
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XMetal...you've been on this site for 7 years and JUST did it !? I'm glad I helped you take the plunge. I'ts the best "free" mod any Z4M owner can do IMO.
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03-30-2017, 01:48 PM | #61 |
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Yeah...I know I'm a super slow adopter. Maybe I'm just stubborn thinking I could "master a variable", as someone had previously said. In the back of my mind, I'd always thought there must be a reason for those ///M division guys to put in this cost adder or they would not had done it otherwise. All that is out the windows now since I took the plunge
It's not a completely "free" mod as I had to pay 0.5 hour worth of labor for them to take it out and bleed it with their "special" slave cylinder tool. |
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03-30-2017, 02:02 PM | #62 |
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Mine did it by clamping and keeping the hose high, no bleeding needed. How do you like the feel ? I haven't had much seat time since the mods...working is interfering with my fun, then GF ( live in ) got real sick this last weekend, so I had to play nurse. This weekend is supposed to be perfect for the vert. Sunny 80* ! I'm wondering how the heat of of the impending Summer will effect my enjoyment. I'm right between St Pete and Clearwater on the coast. Spring break beach driving has some real nice "views" lately. I'll probably do more night/early AM driving once it really gets hot
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03-30-2017, 02:51 PM | #63 |
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My indy is very meticulous. He wanted to bleed the slave cylinder properly so there is no if and or buts about the clutch pedal feel afterward - I won't argue with that. I haven't had much seat time in mine either since a few short drives yesterday, but the difference could be felt immediately. The engagement point is much more precise. I don't have to concentrate too much on releasing the latter half the clutch to be smooth anymore. Hope to get more seat time this weekend, if other activities doesn't get too much in the way.
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03-30-2017, 04:43 PM | #65 |
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Do you guys have a Clutch Stop ? For $10 it's a great mod. I'm going to get around figuring how to move the magnetic mechanism, so I can go with a bit less travel AND be able to start the car....I feel like I could still get 3/4 of an inch or so less travel. I actually would like EVERY BIT of fluid in the car, flushed and refilled. Didn't know there was a "special" slave tool needed. Diff/Tranny with Dimple magnetic plugs is in my " SOON TO DO" list
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03-30-2017, 10:59 PM | #66 |
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I did the ebay clutch stop as soon as I heard about it. I set mine about a 1/4 inch from the relay switch trigger, which leaves about 3/4 of an inch of travel (from the stop) before the clutch engage. This left enough margin to safely start everytime - never had a starting issue.
Here's a home made slave cylinder bleed tool => http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=414188 The BMW "special" tool that I saw my indy use looked similar, but easier to operate. |
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